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TVS2300 and a couple of other things

16651 Views 323 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Blazer_99
Been a long time, at least a few years but I'd figure why not and make a thread on the 07, which used to be my DD for about 4 years but hasn't been for the last 2, which is nice (bombing around in the 05 tahoe with an LQ9 and 65e from an esky). What isn't nice is what driving the TBSS a couple of times and I really do mean a couple of times in Virginia salt bomb land does to things, really amazing, not a big deal tho, really.

Ya so relocated from VA with no garage to AL with a 2 car garage, FINALLY

Basically I'm still kinda gettin the garage set up, but going from where the TBSS was and still is in terms of mods from NOV 2019 (last time I drove it further than around the block)

79k stock LS2
4L70E RPM Lvl 6, bought it second hand, about 85k on it now (has never missed a beat, a nice surprise)
Yank 3k stall
Volant CAI
various tunes of my work and others
Belltech shocks, not lowered
normal brake stuff
Kooks + catted Y pipe (need to get the uncatted one for an FI setup, evidently)
PCM Brake duct trans cooler
Aeroforce Gauge (great tool)

Going to-
TVS2300, stock pulley
PCM Tempest Cam (didn't want to go too crazy, but the dyno charts look good for a 218 cam imo), plus not going crazy on lift
Melling pump, all the normal stuff like pushrods and all that everyone does on these things
Bigger FI Connection Injectors
Bigger fuel pump
gauges from Speedhut (they have some that are really close to the TBSS cluster style)
FSR rad+efans
PCM trans cooler spal fan kit
PCM of NC 2 Bar SD Tune
PCM Catch can (I'm curious to see how much oil the manifold pukes)
Yella Terra Ultra LW 1.7s
LC32 crossmember
LS2 C6 TB (maybe, not sure yet, have two tho if anyone needs one. They both work fine, just remember to change the scalar in the tune etc)

As far as fluids, Amsoil 10-40 premium, Redline D6 in the trans, prolly won't change, been workin fine so far, (knock on wood)-

Things I'm still contemplating, and would look for input from the knowledge-laden folks here-
I'm concerned about the 6 rib not being sufficient seems like it only really holds for a stock ls2 plus maggie? I'm not sure exactly, probably a factor of how hard you beat on it and how well things are aligned etc etc. THoughts?

That also brings up the alternator, OEM as everyone prolly knows has a clutch- finding a shop that will upgrade the TBSS DR44(G ?) to say 185 and keep the clutch has been unfruitful, but I haven't spent an inordinate amount of time looking, just a few emails etc, nothing solid yet.

If an 8 rib is required, I assume you can just pin the other side of the crank (I believe the IW pulley setups use two dowel pins), that may sound dumb but I'm just makin sure-

Ya, its a stock short block but I read that 5-6 lbs is fine and 8lbs is knockin on deaths door, which is fair.

I'm also considering some trick flow 225 CNC heads, haven't purchased them yet, but I think if I go heads that will require an 8 rib setup. What do you think of this? Besides the 'get a forged short block'', I'm lookin at it, really on the fence, I'm not going to pulley up this hog tbh. But ya that's what people say, right lol
Some pics. Its a work in progress, I'm tryin to build the garage and take advantage of the cool weather, I need to POR 15 all this damn rust (isn't that bad tho), gotta get the headers recoated, install Atomic fab motor mounts, rebuild the entire front end (lower arms, upper arms, everything is gettin replaced).Gotta re-do the wheels, but I think I'm gonna have them professionally refinished to fix the little rash bites on em etc. Also need to buy some SS brake lines from clarksville fasteners. Need new spark plugs and wires still, also-

SO MUCH TO DO but this will be fun. Ya lemme know what you people think about this6/8rib, alternator, heads, etc,etc. Or anything in general, thanks

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i didnt think the 07s got the newer style tensioner, but thats cool. prolly gonna put the rubber ls2 one in because i have it and its new.
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Ya man, been stackin crap up for a few years now, now i’m finally able to get things goin.
Most of this is just tear it apart and clean it, fix all the crap and address issues.
unplanned things ive found up to this point-

-salt has eaten into the frame in a few spots, gotta clean those up and have that welded up with some plate (not a deal, found a good shop local, just need to pull the y pipe once i get it over there)

-address rust with doing POR15 as close to the ‘right’ way as I can- the whole degrease, etch, coat twice or whatever. Thats also not a big deal, really

-pass side carrier sheared splines in the carrier and the pass side of the int shaft. Luckily i bought a new resealed/lubed up etc new seals etc AWD carrier and int shaft wayy back when.
Cracks me up because more times than not every time i would accelerate from a stop turning left, there would be this hard vibration, I was like oh, motor mounts. WRONG. Open diff sending torque to wheel with less grip, shaft destroying itself in the pass side carrier. LUCKILY the driver side of the shaft is good as new. Eh is what it is. Motor mounts are actually good lol. Of course they are

-rebuild front diff because its gonna be out and eff dealing with it later

-replace power steering cooler, rusty as hell, it will probably leak when i get it back together, why wait for trouble

we’ll see what else pops up along the journey

-oh, also gonna send the trans out to get it freshened up to Level 7 at RPM

ya i was gonna try to get away with not pulling the engine, but I think its actually easier to just pull it, makes life easy with all the other ancillary tasks (wire loom replacement,cleanin stuff up, etc). Couple a hundred bucks for a cherry picker and a stand or wayyy too much azz pain tryin to work in that tiny space, kindof a no brainer
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made some progress today, dowel pins fought for a bit but nbd really. chuggin along, trans next, then fuel tank, then cleaning and POR-15 ing
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knocked that out a couple years ago, thankfully... gonna verify with PCM of NC which o ring to run with the melling HV/HP pump/spring combo, I'm willing to bet its red but we'll see.
on another note- I'm this close to just getting the bottom end built out to 402/3,shockingly its difficult to get lead times or even returned calls and emails from various shops, I assume others are having problems sourcing parts like everyone
gonna get rid of those ridiculous trans cooler lines and run AN fitting to the PCM cooler, frickin annoying lines. bet they do shed some heat tho
I was wondering myself, but in case anyone is, the stock pulley diameter on the 2300 on the TBSS kit from magnuson is 3.4"
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magnuson 31-12-00-082. HD tensioner, ok, cool. ya I don't want any belt issues, gonna do my damndest to align the pulleys, for sure.
green belt, you mean like this one? I was reading in some other thread somewhere that this one was pretty good, depending on length but that's the type, yes?


That tensioner of course is hard to find, I know LC32 had some for a while, lemme scour the innerwebs and see if I can source one, maybe someone has one in stock somewhere.

scott750-- you running stock bottom end? I'd imagine your tune is spot on with 10 lbs if your on the stock short block.?

and thanks burnit53 for that POC

oh one other things about the an adapters on the 70E-

did you get 1/4 NPSM to 6 an? Do yours have an o-ring sealing to the case or brass washer? I haven't taken them out yet on mine to check; I've been reading and GM switched somewhere in 06/7 or something to or from 1/4 NPSM to something else for the fittings into the trans case. conflicting information on the forums, no surprise there but I haven't checked mine yet so nbd, just thought i'd see what yours is if you have the original 2008 70e case still in it
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also picked up some djm drop arms new shocks all around, gonna go to 31.5, I bought the rear spring replacement kit along time ago that came with the 1" spacer from the TBSS store and they've just been sitting on the shelf since the airbag lower method worked fine thus far. I figure I leave the spacer out and I should have 31.5 in the rear. gonna sh!tcan the air system tho, it leaked a lot on the way from VA to bama, compressor was running much longer than normal etc, should have done that along time ago but eh, it wasnt broken blah blah

ya and having the wheels professionally refinished back to OEM is almost as much as 20x10 TBSS +45 FR wheels, but that can wait for a bit. think i'll just do the strip and polish thing on the oem wheels, that should be fine for now
Get some things worked out?
ya we'll chat prolly tomorrow, maybe we can come up with something VEGAS BABY
A lift would have help a alot here, lol. Uggh. More progress tho
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Rpm trans fittings on left, look like the straight o ring type vs the NPT that came out of my original 07 case on the right (only have 1 for some reason). Interesting- i think they’re 9/16 o ring but im gonna have to look around and verify. Cool no more trans lines, yay an fittings.
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Heres the snout of the TC, it is smooth as glass btw. Hows that rate on pump engagement? Im not a trans guru. Fluid is red and t case fluid is blue, which i take as good
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ya worse come to worse I can just shim it to proper depth, the 1/8"-3/16" you're talkin about, thanks for that info. 32.5" for the springs. arrgh add it to the list, actual 31.5 springs. thanks for confirming that belt type, also. 'black supercharger' belt, eh? hmm mmkay, cool

ya looks like the gates RPM belt. 'specifically designed for high-output and forced induction engines' ok cool
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No shims when i zapped the TC bolts out, so no shims between the pad and the flexplate.
what I kinda of dont understand, and correct me if I’m wrong because I probably am, but if the reference point is the flexplate, and you need no more than 3/16 but no less than 3/32 from the flexplate to the TC pad, then doesnt that totally ignore whats going on with the depth on the pump?All pumps and converters can’t all be the same on dimensions, idk maybe they are?
idk maybe the logic is all pumps and cases are the same but the variation is in the converter pad and flexplate? I

I understand the concept of spline engagement and pump stuff etc but i guess im wondering why the ref point isnt the pump/trans. Eh whatever miller time
that makes sense.
well, do it once and do it right, goin with sending the block out to go to 402/3, thanks again burnit53. thats a good dude there in vegas. 5 week turnaround from the time he gets the block, so I can't afford not to go with that! The short block is gonna be back before the headers and y pipe return from Jet Hot, so that's cool. i mean why stop now, 10% over IW 8 rib, 4l80, meth, ahhhh stop the madness
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Pretty clean, nothin unexpected here, which is nice


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All the lifters feel and look good, prolly use them again because i know they’re good?
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First cam bearing looks and feels eh, glad those are gettin replaced
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