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@pete3834 thats bad! Anything over 200 is bad and at 230, something is wrong.

Tell us more about your setup. Higher stall? Using PCMofNC cooler standalone or inline to factory cooler?
Is the cooler new or used?
Why did you swap transmissions? And is this recent all of a sudden or as soon as the trans was installed?
 

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I would disagree. My transmission always ran around 235 before I put the cooler in. Temps dropped to around 210 average after the cooler. This was with the stock tranny and cam only. I drove like this for about 5 years before I put the tranny cooler in and never had an issue.

Recently I added a pro torque 3500, FLT level 7 trans. I’m now running around 215-220 average.(Stock tranny didn’t die, it still ran fine, just decided to build it when I did the stall)
Normal atf can last years. But once you are consistent over 210 you’re losing about half your fluid life and protective properties. Over 230 on a consistent basis, you should be swapping fluid yearly. I guess if it were too hot it would boil out the vent tube. Eg 250+

@pete3834 At the end of the day you may need a larger trans cooler. 30-40k btu. Lots of folks with a trucool 40k see temps around 180 even in the dessert.
 

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I did purchase a Tru-Cool 40k trans cooler as part of this build. I was told during the installation by PCMOFNC that it was a huge cooler and no good place to mount it. But the PCMOFNC brake duct cooler would be fine.
Most folks put it right behind the grill dead center behind the hood latch mechanism. Otherwise it goes lower near the lower grill in front the power steering cooler

Frankly any cooler 30k or higher is more than sufficient so you can find one that is better shaped. You could even run another 20k on the other brake duct in line to the PCMofNC unit. For about $80 bucks or there are plenty that fit the bill there
 
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