And I was wrong about the pulley diameter, 3.3!
![Wheel White Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood]()
TVS2300 and a couple of other things
Been a long time, at least a few years but I'd figure why not and make a thread on the 07, which used to be my DD for about 4 years but hasn't been for the last 2, which is nice (bombing around in the 05 tahoe with an LQ9 and 65e from an esky). What isn't nice is what driving the TBSS a couple of times and I really do mean a couple of times in Virginia salt bomb land does to things, really amazing, not a big deal tho, really.
Ya so relocated from VA with no garage to AL with a 2 car garage, FINALLY
Basically I'm still kinda gettin the garage set up, but going from where the TBSS was and still is in terms of mods from NOV 2019 (last time I drove it further than around the block)
79k stock LS2
4L70E RPM Lvl 6, bought it second hand, about 85k on it now (has never missed a beat, a nice surprise)
Yank 3k stall
Volant CAI
various tunes of my work and others
Belltech shocks, not lowered
normal brake stuff
AEM WB
Kooks + catted Y pipe (need to get the uncatted one for an FI setup, evidently)
PCM Brake duct trans cooler
Aeroforce Gauge (great tool)
Going to-
TVS2300, stock pulley
PCM 4" FWI
PCM Tempest Cam (didn't want to go too crazy, but the dyno charts look good for a 218 cam imo), plus not going crazy on lift
Melling pump, all the normal stuff like pushrods and all that everyone does on these things
Bigger FI Connection Injectors
Bigger fuel pump
gauges from Speedhut (they have some that are really close to the TBSS cluster style)
FSR rad+efans
PCM trans cooler spal fan kit
PCM of NC 2 Bar SD Tune
PCM Catch can (I'm curious to see how much oil the manifold pukes)
Yella Terra Ultra LW 1.7s
LC32 crossmember
LS2 C6 TB (maybe, not sure yet, have two tho if anyone needs one. They both work fine, just remember to change the scalar in the tune etc)
As far as fluids, Amsoil 10-40 premium, Redline D6 in the trans, prolly won't change, been workin fine so far, (knock on wood)-
Things I'm still contemplating, and would look for input from the knowledge-laden folks here-
I'm concerned about the 6 rib not being sufficient seems like it only really holds for a stock ls2 plus maggie? I'm not sure exactly, probably a factor of how hard you beat on it and how well things are aligned etc etc. THoughts?
That also brings up the alternator, OEM as everyone prolly knows has a clutch- finding a shop that will upgrade the TBSS DR44(G ?) to say 185 and keep the clutch has been unfruitful, but I haven't spent an inordinate amount of time looking, just a few emails etc, nothing solid yet.
If an 8 rib is required, I assume you can just pin the other side of the crank (I believe the IW pulley setups use two dowel pins), that may sound dumb but I'm just makin sure-
Ya, its a stock short block but I read that 5-6 lbs is fine and 8lbs is knockin on deaths door, which is fair.
I'm also considering some trick flow 225 CNC heads, haven't purchased them yet, but I think if I go heads that will require an 8 rib setup. What do you think of this? Besides the 'get a forged short block'', I'm lookin at it, really on the fence, I'm not going to pulley up this hog tbh. But ya that's what people say, right lol
Some pics. Its a work in progress, I'm tryin to build the garage and take advantage of the cool weather, I need to POR 15 all this damn rust (isn't that bad tho), gotta get the headers recoated, install Atomic fab motor mounts, rebuild the entire front end (lower arms, upper arms, everything is gettin replaced).Gotta re-do the wheels, but I think I'm gonna have them professionally refinished to fix the little rash bites on em etc. Also need to buy some SS brake lines from clarksville fasteners. Need new spark plugs and wires still, also-
SO MUCH TO DO but this will be fun. Ya lemme know what you people think about this6/8rib, alternator, heads, etc,etc. Or anything in general, thanks
![Tire Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle]()
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Ya so relocated from VA with no garage to AL with a 2 car garage, FINALLY
Basically I'm still kinda gettin the garage set up, but going from where the TBSS was and still is in terms of mods from NOV 2019 (last time I drove it further than around the block)
79k stock LS2
4L70E RPM Lvl 6, bought it second hand, about 85k on it now (has never missed a beat, a nice surprise)
Yank 3k stall
Volant CAI
various tunes of my work and others
Belltech shocks, not lowered
normal brake stuff
AEM WB
Kooks + catted Y pipe (need to get the uncatted one for an FI setup, evidently)
PCM Brake duct trans cooler
Aeroforce Gauge (great tool)
Going to-
TVS2300, stock pulley
PCM 4" FWI
PCM Tempest Cam (didn't want to go too crazy, but the dyno charts look good for a 218 cam imo), plus not going crazy on lift
Melling pump, all the normal stuff like pushrods and all that everyone does on these things
Bigger FI Connection Injectors
Bigger fuel pump
gauges from Speedhut (they have some that are really close to the TBSS cluster style)
FSR rad+efans
PCM trans cooler spal fan kit
PCM of NC 2 Bar SD Tune
PCM Catch can (I'm curious to see how much oil the manifold pukes)
Yella Terra Ultra LW 1.7s
LC32 crossmember
LS2 C6 TB (maybe, not sure yet, have two tho if anyone needs one. They both work fine, just remember to change the scalar in the tune etc)
As far as fluids, Amsoil 10-40 premium, Redline D6 in the trans, prolly won't change, been workin fine so far, (knock on wood)-
Things I'm still contemplating, and would look for input from the knowledge-laden folks here-
I'm concerned about the 6 rib not being sufficient seems like it only really holds for a stock ls2 plus maggie? I'm not sure exactly, probably a factor of how hard you beat on it and how well things are aligned etc etc. THoughts?
That also brings up the alternator, OEM as everyone prolly knows has a clutch- finding a shop that will upgrade the TBSS DR44(G ?) to say 185 and keep the clutch has been unfruitful, but I haven't spent an inordinate amount of time looking, just a few emails etc, nothing solid yet.
If an 8 rib is required, I assume you can just pin the other side of the crank (I believe the IW pulley setups use two dowel pins), that may sound dumb but I'm just makin sure-
Ya, its a stock short block but I read that 5-6 lbs is fine and 8lbs is knockin on deaths door, which is fair.
I'm also considering some trick flow 225 CNC heads, haven't purchased them yet, but I think if I go heads that will require an 8 rib setup. What do you think of this? Besides the 'get a forged short block'', I'm lookin at it, really on the fence, I'm not going to pulley up this hog tbh. But ya that's what people say, right lol
Some pics. Its a work in progress, I'm tryin to build the garage and take advantage of the cool weather, I need to POR 15 all this damn rust (isn't that bad tho), gotta get the headers recoated, install Atomic fab motor mounts, rebuild the entire front end (lower arms, upper arms, everything is gettin replaced).Gotta re-do the wheels, but I think I'm gonna have them professionally refinished to fix the little rash bites on em etc. Also need to buy some SS brake lines from clarksville fasteners. Need new spark plugs and wires still, also-
SO MUCH TO DO but this will be fun. Ya lemme know what you people think about this6/8rib, alternator, heads, etc,etc. Or anything in general, thanks
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I may have missed it but what throttle body, intercooler pump, sticky tire setup are you going with? Have you thought about an extra intercooler tank for added SC coolant capacity?
Decent cam, great flowing heads and exhaust will help keep the heat down. Slap on a Cross Coast Customs (newish owner since Scott passed - RIP) cowl hood on too
I like spending other people's money
Decent cam, great flowing heads and exhaust will help keep the heat down. Slap on a Cross Coast Customs (newish owner since Scott passed - RIP) cowl hood on too
I like spending other people's money
Thanks heder, glad you’re chimin in-
ya so goin with the LS2 C6 TB, gotta change the scalar in the tune to 4725.0 iirc,that should help a tiny bit. That TB just looks so much better right, plus the whole flutter boost thing.
The headers and non catted Y arr being coated by JH (offroad 2000 coating) Ceramic Header & Exhaust Coatings for Off-road Vehicles | Jet-Hot — Jet-Hot and should be back in a few weeks. Went with that coating mainly because of durability, I think the main issue with the coating on the last set was the knuckleheads I paid to install the headers just scraped the sh!t out of them and that combined with moisture, heat, salt, etc etc.
Ya, the intercooler tank, prolly gonna need to do that. I forgot about that tank, thank you- pump? The bosch one that comes in the maggie kit. Is there a better one?
I did ping kaminari about those excellent hoods, we’ll see on that, I will say that Scott’s hood is the only one that looks good on the TBSS imho. The factory GM styling and lines are so good, I really want to preserve this look but I do think the Scott hood looks good and does kinda work with the gm lines.!
I mean, that is a good looking vehicle, best looking not overdone sleeper ish GM ever made imo
![Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive side marker light]()
ya so goin with the LS2 C6 TB, gotta change the scalar in the tune to 4725.0 iirc,that should help a tiny bit. That TB just looks so much better right, plus the whole flutter boost thing.
The headers and non catted Y arr being coated by JH (offroad 2000 coating) Ceramic Header & Exhaust Coatings for Off-road Vehicles | Jet-Hot — Jet-Hot and should be back in a few weeks. Went with that coating mainly because of durability, I think the main issue with the coating on the last set was the knuckleheads I paid to install the headers just scraped the sh!t out of them and that combined with moisture, heat, salt, etc etc.
Ya, the intercooler tank, prolly gonna need to do that. I forgot about that tank, thank you- pump? The bosch one that comes in the maggie kit. Is there a better one?
I did ping kaminari about those excellent hoods, we’ll see on that, I will say that Scott’s hood is the only one that looks good on the TBSS imho. The factory GM styling and lines are so good, I really want to preserve this look but I do think the Scott hood looks good and does kinda work with the gm lines.!
I mean, that is a good looking vehicle, best looking not overdone sleeper ish GM ever made imo
Sounds like you have the headers sorted out. A Doug's guilloutine style E-cut out would be a nice addition if you want to scare the neighbor kids / at the track.
There might be some gains left on the table with the smaller TB. I know that alot of people (CTVS owners) have seen better performance with the 102mm+ tb on the positive displacement blowers like the TVS 1900/2300/2650.
I bought a used Nick Williams 102mm from a local for my twin turbo CTSV build, but after talking to several turbo tuners they recommended staying smallish TB with the turbos. Apparently pushing the air into the smaller diameter helps with turbos ather than pulling the air in on the roots / PD blowers. So I stayed with the port matched LS7 TB on the LS3 intake.
The LS9 and Varimax intercooler pumps are a solid cost concious upgrades. You can be a baller if you went with an expansion tank and a reprogrammed Steward EMP pump or a badass CWA400 pump. Just be careful with your electrical system with the high powered pumps as they ran my battery down EXTREMELY fast with just the key on and not running / on a charger.
Yes the 20x10 rears with 315s are NICE. MT Streets is what I ran on the street. I swapped out to 16" regular trailblazer rims with M&H 275 DRs at the track. They hooked amazing with 18psi.
Good luck on whatever you do with!
![Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread]()
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![Wheel Tire Car Automotive side marker light Land vehicle]()
There might be some gains left on the table with the smaller TB. I know that alot of people (CTVS owners) have seen better performance with the 102mm+ tb on the positive displacement blowers like the TVS 1900/2300/2650.
I bought a used Nick Williams 102mm from a local for my twin turbo CTSV build, but after talking to several turbo tuners they recommended staying smallish TB with the turbos. Apparently pushing the air into the smaller diameter helps with turbos ather than pulling the air in on the roots / PD blowers. So I stayed with the port matched LS7 TB on the LS3 intake.
The LS9 and Varimax intercooler pumps are a solid cost concious upgrades. You can be a baller if you went with an expansion tank and a reprogrammed Steward EMP pump or a badass CWA400 pump. Just be careful with your electrical system with the high powered pumps as they ran my battery down EXTREMELY fast with just the key on and not running / on a charger.
Yes the 20x10 rears with 315s are NICE. MT Streets is what I ran on the street. I swapped out to 16" regular trailblazer rims with M&H 275 DRs at the track. They hooked amazing with 18psi.
Good luck on whatever you do with!
Im gonna see if i can damage this o ring with the pcm pickup. A little fluid film lubricating everything. I have 3 of each color, so i figure lets test out this process and look it after i pull the tube back out after installing it like a knucklehead to see if i can break it etc
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Also grabbed a couple shims for final install
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Dont use the red one. That jives with what pcm of nc says, ok cool. Took lots of force btw
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Pcm says blue or black, this is the black one after i pulled it out of the pump after installing the tube with a normal amount of ‘ insertion ‘ force. Thats the winner imo
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Tbss alt top, 07 up gmt900 KW1 on bottom. Note case size diff and winding size diff. Isnt the tbss alt rated to 145 like the KW1 gmt800/900? Idk. The kW1 alt is from the yard, had a bent post but w/e -edit ya that's a 160 amp KW1 GMT800/900 alt, not what I said earlier about being a KG3. makes sense that the winding is mo fatter for 160 amp vs 145, but that seems like a big diff for 15 amps but w/e
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ya tbss 145, of thats what i remember and what it should be. Ok then
![Shoe Automotive tire Outdoor shoe Font Automotive exterior]()
ya tbss 145, of thats what i remember and what it should be. Ok then
I think if i get that hi amp stator and HD rectifier for a gmt800/900 and use the back half with the gmt800 longer bolts of the gmt800/900 alt case I should be good to. The rectifier and voltage reg look identical to the tbss alt. Then I can keep 8 rib clutch pulley (if that even works, it should i bet), have an hi amp alt all lookin factory.
shit you know what, i bet the rotors are diff GDMMIT
-edit or just upgrade a gmt800/900 alt and put the 8 rib pulley on it. Thats probably what im gonna do. Shafts look same same
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shit you know what, i bet the rotors are diff GDMMIT
-edit or just upgrade a gmt800/900 alt and put the 8 rib pulley on it. Thats probably what im gonna do. Shafts look same same
she'll be ok. I updated my little checklist to reflect some things I found with the rotor difference which leads to a person sh!tcanning the TBSS alt if you want to go 8 rib clutch pulley upgraded, which works for my use case- if you wanted to keep your OEM 6 rib clutch, you would just need the special tool and swap over the tbss pulley onto the KW1 alt then be good to go with the 250 amp 6 rib clutch setup tentatively
Ok so ya, the KW1 rotor is about the same, maybe SLIGHTLY bigger but it may be on a slightly longer shaft and in a diff spot, around .3 ", possibly. about 3/10" longer on the KW1- makes sense, longer bolts by 3/10 than the TBSS etc etc
![Tire Automotive tire Light Tread Wood]()
The rotors are the same width, around 4.2" and same depth, around 2.2-2.3
BUT the KW1 weight almost a pound more. I think there is more copper on the rotor, obviously your eyes can play tricks on you but to me it looks like the KW1 has morecopper on it. you can't see the plastic carrier on it and the depth of the winding is the same for both. However. The distance from the top of the rotor claw to the copper winding is 50 thou LESS when measuring 3 spots along the claw on the KW1 than the TBSS alt, which says there is more wire, which matches with not being able to see the plastic on the KW1 (yellow boxes) versus being able to see it on the TBSS
![Automotive tire Sports equipment Headgear Audio equipment Personal protective equipment]()
as far as pulleys and shaft length on the front half, that doesn't seem to be an issue, they're the same. your eyes will play tricks on you, but they are the same length protruding from the case, around 1"
TBSS pulley to case
![Light Telephony Font Material property Office equipment]()
TBSS pulley to shaft
![Light Rectangle Font Composite material Temperature]()
Ok, so that makes the TBSS shaft ~1.1"
KW1 pulley is almost flush to the end of the shaft, you can see some out of focus brown shmegma in the center, that's the shaft
![Glove Automotive tire Camera lens Automotive design Headgear]()
KW1 pulley to case
![Automotive tire Tool Bicycle part Gas Font]()
KW1 shaft to approx case height
![Automotive tire Wheel Tire Bicycle part Gas]()
So ya, looks like both shafts are about an inch protruding on the front end but the KW1 on the back end is definitely bigger. waiting on parts for now, shouldn't be long ya right lol
Ok so ya, the KW1 rotor is about the same, maybe SLIGHTLY bigger but it may be on a slightly longer shaft and in a diff spot, around .3 ", possibly. about 3/10" longer on the KW1- makes sense, longer bolts by 3/10 than the TBSS etc etc
The rotors are the same width, around 4.2" and same depth, around 2.2-2.3
BUT the KW1 weight almost a pound more. I think there is more copper on the rotor, obviously your eyes can play tricks on you but to me it looks like the KW1 has morecopper on it. you can't see the plastic carrier on it and the depth of the winding is the same for both. However. The distance from the top of the rotor claw to the copper winding is 50 thou LESS when measuring 3 spots along the claw on the KW1 than the TBSS alt, which says there is more wire, which matches with not being able to see the plastic on the KW1 (yellow boxes) versus being able to see it on the TBSS
as far as pulleys and shaft length on the front half, that doesn't seem to be an issue, they're the same. your eyes will play tricks on you, but they are the same length protruding from the case, around 1"
TBSS pulley to case
TBSS pulley to shaft
Ok, so that makes the TBSS shaft ~1.1"
KW1 pulley is almost flush to the end of the shaft, you can see some out of focus brown shmegma in the center, that's the shaft
KW1 pulley to case
KW1 shaft to approx case height
So ya, looks like both shafts are about an inch protruding on the front end but the KW1 on the back end is definitely bigger. waiting on parts for now, shouldn't be long ya right lol
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