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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was on the freeway driving going about 40-50 mph when all of a sudden I noticed that the RPMs we're climbing up to 7-8 and that I had lost all "connection" with my transmission because it would no longer engage. I checked the fluid and it was unusually high. I had just changed the filter a month ago so I know that I did not fill it that much. I think the fluid in side the torque converter mixed with the new fluid because this fluid was really dirty. I dropped the pan and noticed that when I did the filter fell right out. I filtered all the fluid,put a new filter gasket ring thing in there and bolted pan back on but still no luck before I go get another transmission is there any thing else I can check or to to get my pump going again???
 

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Did you get the seal out from the old filter? If you double sealed it, it might be sucking air between them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No I left the old 1 in there when I changed the filter but after this incident I pulled the old one out and put in the new.

Is it possible that I may have pushed the filter in to far?

I can move the shifter and while the idle changes when P and N vs. D, 3, 2, 1 but still can't get any movement from the vehicle at all.

Is there a way to fill the Torque converter without taking it out?
 

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If the filter was not seated, it would not pick up fluid properly and you may have toasted a lot of things in the trans, starting with the pump. e.g. The pump doesn't get lubrication, clutches burnt, etc.

You cannot fill the convertor without removing it. Normally you fill with a qt and install it and then fill the trans, start car, run through the gears while stationary, add more fluid till full. you'll take almost a dozen or so qts when DRY. Just a pan drain and filter swap, you're looking at anywhere from 4-6 qts to top off.

If you can verify the shifter cable didn't get disconnected, which is a common failure point, and you verify you have proper fluid level when warmed up and running, and you still have no movement; you may have no choice but for a full teardown and check for failed parts internally.
 

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The pump fills the torque convertor when it's running.
 
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If the TC is coming with the used trans, it will be full enough. The amount you put in there is only to lube the bearings in the TC on initial start up of a fresh build or new TC install.. The pump in the trans will keep it full when running after that.

Be sure to blow out the cooler/lines.
 

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About cooler lines that attach to the transmission:

Ok I'm wanting to know how to connect them to which side driver or passenger and top or bottom of transmission?
I assume you're running a dedicated cooler? That is preferred and recommended. Anything 20k btu or more will do. If so, it don't matter how it's hooked up from the top or bottom port, it's a closed loop and fluid will flow one to the other, through the cooler.

If you're using the factory cooler built into the radiator, your hard lines will only fit one way so it should be easy to figure out which is which based on fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
About cooler lines that attach to the transmission:

I got them mixed up by rerouting the transmission fluid coolant lines so I'm not sure which one either the drivers side of the radiator or the passenger side of radiator which one goes on the upper connector and the lower connector on the transmission. ???????
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I assume you're running a dedicated cooler? That is preferred and recommended. Anything 20k btu or more will do. If so, it don't matter how it's hooked up from the top or bottom port, it's a closed loop and fluid will flow one to the other, through the cooler.

If you're using the factory cooler built into the radiator, your hard lines will only fit one way so it should be easy to figure out which is which based on fitment.
I'm using the factory cooler but I had to cut the lines, flare them, smoothed them and used a little bit of I
think 3/16 or 5 /16 diameter fuel hose with hose clamps and then re-routed them so thats where I got confused. It's been running fine so far I just want to know which goes where because it took me about a week to get all of everything done and I did not enjoy it so I prefer not doing a tranny swap again anytime in the near future. Thank you for your reply. But do you know which one goes where?
 

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Exact same thing happened to me a few years back. No weird sounds, no external leakage, fluid wasn't burned, etc.... just stopped connecting on the highway.

I'm my case it ended up being the pump hub fracturing into multiple pieces. I figured it out when I tore down the old box. But you can also diagnose it by hooking up a pressure Guage to the pressure port. No pressure equals dead pump. If you changed the converter and didn't seat it properly, or didn't verify clearance/ engagement to the pump lugs... I'll bet that's your problem
 

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When it happened to me on the highway at ~60mph, it turned out to be a loss of fluid thru a steel cooler line that rusted a pinhole in it. Surprised you had more fluid, not less fluid. Sounds like you'll need to pull the trans out, you lost 3rd/4th if you had it in OD...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The other day on the freeway a coolant line hose burst and leaked out all my fluid luckily I acted fast enough to not burn it out again Thank The Greater Powers that be!!! I changed the way my lines were set up filled it and it hasn't been a problem since I'm still weary though about my issues.
 

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If the TC is coming with the used trans, it will be full enough. The amount you put in there is only to lube the bearings in the TC on initial start up of a fresh build or new TC install.. The pump in the trans will keep it full when running after that.

Be sure to blow out the cooler/lines.
The bearing in the tc are lubed when they are assembled. And what in the world does "stopped engaging out" mean?
 
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