First off, the rear mount turbo system is a patent protected design. A good hard look at te patent would be necessary to effectively design around it and even then there is no guarantee of lawsuit and/or a win in court.:dunno:

Secondly, the key to boost is thermal expansion. Hot air molecules bounce around and "expand" the volume of air. Therefore, the exhaust is hottest and most expansive as it comes out of the engine and ripe for fast, consistent boost. Course it also heats up the incoming air on the turbo's intake side which requires the need for great intercooler.

STS have remote turbo placement needs a quicker spool turbo and lower grade intercooler.

 

Any updates?

 

We WOULD be working on the front y-pipe/cat pipe now which would mean the resulting twin turbo kit, except there was a delay in the cat-back that we're trying to wrap up in the next couple of weeks. But I haven't forgotten about it.

 

I am thinking about going with a single turbo setup on mine. I am going to contact a buddy and a few turbo shops and see what kind of setup I could do for a fair price.

 

Better find out what everyone considers a "fair price" first. And make sure it's stainless. And make sure you cover the AWD guys. Keep us posted.opcorn3:

 

EB3 motorsports in VA is eager to install turbo's on our trucks.. just fyi for anyone in the area.

 

Looking at this thread and it's interesting in a ton of ways. Just a couple of thoughts off the top of my head with regards to putting two turbos on a daily driver. Mind you I'm not going negative here, just trying to get input from those of you that know WAY more about turbo setups than I do.

1) 450 at the wheels on a stock bottom end equates to about 560 at the motor (factoring in a 20% drive line loss). I've heard a ton over the years about factory rod bolts having problems at or around the 550 HP mark at the motor.

2) Oiling issues. From what I've seen the LS2's on our rides spin bearings due to poor oil pan/oil system design. Throw in a couple of turbos without any type of upgrade to the oiling system and I can't see it lasting long even at low boost levels.

Keep in mind here folks that I'm a huge proponent of a package like this and I think done properly will sell quite well. (I'd be all over it too) Call me paranoid but I'm thinking that a forged bottom end and proper oil setup (Billyman's or Moroso (one in the same right???) are the key to a happy and long lasting FI future.

Fundamentally here's what I'm thinking (and I think it was mentioned above). People who will go as far as to put a twin turbo setup on a 5000 lb daily driver are rarely happy with the status quo. (I'm guilty as well, see my mod list). As soon as we get used to the power we'll want more and want to up the pressure (read upgrade). It's only a matter of time before the bottom end goes anyway so why not do that first. Just my two cents boys, good luck with the project and count me in after I forge my bottom end:cheers1:

 

The STS kits are alot cheaper now days. They make sick power and spool almost instantly with the t60-1 turbo. Our truck had one and it put down 525 rwhp 580 rwtq

 

How much was your particular kit and what did it include. Do they have a twin turbo yet like the Vettes?

 

One thing to point out, a turbo kit mounted beneath the engine on a daily driver like that setup on the previous page is set up for a problem.

The amount of heat put into a turbo is incredible, and if one of the trucks were to go thru a puddle with those turbos down there, you'd be kissing those things good bye from thermal shock.

 

Nope not true at all, it's a myth!

I have COE trucks at work with the manifold and turbos in direct weather. Nothing happens.

 

Oh dont get me wrong Im not saying that itll happen bam in one shot, but the possibility is there for it to happen, especially at weld sites. The term "budget" always brings into question the quality of welds. Welds love cracking in sudden temp changes, especially poor quality welds.

 

Oh dont get me wrong Im not saying that itll happen bam in one shot, but the possibility is there for it to happen, especially at weld sites. The term "budget" always brings into question the quality of welds. Welds love cracking in sudden temp changes, especially poor quality welds.

How DARE you, SIR!!:chair: lol

By "budget" I don't mean cutting corners...I've got a reputation to uphold you know. By budget I mean eliminating all the bells and whistles that are more fluff than substance to get a price point that does what it says. So standard systems will most likely have internal wastegates, no variable vanes, and a design that has a very limited spool range that will keep the driver from having to push the motor to RPM's over 5,500 and not require frequent down/up shifts. The latter in it of itself will factor life back into the expectancy of the motor and trans.

Re: turbo timers...the main reason is to save the shafts. I thought it was a bunch of bull and would shut down my old Cat Freightliner down soon as I parked.:doh: With only 600k on the motor, there should have been plenty of life left in the turbo, but less than 20k after I sold it...the new owner had to buy a new turbo.:dunno:

 

Im aware of the bearings and and baked on oil and etc etc etc, but theres still the possibility there of turbo failure. Relax a bit, have a beer, and just realize Im posting a POTENTIAL problem. I never said "this is going to happen, fuck what you know" I said it as throwing it out there. Chill out man.

 

BTW Steve, let me know next time you go out cruising, I've got a suction surface mount for cameras so we can get some cool Top Gear like video and in-motion pictures.

 

This is what I am looking for.

 

Very interesting indeed, nice work!

 

Y-pipe won't happen until after the new year. I was hoping for the prototype pipe this week, but it just didn't happen.

 

Gee,

Not sure what happened to your turbo, but it should never stop imediately after shutting off the ignition. Unless something else broke first, there is no way to stop a turbo that is spinning at 100,000 rpm in a split second unless it welded itself to the housing. The turbo spins freely at all times, with no connection through gears etc to the engine itself.
As for no place for the exhaust between the turbo and engine? The exhaust is not under pressure-once the engine is shut off, there is no more exhaust, so there is no pressure. On the intake side, there is a BOV. Something else went on in your eclipse.

 

Gee,

Not sure what happened to your turbo, but it should never stop imediately after shutting off the ignition. Unless something else broke first, there is no way to stop a turbo that is spinning at 100,000 rpm in a split second unless it welded itself to the housing. The turbo spins freely at all times, with no connection through gears etc to the engine itself.
As for no place for the exhaust between the turbo and engine? The exhaust is not under pressure-once the engine is shut off, there is no more exhaust, so there is no pressure. On the intake side, there is a BOV. Something else went on in your eclipse.

:iamwithstupid:

 

very interesting thread. something that can also matter is if people are only looking for a low boost then the size of the turbo can be pretty small. not to mention spool faster. people always end up putting turbos on cars that are to big. if we are looking for 10lbs max on a stock compression. what size turbo would actually best suited to max out around that? would a t3/t4 or 16g work? i know its has been stated to use new but one of them can be found for next to nothing for intial set up and mach up. i dont have the cfm charts or numbers and i do understand the difference between cfm flow as aposed to the measurement of "boost" lol but if a big 16g can throw 25+ psi through a low compression 2.0 would it support 10psi to our motor?

 

Any updates on this?