Just ordered one of these Bridge Rectifier - HEAVY DUTY Negative & Positive Rectifier with Rear Housing & Brush Holder Assembly. For : Delco DR44G Series Alternators Used On: 2011-05 Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC, Hummer
in addition to the 250 amp stator. New 2 pin regulator also.
so basically around 375 bucks for an 8 rib clutch 250 amp alternator. Plus 80 amp diodes vs 50 on the dc power one (not knocking, just sayin) we’ll see how it works out nbd. Ok done for today
// everything below is speculation until tested //
so all in all, you could tentatively
take a TBSS alt and shitcan it because it sucks (j/k it doesn't suck) BUT, get a KW1 160 amp alternator from an 800/900 w/ 2 pin voltage reg and do the following to get a 250 amp alt and an 8 rib clutch. These alts are pretty much on everything 05 and up when GM went electric fans for 800/900s.
1-mark clock marks on KW1 alt for front/back halves
2-remove pulley with 24mm impact 1/2 drive weeeee
3- crack it in half by removing the 4 bolts holding the two case halves (i think E8 torx, the female torx), slight taps with a brass drift on opposite sides, nbd
4- remove plastic shell, remove the voltage regulator from the rear half by de-soldering the one solder connection and some E5 torx bolts iirc, remove the standoff and threaded post, the post is splined and pressed into the aluminum rectifier base, the standoff that surrounds the threaded post is also pressed onto the post's splines that protrude through the rectifier, nbd ball peen and pliers. sh!tcan the old stator/rectifier assy
5- grab that HD rectifier part for 75 bucks, grab the 250 amp stator for 150 bucks, copy your clock mark onto the new HD rectifier's aluminum rear body
6-remove standoff/post from new rectifier (maybe it screws on with the new one, not sure yet) install old voltage reg to new HD rectifier (E5 torx), solder then install that one solder joint, re-install post and standoff to rectifier base you just removed from the new rectiifer assy in order to install the old KW1 voltage reg
7- install HD rectifier assy to 250 amp stator, crimp and solder three winding leads from stator to rectifier through the rectifier base, make sure the brushes are good on the two copper pads on the shaft
8-mate two case halves together, check your clock marks, install case bolts (E8 torx i think) using opposite side tightening, little bit at a time etc, make sure it spins nice like before, install rear plastic shell
9- install 8 rib clutch pulley from australia using special tool to the same depth (distance from case w/feeler gauge) as before (it might just bottom out, not sure, prolly does just bottom out) hopefully , make sure it spins freely with no weirdness (rough spot, slow spot, etc)
10-install on truck
btw this is just a checklist for me, once the parts come in (could be a while with that damn pulley from down under) I'll slap it on the tahoe since its an 05 and has the 2 pin smart alternator system like the tbss. The rotors could in fact be different, I'm not sure yet but I'll crack the tbss alt in half tomorrow night to see if its the same size as the KW1 GMT 800/900 alt, I bet they're the same but we'll see. it should work or cause a massive electrical fire, I don't see any issues with this, what could POSSIBLY go wrong, wheres my beer.
// end of speculation until tested //
updated 27 Dec 11:11 CST