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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couldn't find much about this with a search.

Just completed rebuilding the entire front end and installed Tony's upper arms and lowered 3/4". Installed new lower control arm bushing carriers and had to reset camber as close to level as possible using a bubble level when setting hubs at ride height. (Have not yet taken it for alignment, just got close to drive it to the shop)

I also had to adjust the tie rods out about an inch on either side to correct a pretty extreme toe out. They are close enough to drive it now, but I am a little worried about how far out they are and how much thread is left in the rack side. All I did was pop them out of the spindle and never touched the adjustment on them.

Could the drop and new LCA bushing brackets have caused this sort of extreme adjustment?
 

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It has to do with how you have those lower control arm brackets installed. They’re meant to side in and out. If you had to adjust the tie rods that much then you needed to slide the control arms in further. Did you use factory brackets or aftermarket? I’ve found the aftermarket parts to be shit as far as fit and finish. Some where the castings are so bad they wouldn’t slid into the frame. Dont even get me started on Moog brand. Been there done that and gone back to all gm parts.


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The factory lower bracket in the frame rail has a single front bolt and two rearward bolts. They slide in and out as well as the front and rear independently….

If the rear bolts are in more, then the tie-rods can be adjusted as needed outwards…. Did you basically just slam those things in and thread bolts in? That would make sense to then have to adjust tierods outwards.

my car insurance has towing within 100miles. I towed my car to alignment shop, the toe was so bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It has to do with how you have those lower control arm brackets installed. They’re meant to side in and out. If you had to adjust the tie rods that much then you needed to slide the control arms in further. Did you use factory brackets or aftermarket? I’ve found the aftermarket parts to be shit as far as fit and finish. Some where the castings are so bad they wouldn’t slid into the frame. Dont even get me started on Moog brand. Been there done that and gone back to all gm parts.


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I did install the Moog lower bushing brackets. I eyeballed them next to the OE brackets and they were about as close as could be without breaking out the micrometer. I really couldn't see any difference that would have made me not use them. I was honestly pretty happy with the quality of them on install.

The factory lower bracket in the frame rail has a single front bolt and two rearward bolts. They slide in and out as well as the front and rear independently….

If the rear bolts are in more, then the tie-rods can be adjusted as needed outwards…. Did you basically just slam those things in and thread bolts in? That would make sense to then have to adjust tierods outwards.

my car insurance has towing within 100miles. I towed my car to alignment shop, the toe was so bad
I had to pull the lower brackets all the way outboard to get the proper camber. I don't know if I will have enough adjustment on the rear sliders back inwards to compensate for tie rod adjustment without hurting the camber again. Certainly worth a try.

I have been thinking about it over the past few days and am wondering if using the new upper arms that are suited for lowering might be affecting this (not saying anything bad about Tony's arms, they are nice). I have the 16mm spacers in the shock/strut assembly now, which lowered it about 3/4". I know the upper arms are made to basically slam these things up to an 1.5" or so. I am thinking if I install the 8mm spacers, that could allow the lower control arm to slide in a little bit at right height and would allow the tie rods to thread back inboard?

I should probably just go get the alignment on it and go from there. I was probably going to have them swap out the spacers to the 8mm anyways as it didn't lower it as much as I thought it would.
 

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I did a single 16mm spacer with the tubular arms and it ended up with positive camber! Im swapping back to stock arms with prothane bushings to gain back negative camber
 

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I did install the Moog lower bushing brackets. I eyeballed them next to the OE brackets and they were about as close as could be without breaking out the micrometer. I really couldn't see any difference that would have made me not use them. I was honestly pretty happy with the quality of them on install.



I had to pull the lower brackets all the way outboard to get the proper camber. I don't know if I will have enough adjustment on the rear sliders back inwards to compensate for tie rod adjustment without hurting the camber again. .
That’s crazy that you had to pull them that far out. Are you trying to get more negative camber than usual? Otherwise that’s crazy.
And when it comes to quality on the parts it wasn’t visible. More like they didn’t fit correctly for some when they installed.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That’s crazy that you had to pull them that far out. Are you trying to get more negative camber than usual? Otherwise that’s crazy.
And when it comes to quality on the parts it wasn’t visible. More like they didn’t fit correctly for some when they installed.


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Camber is just about perfectly zero at ride height with the LCA brackets pulled all the way outboard. (I hate the slammed negative camber look, I also like having the full width of my tires on the ground)

I am thinking that installing the 8mm spacers to lower it a bit more might help the situation. In theory, the LCA should have to move inboard to compensate for the negative camber as the suspension travels upwards. I just don't know if it will be enough to pull the tie rods back inboard to get more threads in the rack.

I'll try and snap some pictures this weekend when I have some time to mess around with it to show what I am talking about.

Again, All of these adjustments are just basics so I can make it drivable to the alignment shop a few miles away. It is very possible that much of this might go away on the alignment rack.
 
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