Trans is getting refreshed, block goes out monday, front diff is being rebuilt.
Fuel pump assy is on the way, little things like ARP hardware is on the way, all the little things etc.
Im thinking of ordering at hi amp stator and beefier rectifier for the alternator, I don’t think the stock one will keep up at idle for all the crap goin on-
1-spal dual fans (prolly 70 amps for the pair)
2-spal trans cooler fan(prolly 20 amps)
3-intercooler pump (15 amp fuse)
Plus the rest of the truck…
anyway, yah. Overall, I’m not goin for what they deem as ‘max effort’ or whatever, more low and mid range. The big concern is heat mitigation,100 plus with humidity is gonna be brutal, so I gotta handle that with the right compression and make life as easy as I can for the compressor. Probably gonna have to do some meth, thats cool. I wanna get this thing running when temps are ‘down’ for the next 2 months to see how it runs. The boost will be low, I’m ok with that in the beginning. Im not goin huge on the cam (pcm tempest 218/230 590/608 116 IIRC), so we’ll see how that works out with the parts combo.
ya so goin with the LS2 C6 TB, gotta change the scalar in the tune to 4725.0 iirc,that should help a tiny bit. That TB just looks so much better right, plus the whole flutter boost thing.
The headers and non catted Y arr being coated by JH (offroad 2000 coating) Ceramic Header & Exhaust Coatings for Off-road Vehicles | Jet-Hot — Jet-Hot and should be back in a few weeks. Went with that coating mainly because of durability, I think the main issue with the coating on the last set was the knuckleheads I paid to install the headers just scraped the sh!t out of them and that combined with moisture, heat, salt, etc etc.
Ya, the intercooler tank, prolly gonna need to do that. I forgot about that tank, thank you- pump? The bosch one that comes in the maggie kit. Is there a better one?
I did ping kaminari about those excellent hoods, we’ll see on that, I will say that Scott’s hood is the only one that looks good on the TBSS imho. The factory GM styling and lines are so good, I really want to preserve this look but I do think the Scott hood looks good and does kinda work with the gm lines.!
I mean, that is a good looking vehicle, best looking not overdone sleeper ish GM ever made imo
As far as tires, prolly 275/40s. I do like the 315s on 20x10 tho, absolutely badass. I’m gonna strip and polish the stockers for now, I’m not sure about the prolly politburo made wheels material being the same qual as GM oem aluminum, but eh, ya I’m thinkin about it
What did you find to rebuild the alternator to put out more amps? I have only seen high dollar complete alternators for these trucks. I had a local alternator rebuild shop double the output on my Honda (dual fuel pumps, electric fan, lots of electronics) it worked great above 2500rpm but I would hear everything slow down at idle not fun for the street.
Sounds like you have the headers sorted out. A Doug's guilloutine style E-cut out would be a nice addition if you want to scare the neighbor kids / at the track.
There might be some gains left on the table with the smaller TB. I know that alot of people (CTVS owners) have seen better performance with the 102mm+ tb on the positive displacement blowers like the TVS 1900/2300/2650.
I bought a used Nick Williams 102mm from a local for my twin turbo CTSV build, but after talking to several turbo tuners they recommended staying smallish TB with the turbos. Apparently pushing the air into the smaller diameter helps with turbos ather than pulling the air in on the roots / PD blowers. So I stayed with the port matched LS7 TB on the LS3 intake.
The LS9 and Varimax intercooler pumps are a solid cost concious upgrades. You can be a baller if you went with an expansion tank and a reprogrammed Steward EMP pump or a badass CWA400 pump. Just be careful with your electrical system with the high powered pumps as they ran my battery down EXTREMELY fast with just the key on and not running / on a charger.
Yes the 20x10 rears with 315s are NICE. MT Streets is what I ran on the street. I swapped out to 16" regular trailblazer rims with M&H 275 DRs at the track. They hooked amazing with 18psi.
That red with carbon looks good. I actually wanted a red tbss but couldnt find one way back…. Nice bruh! MT streets, huh? Cool, ok. I’ll check those out
alternator- ya, I’m really flying by the seat of my pants on that and definitely not an expert on the intricacies of the tbss charging system- the whole load sensing/smart charging side, I need to research more on that. Then theres the AD244 whichreplaced the cs130, right, then theres the DR44/G, which parts are compatible with what system etc.
the stator is here AD244-250ST AD244 & DR44G Series 250 Amp High Output Stator
I havent found an HD rectifier yet, but those are easy I think. Soldering is nbd, have that covered but ya I still need to research some stuff on the alt situation, I know there are options like DC power and mechman etc (have a dc power on my 05 LQ9 Tahoe DD) so ya there’sthat option, but I wanna try out this 8 rib clutch pulley first. Idk its a journey, ya know
Im gonna see if i can damage this o ring with the pcm pickup. A little fluid film lubricating everything. I have 3 of each color, so i figure lets test out this process and look it after i pull the tube back out after installing it like a knucklehead to see if i can break it etc
Tbss alt top, 07 up gmt900 KW1 on bottom. Note case size diff and winding size diff. Isnt the tbss alt rated to 145 like the KW1 gmt800/900? Idk. The kW1 alt is from the yard, had a bent post but w/e -edit ya that's a 160 amp KW1 GMT800/900 alt, not what I said earlier about being a KG3. makes sense that the winding is mo fatter for 160 amp vs 145, but that seems like a big diff for 15 amps but w/e
ya tbss 145, of thats what i remember and what it should be. Ok then
I think if i get that hi amp stator and HD rectifier for a gmt800/900 and use the back half with the gmt800 longer bolts of the gmt800/900 alt case I should be good to. The rectifier and voltage reg look identical to the tbss alt. Then I can keep 8 rib clutch pulley (if that even works, it should i bet), have an hi amp alt all lookin factory.
shit you know what, i bet the rotors are diff GDMMIT
-edit or just upgrade a gmt800/900 alt and put the 8 rib pulley on it. Thats probably what im gonna do. Shafts look same same
in addition to the 250 amp stator. New 2 pin regulator also.
so basically around 375 bucks for an 8 rib clutch 250 amp alternator. Plus 80 amp diodes vs 50 on the dc power one (not knocking, just sayin) we’ll see how it works out nbd. Ok done for today
// everything below is speculation until tested //
so all in all, you could tentatively take a TBSS alt and shitcan it because it sucks (j/k it doesn't suck) BUT, get a KW1 160 amp alternator from an 800/900 w/ 2 pin voltage reg and do the following to get a 250 amp alt and an 8 rib clutch. These alts are pretty much on everything 05 and up when GM went electric fans for 800/900s.
1-mark clock marks on KW1 alt for front/back halves
2-remove pulley with 24mm impact 1/2 drive weeeee
3- crack it in half by removing the 4 bolts holding the two case halves (i think E8 torx, the female torx), slight taps with a brass drift on opposite sides, nbd
4- remove plastic shell, remove the voltage regulator from the rear half by de-soldering the one solder connection and some E5 torx bolts iirc, remove the standoff and threaded post, the post is splined and pressed into the aluminum rectifier base, the standoff that surrounds the threaded post is also pressed onto the post's splines that protrude through the rectifier, nbd ball peen and pliers. sh!tcan the old stator/rectifier assy
5- grab that HD rectifier part for 75 bucks, grab the 250 amp stator for 150 bucks, copy your clock mark onto the new HD rectifier's aluminum rear body
6-remove standoff/post from new rectifier (maybe it screws on with the new one, not sure yet) install old voltage reg to new HD rectifier (E5 torx), solder then install that one solder joint, re-install post and standoff to rectifier base you just removed from the new rectiifer assy in order to install the old KW1 voltage reg
7- install HD rectifier assy to 250 amp stator, crimp and solder three winding leads from stator to rectifier through the rectifier base, make sure the brushes are good on the two copper pads on the shaft
8-mate two case halves together, check your clock marks, install case bolts (E8 torx i think) using opposite side tightening, little bit at a time etc, make sure it spins nice like before, install rear plastic shell
9- install 8 rib clutch pulley from australia using special tool to the same depth (distance from case w/feeler gauge) as before (it might just bottom out, not sure, prolly does just bottom out) hopefully , make sure it spins freely with no weirdness (rough spot, slow spot, etc)
10-install on truck
btw this is just a checklist for me, once the parts come in (could be a while with that damn pulley from down under) I'll slap it on the tahoe since its an 05 and has the 2 pin smart alternator system like the tbss. The rotors could in fact be different, I'm not sure yet but I'll crack the tbss alt in half tomorrow night to see if its the same size as the KW1 GMT 800/900 alt, I bet they're the same but we'll see. it should work or cause a massive electrical fire, I don't see any issues with this, what could POSSIBLY go wrong, wheres my beer.
// end of speculation until tested //
updated 27 Dec 11:11 CST
she'll be ok. I updated my little checklist to reflect some things I found with the rotor difference which leads to a person sh!tcanning the TBSS alt if you want to go 8 rib clutch pulley upgraded, which works for my use case- if you wanted to keep your OEM 6 rib clutch, you would just need the special tool and swap over the tbss pulley onto the KW1 alt then be good to go with the 250 amp 6 rib clutch setup tentatively
Ok so ya, the KW1 rotor is about the same, maybe SLIGHTLY bigger but it may be on a slightly longer shaft and in a diff spot, around .3 ", possibly. about 3/10" longer on the KW1- makes sense, longer bolts by 3/10 than the TBSS etc etc
The rotors are the same width, around 4.2" and same depth, around 2.2-2.3
BUT the KW1 weight almost a pound more. I think there is more copper on the rotor, obviously your eyes can play tricks on you but to me it looks like the KW1 has morecopper on it. you can't see the plastic carrier on it and the depth of the winding is the same for both. However. The distance from the top of the rotor claw to the copper winding is 50 thou LESS when measuring 3 spots along the claw on the KW1 than the TBSS alt, which says there is more wire, which matches with not being able to see the plastic on the KW1 (yellow boxes) versus being able to see it on the TBSS
as far as pulleys and shaft length on the front half, that doesn't seem to be an issue, they're the same. your eyes will play tricks on you, but they are the same length protruding from the case, around 1"
TBSS pulley to case
TBSS pulley to shaft
Ok, so that makes the TBSS shaft ~1.1"
KW1 pulley is almost flush to the end of the shaft, you can see some out of focus brown shmegma in the center, that's the shaft
KW1 pulley to case
KW1 shaft to approx case height
So ya, looks like both shafts are about an inch protruding on the front end but the KW1 on the back end is definitely bigger. waiting on parts for now, shouldn't be long ya right lol
-block just went out via freight, ooohh exciting. 3-4 weeks on that
-alt parts shipping tomorrow
-auto-cool 85 shipping tomorrow
-headers arrived at jet hot today, 3-4 weeks on that
I need to get goin on this POR 15 stuff. onward and upward arrrgh
-LPE walbro fuel pump assy shipped today
-waiting on rear spohn upper/lower control arms to ship
-aussie 8 rib pulley ships 4 Jan