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I'm running a TVS2300 with a 3.1" pulley doing 10 psi of boost on the 6 rib belt system and have no belt slip issues. But I changed a couple things to help it out: Using a Gates HD Green belt, HD tensioner and a Griptec pulley. On the stock 3.4" pulley, you'll probably be fine on the 6 rib, just step up to the HD tensioner and a green HD belt.

I also ditched the stock trans lines and went AN. So much easier to route and I always hated the hard lines that came up in front of the radiator.
 

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magnuson 31-12-00-082. HD tensioner, ok, cool. ya I don't want any belt issues, gonna do my damndest to align the pulleys, for sure.
green belt, you mean like this one? I was reading in some other thread somewhere that this one was pretty good, depending on length but that's the type, yes?

K061080HD


Amazon.com: ACDelco Specialty K061080HD Heavy Duty V-Ribbed Serpentine Belt : Automotive

That tensioner of course is hard to find, I know LC32 had some for a while, lemme scour the innerwebs and see if I can source one, maybe someone has one in stock somewhere.

scott750-- you running stock bottom end? I'd imagine your tune is spot on with 10 lbs if your on the stock short block.?

and thanks burnit53 for that POC

oh one other things about the an adapters on the 70E-

did you get 1/4 NPSM to 6 an? Do yours have an o-ring sealing to the case or brass washer? I haven't taken them out yet on mine to check; I've been reading and GM switched somewhere in 06/7 or something to or from 1/4 NPSM to something else for the fittings into the trans case. conflicting information on the forums, no surprise there but I haven't checked mine yet so nbd, just thought i'd see what yours is if you have the original 2008 70e case still in it
Yes that's the green belt I got. Not sure if that size is correct. I got several different length belts to see which length was correct and put the tensioner in the middle of its range. They also make a "black supercharger" that's got stronger reenforcing fibers and stickier rubber for even more reduced belt slip, but their sizes are limited. I could not find a size that worked for mine, so I stuck with the green one that a lot of people use.

My ls2 is built and forged now with heads and boost cam. Figured at 128k miles I better rebuild the motor and put some goodies inside so it can handle the boost. I think at the 6 psi the blower comes stock with you can probably get away with a stock bottom end

The trans fitting s I got did not have an oring, but a washer. I got Russell Performance 640520 fittings. They are NPT threads


also picked up some djm drop arms new shocks all around, gonna go to 31.5, I bought the rear spring replacement kit along time ago that came with the 1" spacer from the TBSS store and they've just been sitting on the shelf since the airbag lower method worked fine thus far. I figure I leave the spacer out and I should have 31.5 in the rear. gonna sh!tcan the air system tho, it leaked a lot on the way from VA to bama, compressor was running much longer than normal etc, should have done that along time ago but eh, it wasnt broken blah blah

ya and having the wheels professionally refinished back to OEM is almost as much as 20x10 TBSS +45 FR wheels, but that can wait for a bit. think i'll just do the strip and polish thing on the oem wheels, that should be fine for now
I think that 1" spacer is go to 32.5" ride height. I just used the 31.5" springs and 2 rubber isolators on top and bottom of the springs and my height is at 31.75".


Heres the snout of the TC, it is smooth as glass btw. Hows that rate on pump engagement? Im not a trans guru. Fluid is red and t case fluid is blue, which i take as good View attachment 103288
It will be hard to tell if the converter is sitting far enough into the pump without looking at the pump gear out of the trans. Usually the converter is spaced properly when its pushed all the way into the trans and the space between the converter face and flexplate are 1/8" to 3/16". Tha'ts a general rule of thumb for spacing. You might be able to check depth by looking into the converter snout cutout where the pump gear resides. There might be a little wear mark indicating how far the pump sits. Not sure if it's suppose to go all the way or 1/8" off the bottom of that channel.
 

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Yup Gates RPM, that's it.

Do you remember if your converter was shimmed already? Its easy to check the gap using a 1/8" drill bit placed between the flexplate and converter mount lugs. But too far into the trans you risk cracking the pump, too far out and you risk stripping the teeth off the pump gear.

When I was doing my research on the 31.5" spring conversion, I was told to only get the rubber isolators for the top of the spring that contacts the frame perch, that the bottom of the spring on the axle didn't matter. I just didn't like the fact of the metal on metal of the spring and axle perch, that's why I went with isolators on top and bottom.
 

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I'm no expert but the transmission bellhousing/trans body never changes, its the converter that changes. When the converter manufacturer builds them, they have to weld the 2 halves of the converters together and that's where the difference in depths come from.
 

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I went with the AEM 30-300 wideband gauge. Super easy to read the digital display. And I agree about the white face might reflect unwanted light.


not sure why Tapatalk rotated the pic, sorry

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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Ive always used japanese branded gauges like defi and greddy. They have been solid for me, aesthetically pleasing and depending on the application the blackout face or peak/hold features have been great for me. Many have low reflection glass too

I had a bad experience with some mechanical autometer gauges in the past a very long time ago and once i went to electronic japanese gauges i never looked back. At some point needles went to TFT style but i cant stand that and i think my brain processes a needle position better than seeing a digital numeric value.

I have never heard of speedhut, but i love all the customizable options you can do! Really sweet.
So far my auto meter gauges have been solid.
In fact I was glad I installed a fuel pressure gauge. Helped me diagnose a bad Walbro 450 fuel pump that after a few months would only produce 5 psi fuel pressure.

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Don't give up on the 4L70E yet. If it's built by a competent trans shop they can live a long time. Mine has lived behind my Maggie at 615 rwhp for 3 years now without an issue. I had mine rebuilt by Phoenix Transmissions in Weatherford, TX and run a Circle D billet single disc converter.

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View attachment 103831
Ended up with 9.9-10 to 1 depending on whichever calculator you use, re the SCR. I didn’t want to lose too much pep out of boost.

Should be picking it up tomorrow from the freight terminal- look at this heat exchanger pump ‘harness’ from the magnuson kit. Really? Crimp terminals? duuuuude whaaat the effff magnuson. Need to re-do this thing, nbd
Yeah that relay is junk. Mine shorted out after a year. I replaced it with a waterproof sealed 40 amp relay from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QV54V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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