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'07 3SS 2WD
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Did you buy those exhaust band clamps, or did they come with your kit? Mine came with U-bolts, and the joints leaked. Swapped to the band type when the engine was out.
 

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07 AWD 3SS
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561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #282 · (Edited)
I bought the 3” lap joint clamps on amazon, they are more flexible/malleable/not as dense as the bands marked 3.0” that are about 1” wide. The 3” diameter thicker 1” wide clamps came with the kit from speed. Look pretty decent, so maybe they took the internet feedback and actually changed some stuff?!
 

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07 AWD 3SS
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561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #283 · (Edited)
Well, this whole catch can thing is kind of a dumpster fire. Hmm. im thinkin off the frame rail driver’s side under wheel speed sensor connector if a full left turn does not cause contact. Needs to be lower than the valve cover exit, but real estate is at a premium as usual. and something to consider is extending the effective volume of the vacuum system, one leak anywhere and it will be no bueno on an SD only system. bad anytime, obv, but more imperative here
 

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Well, this whole catch can thing is kind of a dumpster fire. Hmm. im thinkin off the frame rail driver’s side under wheel speed sensor connector if a full left turn does not cause contact. Needs to be lower than the valve cover exit, but real estate is at a premium as usual. and something to consider is extending the effective volume of the vacuum system, one leak anywhere and it will be no bueno on an SD only system. bad anytime, obv, but more imperative here
I too am struggling with a PCMofNC catch can install. All of their included ways to mount suck.
At this point I’m leaning towards in front of the pulleys almost above the factory ecu, off center to the left to access the drain easier.

I’ve fabbed a bracket, now just need to mount and add a second bolt hole to securely mount it or similar, to hold the weight securely
 

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07 AWD 3SS
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561 Posts
Discussion Starter · #285 · (Edited)
Im thinkin right here.
Then just make a little splash guard for it, m6 tap into the frame using these and same m6s for the shield. Some high density adhesive rubber on the back to cushion between top 1/2 of the can and frame, some 90 deg 6-ans, done. That 3/8 hose is 36” plumbed into the maggie vac port, 1 of 3. Other two are to evap and brakes. Just sayin that more for myself lol. Need prolly 2 1/2 feet to go from the valve cover down to to the tentative can location nbd
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Discussion Starter · #288 · (Edited)
1 piece FWI in, wiring 99% done. The FWI fits well, easy day. Next is radiator/HX/pump/fans/fan controller. I’ll probably use some door weatherstripping to cushion the tube through the big ass hole vs the split loom, nbd
-probably just ixnay the white coil pack connectors in whole, solder thr wires up to get rid of the bulky white connectors eventually
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Discussion Starter · #290 ·
Just doin some key on engine off tests to make sure things are good—

-no fuel leaks, holds 58 psig for a long time, which means the injectors arent leaking for the time being, thats good

-no electrical burning smell from anywhere, thats good

-e85 and e10 widebands are working and reading correctly

-extra relays are working correctly, not staying engaged after i take the key out/turn the key off, thats good

-all aftermarket gauges read correct initially (boost, fp, wb, e 85wb, aeroforce)

aeroforce gauge shows
-97 iat
-97 trans temp
-91 coolant (no coolant in it yet)
-54 kpa on map, which is correct for the 1 bar tune and 2 bar sensor installed

need to write entire the pcm of nc tune. For now beer 30
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
Need to install the hx pump and autocool, fill coolant on both systems then its showtime. been doin the belt sizing game for the last few days, im sure rockauto is sayin WTF what is this idiot doing, but i think i have my winners in HD and RPM arriving friday. Tickled about hiw the lowering came out. Gonna be fun
 

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You asked earlier and I forgot, but my auto cool is well left of middle, more on the cold side. Maybe around 1/4 from full cold? That puts me at 189 from an obd scanner and fans on while idling.

Following their instructions using an infrared temp gun, I couldn’t get a good reading and just played with the knob and watched the output of the obd scanner. I need to take it for a shakedown run around the neighborhood soon to verify it all.
 

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Mitch- you have a 160 stat and fsr rad? Just checkin. Thx
160 stat, ls1 pump and an aluminum no name radiator for the 6cyl trailblazer. Thicker core, all aluminum, messed up piping angles which required some tinkering getting the right hoses, more importantly the inlet and outlet are in opposite sides but it’s not a two stage or dual pass radiator. Think MacGuyver and a shoe string budget…
 

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Discussion Starter · #299 ·
naw man I might do that, i saw the rev hard garage guy's video, cross flow is a big deal. I can't run the LS1 pump with the snout-style maggie (jackshaft will prolly work) otherwise I'd do that. one of the reason I did the 10% OD was to get higher alt rpm and h2o pump rpm but ya, ok cool thanks man
 

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naw man I might do that, i saw the rev hard garage guy's video, cross flow is a big deal. I can't run the LS1 pump with the snout-style maggie (jackshaft will prolly work) otherwise I'd do that. one of the reason I did the 10% OD was to get higher alt rpm and h2o pump rpm but ya, ok cool thanks man
my story gets worse!

i originally started with an ls3 pump that is truck spaced that didn’t require spacers but massaging of the alt bracket. I later also tapped it for a hose barb to clean up hoses. Which I botched…

Later I swapped to an ls1 pump with ict spacers. Works fine.

But it’s all for naught as it doesn’t work with my house of boost procharger brackets. So I’m going back to stock…

So yeah 3 pumps in a matter of months. You only live once right? In the end it was a learning experience in not thinking ahead and only thinking of “oh this is a cool mod..”
 
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