[scott750]

Yup Gates RPM, that's it.

Do you remember if your converter was shimmed already? Its easy to check the gap using a 1/8" drill bit placed between the flexplate and converter mount lugs. But too far into the trans you risk cracking the pump, too far out and you risk stripping the teeth off the pump gear.

When I was doing my research on the 31.5" spring conversion, I was told to only get the rubber isolators for the top of the spring that contacts the frame perch, that the bottom of the spring on the axle didn't matter. I just didn't like the fact of the metal on metal of the spring and axle perch, that's why I went with isolators on top and bottom.

 

[Bigtuna13]

No shims when i zapped the TC bolts out, so no shims between the pad and the flexplate.
what I kinda of dont understand, and correct me if I’m wrong because I probably am, but if the reference point is the flexplate, and you need no more than 3/16 but no less than 3/32 from the flexplate to the TC pad, then doesnt that totally ignore whats going on with the depth on the pump?All pumps and converters can’t all be the same on dimensions, idk maybe they are?
idk maybe the logic is all pumps and cases are the same but the variation is in the converter pad and flexplate? I

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[Bigtuna13]

I understand the concept of spline engagement and pump stuff etc but i guess im wondering why the ref point isnt the pump/trans. Eh whatever miller time

 

[scott750]

I'm no expert but the transmission bellhousing/trans body never changes, its the converter that changes. When the converter manufacturer builds them, they have to weld the 2 halves of the converters together and that's where the difference in depths come from.

 

[Bigtuna13]

that makes sense.
well, do it once and do it right, goin with sending the block out to go to 402/3, thanks again burnit53. thats a good dude there in vegas. 5 week turnaround from the time he gets the block, so I can't afford not to go with that! The short block is gonna be back before the headers and y pipe return from Jet Hot, so that's cool. i mean why stop now, 10% over IW 8 rib, 4l80, meth, ahhhh stop the madness

 

[Civteck]

In for pics n updates, sounds like a killer build..

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Bigtuna13]

Pretty clean, nothin unexpected here, which is nice

 

[Bigtuna13]

All the lifters feel and look good, prolly use them again because i know they’re good?

 

[Bigtuna13]

First cam bearing looks and feels eh, glad those are gettin replaced

 

[Bigtuna13]

And that, folks, is why you always do it yourself. I paid to have that pcm of nc pickup installed (not by them, just bein clear) never payin work again. Im so glad this thing has always had good pressure. Ticking time bomb

 

[Bigtuna13]

Rod bearings, 1 on top. Decent

 

[Bigtuna13]

Cool. Done for today, looks pretty good, gonna pallet this block and off she goes after I get tye caps back in

 

[Civteck]

Ready for the machine shop, nice progress.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Burnit53]

Did you ask Jason about head studs?

 

[Bigtuna13]

I haven't yet but I will definitely be bringing that up. studs all around! I'll prolly give him a holler tomorrow, very knowledgeable guy, as you know.! ya this is gonna be awesome, I'm already thinking about an 8 rib kit, I like the ati for looks only, eh i mean whats another 1200 bucks at this point, eff it. I'll prolly call ATI tomorrow also, hopefully we can piece something together. I've been savin up funds and parts for this build, its nice to actually have time and space to actually get some sh!t done the way I want for once lol. MURICA

 

[Bigtuna13]

I also saw this, maybe it will work on the TBSS alt, maybe not. I'm thinking holden LS3 or L99 cars have some things in common with the LS2, maybe right- Maybe this 8-rib alt clutch pulley will work on the TBSS alt. I'm a big fan of the overrun clutch for some reason, it just makes sense but it seems like nobody has one on their 8 rib setups. obviously this may not work lol, eh worth a few bucks if it lines up and prevents belt stress dealing with the alternator, worth 80 bucks or whatever. the second catch, besides probably not having the proper thread pitch/type, is coming from Australia. arrrgh

https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/electrical-parts-vehicle-management/alternator-parts/nuline-alternator-pulley-overrun-oap097/p/A9614148

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[quick66ss]

Nice build. Just wrapped up a 2 year TVS2300 build on my 06.

 

[quick66ss]

I have a IW 8 rib balancer I am not going to use if you go that route. I ended up running the 10% overdriven unit on my SS and have a new stock diameter 7.25 balancer on the shelf.

 

[Bigtuna13]

Thanks guys for the feedback- Ok lemme chew on that IW pulley idea, thank you sir
Drove to Wilkes Performance near B-Ham and dropped of the 243s for a full workover, evidently Mr. Wilkes was doing this for a while for some big name shops (cnc heads etc) before some went super big time corporate or whatever. Not goin with the trick flows for now due to lead times (forever), so these should be fine for the 402/x. Evidently there are some people pulling tf genx 225s off for these, ok, we’ll see how they do!! Im pumped either way. Yah, 2.055 and 1.60, why not. It might work out pretty well with 10lbs

Product Page | Wilkesperformance

www.wilkesperformance.net

 

[Bigtuna13]

Fuel filler hose at the tank. That was more azz pain than it should have been but hey, all good. Waiting for the lingenfelter pump assy. It was 450 bucks, right, but it does have
-new filter
-new pressure sensor
-new level sensor/sender
-new regulator

and obv new walbro 450 or TI or whoever bought walbro, idk

So overall, worth it to replace 14/15 year old stuff before the madness begins. Also tore out the spare tire assembly, don't need that anyways right. Watch; I'll get a effin flat tire first time out LMAO damn you, murphy, damn you-

Merry XMas mofos!