[Bigtuna13]

checkin PR length many many many times on all cylinders, lookin like this, may just go 7.5 for all. Thought/opinions? Seems about right. Its weird because i’ll measure one for 7.475 then go back and it wants 7.5. After adding 75 thou for preload and expansion. Pretty consistently inconsistent but all are 7.475-7.5” which I think is ok

 

[Bigtuna13]

Also the ls9 compressed to about 50 thou vs the advertised 55. Feeler set up for 49 thou goes in smooth and 51 requires force

 

[Burnit53]

Hit up Jason. See what he thinks.

 

[Bigtuna13]

Im not concerned enough to really call in the cavalry yet, its just right between 7.475 and 7.5 favoring 7.5. Passes the common sense check imho. I ordered 7.5s and 7.475s, I plan on re-checking after break in

i’d be sweating my balls off without the 95deg swamp heat a whole lot more if one corner was high or low or there was an oddball length

 

[Bigtuna13]

The steel rocker tray is about the straightest thing i have lyin around, interesting to see the difference between valve seats/height and spring seats that affects each Pushrod length. definitely a mix and match of 7.475 and 7.5”. Little gaps of 15-25 thou on various valves it seems. And about the 50 thou compressed thickness, we think thats the extra clamping ability when using studs vs bolts. Nbd

 

[scott750]

View attachment 103831
Ended up with 9.9-10 to 1 depending on whichever calculator you use, re the SCR. I didn’t want to lose too much pep out of boost.

Should be picking it up tomorrow from the freight terminal- look at this heat exchanger pump ‘harness’ from the magnuson kit. Really? Crimp terminals? duuuuude whaaat the effff magnuson. Need to re-do this thing, nbd

Yeah that relay is junk. Mine shorted out after a year. I replaced it with a waterproof sealed 40 amp relay from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QV54V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Bigtuna13]

Ya, PCM of NC uses good relays, i’m honna use them since i have them here. Dont need tge harness i bought years ago now that i have the autocool 85 thing. Snazzy

Gonna start mockin up the accessories once i tet the PRs in, i couldnt resist settin the blower on lol

 

[Bigtuna13]

Typin with gloves, sorry eh

Fuckin A, right?!?!?! YESSS

 

[Bigtuna13]

Looks like i can keep the flex sensor on top, i mean it won’t be the prettiest install ever but thats fine imo

 

[Bigtuna13]

8 rib blower pulley juuust tad too tight on the inside diameter to attach properly, nothin some sandpaper and elbow action can’t fix, tho nbd. Or some careful dremel action

 

[Mitch808]

Ya, PCM of NC uses good relays, i’m honna use them since i have them here. Dont need tge harness i bought years ago now that i have the autocool 85 thing. Snazzy

Gonna start mockin up the accessories once i tet the PRs in, i couldnt resist settin the blower on lol

It becomes a rabbit hole with the autocoolguy unit in trying to keep all the wires in check. I’ve spent probably 3-4hours in total wiring it in and physically mounting it.

This mounts right in front of the battery, down low. I relocated the factory horns under the existing location behind the bumper.

I’m using Anderson plugs for quick connects between the controller and fans. In hindsight those things are huge and an XT60 connection would be better or an xt90. Making sure to support the 10ga to the fans I’m using and 8ga as the main supply line.

 

[Bigtuna13]

That looks good, I will copycat you somewhat on that…. I grabbed some metripack connectors from the yard the other day, i think an 8 pin and a couple 6 pins for relays and gauges etc. ya it is a bit of a cluster with all the wires, plus it takes in 12v pos for ac where the pcm uses gnd to turn the fans on via ac pressures…. Uggh 1 more relay i gotta do to switch polarity.
in other notes-
Gotta drill the pcm of nc pickup mounting hole out to 3/8” for the ARP stud. The main stud where the pickup mounts

Also, i’ll get some pics up next week (gotta head to the airport soon, out all next week) but it looks like you can use a 170 amp oem alt with the blower, which is nice. Too much to do!!
its close but it will fit. My other 250 amp experiment isnt over, just picked this one cheap from a local yard, why not. Clutch pulley also now standard on the full size gms, thats neat

 

[Mitch808]

Wait the ac signal is a gnd? Damn I didn't know. Thanks for that nugget

 

[Bigtuna13]

Im talkin about the fan logic the ECM uses to switch the fans on via ground to lower the pressure in the system. I’m 90% sure its fan 2 (vs fan 1)when pressure gets hi. The ac itself goin to the compressor is positive

I want to use the autocool like normal, right, but I want to retain the ecm’s ability to turn fan 2 on when pressure is too hi, regardless of coolant temp/ac request/ac status like oem series/parallel fans etc

 

[Civteck]

Im talkin about the fan logic the ECM uses to switch the fans on via ground to lower the pressure in the system. I’m 90% sure its fan 2 (vs fan 1)when pressure gets hi. The ac itself goin to the compressor is positive

I want to use the autocool like normal, right, but I want to retain the ecm’s ability to turn fan 2 on when pressure is too hi, regardless of coolant temp/ac request/ac status like oem series/parallel fans etc

Does the autocool use + or - for a trigger? If + just add a relay, use the ecm to trigger the relay and get the power source through the relay. Sounds confusing I'll draw a diagram if needed.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Bigtuna13]

ya it does according to the manual, ya you need a polarity switch relay to do what ‘I’ want to do, which is using the e67 stuff triggered by ground for fan 2 etc. but for most applications, it makes sense for autocoolguy ti make that ac trigger positive from the circuit that engages the clutch etc

 

[Mitch808]

Autocoolguy has a ground based failsafe iirc. Then the AC signal and then the temp probe as possible ways to engage the PWM fan speeds

 

[Bigtuna13]

Zappin down the rocker arms with thread sealant in intake and the BTR shaft kit. Nice piece. Had to do some extra grinding on the accessory bracket to interface nicely with thr maggie bracket, but nbd

 

[Bigtuna13]

and regarding the PCM of NC pickup tube-

I spent a few hours taking my time reinstalling it- couple things

1-the Mast motorsports windage tray for up to 4.25" stroke engines needs to be bent a tiny bit where the pickup tube meets the oil pump, its a tight fit with ARP studs AND the extra stroke. all good in the hood, just be advised on that

2-aforementioned drilling the mounting bracket out to ~ .400"

Also installed this, fit fine as it probably should

1.7.2020 New Engine Oil Pump Pickup Tube Bracket for GM LS 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L & 6.2L Engines - Melling

Oil Pump Pickup Tube Bracket for GM LS 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L & 6.2L Engines Part # M29500 Click Here to Download PDF Product Announcement Click Here to Download Hi Res Image

www.melling.com

 

[Bigtuna13]

Power steering pulley was a BITCH. IW pulley is tight, whoa buddy. She tite

pulleys line up ok, i removed a shim washer on one idler pulley, its decent. Need to get a straight edge on there as ive just eagle eyed it as of right now.

also ordered the HD magnuson tensioner with the 8 rib, that will be here tomorrow. Probably going to need a belt a tad longer than the stock dimension, probably an inch or inch and a half since the balancer is 10% bigger than stock. Also chrck that out, am I missing something or are these two belts the same outside circumference?!?! One says 109.8” inthe part number and one is 108.8” but both have 109.375” as oc. Whatever, these both wont work obv so looks like HD green with the tensioner at 70%. Belt that shipped with the kit is on the left