Thermal reduction blower spacer plates help to reduce heat transfer caused by the supercharger sitting directly on the cylinder heads and spacing the charger up off the valley of the engine.
i torqued the blower down and it ‘might’ fit, but shes gonna be close. i could bust out the tonya harding on the body to persuade it a bit but i’m not there just yet
And speaking of torqueing the blower down to the rec’d 106 in/lbs- ya you wanna do that about 4 times to get all the bolts consistent at 106. Like the first pass on the head bolts/studs, best to do that a couple times to get everyone on the same page/even
about the interchiller and these spacers- i mean i know every degree counts etc, but honestly look at the before/after dyno…. Not super impressive for the cost of running your ac 100% of the time tbh. I need to revisit this whole interchiller thing but like, what- 20 hp when your layin 540 or whatever? Im just not sure. Seems like a lot of added complexity for not a lot of reward etc. eh whatever Beer 30 boys.
grabbed a crossover pipe from an 04 tahoe in the yard, this may work nicely to get the rear steam ports plumbed up and join the front and head into the upper rad hose since i need to get the nice expensive an crap off the back now. Nbd
Gettin the control arms and shock stuff loosely in, driveshafts are in and torqued, need to
-plumb coolant from rear head ports
-keep goin in the magnuson manual re front end stuff
-move IAT, lengthen MAP a bit
-drain dino 5w30, prime w/ break in
-plumb heat exchanger
Missing a ton but thats tomorrow
parts shelf is gettin cleared out! I like it
Well maybe not but things are departing vs arriving haha
I think it may work by just routing the upper #2 side wiring under the snout, gonna be tight. Someone did a great write-up on this wayyy back, gotta check my notes for it. For now im gonna just throw some loom on things and lay it across the top like normal until the major bugs are worked out
Well, im gonna go the polarity switch relay to get the ground for ac pressure hi from the e67, i believe it is the ‘fan hi’ pin, or fan 2, i gotta check but its either C1 54 or C3 49 sends the ground to the triple relay setup if you configure for series/parallel 6V/12V like oem GM dual fans do on the GTO and GMT800s starting in 05.
The polarity switch relay should get the ground, then send 12 v to the autocool.
or you could splice in on the ac connector 12v at the connector on the compressor and run that to the autocool, maybe put a diode on it, but id rather just use the ground method
Accomplished a few things this evening, need to fill trans and front diff, clean the fluidfilm off the frame where the exposed metal is and give it a shot of flat black, but chuggin along.
I have my eyes on a PRW water pump, i was readin a thread where some guys were sayin the pressed on pulleys become loose after a while.
That all makes sense, i think this h2o pump only has 10k on it tho, and changin a water pump is nbd so we’ll wait on that.
Impressed with the fluidfilm, does a good job of preventing rust, gonna do that once a year, lift her skirt up give her a good spray-
my hubs only have 10k on them also, so run them til they grind, shouldnt be too long lol
need to pull the lower control arms in and tighten them a little bit, dont wanna go the full 160 ft/lbs or whatever just yet on the big 6
installed ecm and tcm
Got hypnotized by the smurf blood autotrak 2 fluid for about 3 minutes, snapped out of it. Its blue it weird and different. Why blue, GM? Haha
need to get some good wheel liner stuff to make them black again, anyone have any ideas on something that will hold up for a couple mos at a time?
Everything underneath is good to go; rear wheels on, brakes bled, fluids in minus cooling, gonna grab some junk at oreillys to get the wheelwell liners a little darker. Installed simple engineering TBSS stiffening plate and LC32 crossmember. Still need to get the front end built, waiting on UPS for the earls steam vent fitting. Cruisin along. Hooked up power last night, everything seems happy, trans shifts and displays proper gear selection, engine cranks and builds pressure with the break-in oil, stabilitrak is happy, no bcm codes, no chrck engine codes. Havent flashed in the new data yet, nbd
The lowering came out good- thats 31.5 springs in the rear w/ isolators top and bottom, two of the thicker spacers on the front shocks under the collars. Front and rear should come down a tad once things wear in a tad. Shitty pic i’ll get some better ones later next week etc. proxes st3 275 45 20
Truck sits at 31.5 -31.7 front and 32” rear without me in it and 1/3 tank. And no coolant but thats with a battery and blower etc engine blah. Love that look, lowered but not like too lowered etc. came out good im happy about that
ya man, i'm tryin to get this thing on the road so I can enjoy it, for cyin out loud!! lol
returned the K081145RPM belt to rockauto, ordered an K081124HD. The long RPM belt fit but the tensioner was at 0%, just off the stop with basically 1 lb of tension lol- so that belt was 114.5, I think the HD 112.4 will be just about 112 actual, we'll see how it fits. I'm sure someone has figured out a way to do this accurately the first time, like maybe get a piece of string or something. eh its all good.
installed ACD 41-104 plugs, coils on, wires on, heater hoses installed, need to install HX and get the pump installed, radiator, fenderwell intake, adjust toe on the front wheel after I bleed the PS system