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TVS2300 and a couple of other things

16670 Views 323 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Blazer_99
Been a long time, at least a few years but I'd figure why not and make a thread on the 07, which used to be my DD for about 4 years but hasn't been for the last 2, which is nice (bombing around in the 05 tahoe with an LQ9 and 65e from an esky). What isn't nice is what driving the TBSS a couple of times and I really do mean a couple of times in Virginia salt bomb land does to things, really amazing, not a big deal tho, really.

Ya so relocated from VA with no garage to AL with a 2 car garage, FINALLY

Basically I'm still kinda gettin the garage set up, but going from where the TBSS was and still is in terms of mods from NOV 2019 (last time I drove it further than around the block)

79k stock LS2
4L70E RPM Lvl 6, bought it second hand, about 85k on it now (has never missed a beat, a nice surprise)
Yank 3k stall
Volant CAI
various tunes of my work and others
Belltech shocks, not lowered
normal brake stuff
Kooks + catted Y pipe (need to get the uncatted one for an FI setup, evidently)
PCM Brake duct trans cooler
Aeroforce Gauge (great tool)

Going to-
TVS2300, stock pulley
PCM Tempest Cam (didn't want to go too crazy, but the dyno charts look good for a 218 cam imo), plus not going crazy on lift
Melling pump, all the normal stuff like pushrods and all that everyone does on these things
Bigger FI Connection Injectors
Bigger fuel pump
gauges from Speedhut (they have some that are really close to the TBSS cluster style)
FSR rad+efans
PCM trans cooler spal fan kit
PCM of NC 2 Bar SD Tune
PCM Catch can (I'm curious to see how much oil the manifold pukes)
Yella Terra Ultra LW 1.7s
LC32 crossmember
LS2 C6 TB (maybe, not sure yet, have two tho if anyone needs one. They both work fine, just remember to change the scalar in the tune etc)

As far as fluids, Amsoil 10-40 premium, Redline D6 in the trans, prolly won't change, been workin fine so far, (knock on wood)-

Things I'm still contemplating, and would look for input from the knowledge-laden folks here-
I'm concerned about the 6 rib not being sufficient seems like it only really holds for a stock ls2 plus maggie? I'm not sure exactly, probably a factor of how hard you beat on it and how well things are aligned etc etc. THoughts?

That also brings up the alternator, OEM as everyone prolly knows has a clutch- finding a shop that will upgrade the TBSS DR44(G ?) to say 185 and keep the clutch has been unfruitful, but I haven't spent an inordinate amount of time looking, just a few emails etc, nothing solid yet.

If an 8 rib is required, I assume you can just pin the other side of the crank (I believe the IW pulley setups use two dowel pins), that may sound dumb but I'm just makin sure-

Ya, its a stock short block but I read that 5-6 lbs is fine and 8lbs is knockin on deaths door, which is fair.

I'm also considering some trick flow 225 CNC heads, haven't purchased them yet, but I think if I go heads that will require an 8 rib setup. What do you think of this? Besides the 'get a forged short block'', I'm lookin at it, really on the fence, I'm not going to pulley up this hog tbh. But ya that's what people say, right lol
Some pics. Its a work in progress, I'm tryin to build the garage and take advantage of the cool weather, I need to POR 15 all this damn rust (isn't that bad tho), gotta get the headers recoated, install Atomic fab motor mounts, rebuild the entire front end (lower arms, upper arms, everything is gettin replaced).Gotta re-do the wheels, but I think I'm gonna have them professionally refinished to fix the little rash bites on em etc. Also need to buy some SS brake lines from clarksville fasteners. Need new spark plugs and wires still, also-

SO MUCH TO DO but this will be fun. Ya lemme know what you people think about this6/8rib, alternator, heads, etc,etc. Or anything in general, thanks

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1 - 19 of 324 Posts
That's a big ol' list of fun stuff.
knocked that out a couple years ago, thankfully... gonna verify with PCM of NC which o ring to run with the melling HV/HP pump/spring combo, I'm willing to bet its red but we'll see.
on another note- I'm this close to just getting the bottom end built out to 402/3,shockingly its difficult to get lead times or even returned calls and emails from various shops, I assume others are having problems sourcing parts like everyone
I had my engine built by a guy in Vegas over the summer. The only long lead time part he had was pistons. He does a bunch of LS basted engines, so he tends to just keep stuff in stock.
and thanks burnit53 for that POC
Get some things worked out?
Did you ask Jason about head studs?
this stuff right here. worked really well, bought 3 cans for everything you see there

-edit I was raggin on chinese made wheels earlier. cast right into the OEM wheel 'made in china' . go figure haha
Did you use that to take the clear coat off? Mine looks like shit.
Ya man worked really good, give everything a coat, wait 15 min, hose er down.!
Hmm.. Wonder if I could do that with the tires mounted.
Shoulda converted to 2wd while you have it pulled apart..
im a glutton for punishment lol. I tell you what- when this front diff grenades I'll do that if you get me hardened 2WD output shaft lol
I'm just posting this for anyone who's curious etc, but this is the fan shroud I bought a couple years ago, 13" SPALs are on it, rated for around 1700cfm, probably more like 1300 per in the vehicle, guessing. Which is about 1/4 the original mech fan's flow from what ive read on the forum, so that's interesting, but I think as long as you do the big rad or that crossflow rad, low t-stat, get the fans on early things shouldn't get too hot (this has all been done before/proven obv, I'm just talkin out loud). Its honestly shocking how small/thin the OE rad is, I see why GM put the mother of all mech fans on there.! Also only around 20 amps per fan, probably 25 with the heat.? Maybe the paint will resemble the headers, which should be back anywhere from 17-27 Jan View attachment 103470
As much cash as you're putting into this, why not upgrade the fans from the get go?

After cruising spal's site, they don't make any high CFM 13" fans. Maybe you could make adapter rings to go down to 12" and use these.
Wow. Nice.

I just had mine repainted instead of wearing out my elbows....LOL
Wish we could easily get E85 here in Az.
Sweet short block...:cool:
You know we're gonna need pics, right? What CR did you end up going with? Think mine ended up being 10.5:1.
Hit up Jason. See what he thinks.
I have a stand that I built specifically to run Honda J series engines on. Uses a VW bell housing and adapter plate. It's low to the ground though. Not sure I'd want to do it on a regular engine stand.
I have the 1 7/8" Speed headers. No complaints from the guy who installed them or the guy that swapped in the 402 later.

I have the catless Y pipe if that make a difference for you.
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Mine is at the body shop getting a few blemishes touched up, otherwise I snap some picks of the clearance for ya.

Not real up set about NOT having to drive my 10mpg ride with premium approaching $7g. Not that my Jeep gets a whole lot better, but at least it drinks 87,,,
Did you buy those exhaust band clamps, or did they come with your kit? Mine came with U-bolts, and the joints leaked. Swapped to the band type when the engine was out.
"..sounds fuckin mean".

LOL. Wait until you stab the gas and it down shifts, blower whine until redline!
1 - 19 of 324 Posts