[Blades]

http://www.microdaq.com/fourier/microlite_usb_logger.php

http://www.vernier.com/probes/temperature.html

http://www.practsol.com/thum.htm

Wouldn't it shock you if our IAT sensor was actually correct? Although I believe our IAT sensor is completely fully of shit; I want to find out.

 

[BBA]

http://www.microdaq.com/fourier/microlite_usb_logger.php

http://www.vernier.com/probes/temperature.html

http://www.practsol.com/thum.htm

Wouldn't it shock you if our IAT sensor was actually correct? Although I believe our IAT sensor is completely fully of shit; I want to find out.

The IAT is correct, the heat it picks up in the air duct is because the MAF absorbs engine compartment heat and the screen on the maf conducts the heat to the incoming air flow. Of course, I used to think it was because the heated sensor element transmits heat to the air (which it does) but the significant heat comes from the screen, and that is by design, it cools the MAF electronics that way (which is the poor part of it's design)

That's why using a remotely mounted IAT (HSRK anyone) only makes the computer think the temperature in the air duct is lower than it really is, and that's worse than letting the real temperature be known, because the IAT output will save your engine from pre-ignition detonation damage in really hot weather.

To get rid of heat soak, do two things: Relocate the MAF inside the air box and remove the screen.

I opted to simply relocate mine and leave the screen so that when I take it in for service, I put it back into stock configuration and they never know. I'd hate to have my warrantee voided by an ass at a dealer just because of a MAF change.

 

[Blades]

How did you go about relocating yours? I never thought about the screen heating up the incoming air but it makes sense. I would think that with the screen off the MAF would be more sensitive to large changes in incoming air..

And yeah. You are correct about the IAT sensor.. Today the ambient temps were way way way high and I was getting KR at first until the IAT sensor heated up and did its job of pulling timing.. However, my IAT timing retard begins at 122 degrees and is less agressive than stock. In some areas I am certain that it didn't really need to pull timing but I don't feel like modifying the rpm multiplier values for the IAT table.. Could be dangerous

 

[BBA]

I got the 4" partially inverted cone power adder air filter from Pep Boys and put it directly on the MAF, then I mounted the MAF inside the air box with the filter The rubber flex on the air duct stretches plenty enough to fit the MAF inside the air box.

Made a big difference with more noise, stronger on bottom but it felt a little weaker on high RPMs. My 0-60 times were not as good as stock. I figured this was because of MAF flatlining, so I bought a 4" to 3.5" reducer from pep boys and installed it on the MAF inlet and stretched the 4" air filter over the reducer, so it still looks like the filter is directly mounted on the MAF inlet but the reducer is inside.

This reduced the noise level quite a bit and brought my high rpm power back, and my 0-60 is quicker than stock.

When I get teh HPT I plan on monitoring both IAT and trims to see what effect it really had but from seat of pants and mileage, it did benefit me quite a bit (about a 1.5 MPG increase in mileage.)

 

[Blades]

Hmmmm.. I still would love a setup like the fbodies or maybe the vettes.. Possible to suck in water with the vette setup tho.. Something should be done to make use of the extra space gained from e-fans... When I get my e-fans I am buying a new 90 deg silicone piece to get my CAI ~.75 inches to the front of the car so it won't be so clusterfuck with the rad hose. Let us know what you see with hpt.. post up a log and include ambient air temps and we'll be able to tell if its any improvement.