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So excited for this whole build and keeping a mental total on budget and DAMN, but I guess it's cheaper then a used car nowadays. Can't wait to see how the alternator turns out I have the parts in checkout waiting to buy. Any more pics of the build I want to spend my money through your ups guy.

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07 AWD 3SS
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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
this is out of control tbh, but I'm like eff it, I've always wanted to have an overly complex bells and whistles sunday driver, so here it is lol. ya I'm actually going to grab another TBSS alt from a yard, I don't like the bearings and brush contacts on mine, they're shot tbh. still work, but shot. the only other thing i gotta buy is the 10% over kit, so that's the last major thing before I check my bank account after next payday lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
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Not sure about leaving the diff bolts raw but it looks ok. I bought one of the blem 14SF covers from PML, saved 50 bucks ooohh how economical haha. These ‘whiteline’ endlinks for the rear feel like they’re gonna break but Imll give them a shot, prolly throw those on today on the rear- I have new GM ones for the front on the shelf, figure I’ll use those for now since I have them etc, they’ll probably go pretty quick having the front at 31.xx” or so but nbd
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Mocking up the big rad and fans, i might need to trim some edges but decent so far. I like the snug shroud fit. Bought these from x-rpm years ago. I bent the PS cooler lines about 1” to clear. Gonna paint the shroud dark gray to match the headers.
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2007 RWD TVS 1900, E85, TL headers,
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You will probably have better luck with the interchiller than I did. Last time I spoke to Dave he told me it took much longer than expected to get the ac lines and he now has 3 tbss kits on order. If yours is one of those 3 kits then yours should ship out same time as mine which I expect any day now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Ya, I hope we both get ours on time (on time for me, ASAP for you). He mentioned 'things are going to the welder today' lol
naw I'll give him a buzz on wed to say hi n stuff. and see about the welder LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I think it’ll be cool, its hard to tell without having everything assembled but ya, hood #2 with the heat extractor is cool, i like it. Clearances underneath will be tight but eh
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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
also picked up some NGK TR7IXs and some ACD 41-104s (stock blown ZR1 plugs), I think the consensus it that for an upped boost/built scenario the TR7IXs are good, but the 41-104s are good for a 'stock' maggie install, so we'll see how that goes. Try out the TR7s at thirty or thirty five thou first and see how everything looks/feels.

I need to get a new wiper cowl, it really DOESN'T bring the room together bein all faded. tried all the products, nothing works, eh just get a new one and complain about the price later. gonna be eating ramen every day and canned veggies after this build uggh. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
Im workin on it lol. What do you have planned for yours? Next immediate things are repairing the stepper motors (voltage busted, other ones are probably dying) in the cluster, removing the LED for stabilitrak because i turn it off but prefer not to see the warning light on. Annoying haha. Then replace the fuse bix which came in today, 2007 V8 specific 25790682.
Kinda slow around here until stuff gets back for now, I’m not putting anything back together until the trans and longblock are mated together for max room. Pickup a few fittings for the FP gauge and boost gauge and a spare cluster connector for the bench repair job
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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Also, this is what i’m lookin at for engine specs, maybe a tad high on comp but thoughts/opinions from all?
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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
I also fluidfilmed the whole underside, that was messy but it really cleaned it up. POR15’d some areas but ya, glad thats done
 

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Ive had a TVS2650 hot rod kit sitting in wait for over a year now still collecting supporting parts... one day :cool:

Also, this is what i’m lookin at for engine specs, maybe a tad high on comp but thoughts/opinions from all?
Ive run 8.7 and 8.8:1 DCR on my past two ls H/C builds, running 93 pump on stock displacement at sea level. I know thats a bit higher than most like but its worked for me. Im a fan of cometic 0.040" gaskets, then have the heads shaved to hit target compression for good quench, if thats still an option for you.

Funny you mention the fluidfilm, I just watched the ProjectFarm YT comparison on that last night. From what I understood, thats not a permanent coating like paint right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 · (Edited)
TVS2650? moses' sandals, that's a lotta ummpf! That is gonna be serious... Ya I haven't really nailed anything down with the engine guy (great dude btw in vegas there, shout out lol), mostly just talking about targeted use, etc. We'll nail everything down and start ordering stuff once the block is all measured and stuff, nbd
I've read a lot about the cometics, I did buy some LS9s the other week but we'll see how things shake out. You like them to keep that nice 35-40 thou quench and not have theslightly oversized bore?
Dude I love this fluidfilm stuff, I'm just putting it everywhere that is metal and spending time wiping it in, gettin all the shmegma off the frame in areas that don't have obvious rust (really not too many areas need attention, so that's nice). Ya but to my understanding, you spray it on periodically, say once a year etc. I'm not gonna say it prevents rust or instantly removes it showing bare metal, but on stuff like the frame, knuckles, shock bolts/shock bodies, basically everything I feel better knowing at least there is something there to at least slow things down. Definitely a periodic thing, I really don't have an issue with having to do it once a year or whatever. To really POR 15 it for real that's like frame off resto, sarge aint doin that but I like this fluid film stuff A LOT for anything metal or anything with exposed threads/fastener heads. Like the axle tubes in the rear, not rusty at all, not really a candidate for POR15 but perfect for a good fluidfilm job. brake dust shields, slight surface rust- perfect for fluid film to clean it up and protect it. actual rust on some spots on the frame, that's a flap disc POR prep/etch/coat thing obv
 

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Yes, I like to target ~0.035" quench (depending on OOTH piston clearance). Ive measured 0.005" and 0.006" OOTH for both of my personal combos, which was right there with the avg 0.006" most others have measured. You can get the cometics in 4.030" bore, which again improves the quench and increases your posted CR calcs from the above 4.125". Maybe I missed it but did you land on the TFS 225s?

Id love to hear follow up results on the fluid film once you have the truck back on the road
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 · (Edited)
I think I entered the 4.125 in error, ls9 gaskets are 4.1 bore. Im gonna take a closer look at cometics to be honest! I believe my block is next in line, I’ll post up the info as it comes it about everything.!
The TFS heads didnt work out very well, they’re unobtanium until probably august/september. Crazy lead times. I went with a PNP/larger valve setup on my 243s, so we’ll see how that works out.

Gonna go grab some of the trim/exterior black paint and hose the wiper cowl down. Thanks for mentioning that btw, should work out well
 
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