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The heavy chevy gets some sound

18K views 62 replies 22 participants last post by  Grocery Getter 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I have finally pieced together a system and am going to start dismantling the interior of the truck in the next day or two. Hopefully the install doesn't take more than a few days. The components are as follows:

- Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components - 6.5" and 1" tweeter
- Infinity Kappa 52.9i - 5.25" 2-way coaxial
- Infinity Perfect 10.1d - 10" sub woofer
- Alpine PDX-5 - 5 channel amplifier, 4x75W + 1x300W
- 3x StreetWires ZN7 - 5 meters
- 25ft 4GA Power and 5ft 4Ga ground
- 75 sq. ft RAAMmat BXT II and 84 sq. ft. Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick

I don't have any speaker adapters (do I need them?) and will just be using the factory wiring. I am going to build a custom fiberglass enclosure in the back right for the sub, but that will be in a few weeks when I get the supplies.

I have seen the guide on ss-shootout.com and have done a fair bit of browsing on here and trailvoy, but if anyone has any tips on wiring, speaker install, sound deadening, etc advice is greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know if I will be able to snake 4 ga. through the firewall grommet? I really don't want to cut a hole in it.

I will update this thread as I go along.


 
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#9 ·
If your interested in a pic, PM me a cell and I will text you a pic of how I did my sub. I removed the rear storage tray hatch cover, and put a board across the rear floor for my sub. Then covered it in fabric close to stock carpeting. It hits super deep due to the air volume, almost aproaches free air resonance. Worked great for my Alpine 12" type R sub. Mounted the amps to the rear seats.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the offer. I have weighed that option, but I am going to put it on the right side. It is a 10" and will go in a sealed .6ft^3 enclosure (very small). I want tight, clean bass, nothin to big. I saw the pics on ss-shootout.com that sounds similar to yours though, looks awesome.


Can't remember if I went through the steering boot or not, under the door sills to the back

Sounds good. Thanks. I just remembered that when the PO had an aftermarket remote start put in, the boys in blue at best buy hacked up the grommet already. So I will get it through one way or another.

What I reommend is patiance.. I know when I couldn't find a way to do something I ened up breaking it.. and what is this running off, stock stereo?
Thanks for the advice. I have until at least next tuesday before I need to drive it, so time is on my side. I will be patient with it. I forgot to mention that I have an AVIC-X920BT that this will connect to...
 
#11 ·
What I reommend is patiance.. I know when I couldn't find a way to do something I ened up breaking it.. and what is this running off, stock stereo?
 
#13 · (Edited)
I pulled quite a few panels off and made some progress tonight. Started test fitting the speakers to see what kind of fabrication will be required. The rears went right in and look OEM practically. The fronts will require some cutting, glueing, etc to make the woofer and tweeter fit, but it shouldn't be too difficult. This BOSE shit sucks...

Crappy bose:

The rears:


The front woofer:

Quick mockup:
 
#16 ·
Hey guys,

Making progress. I think the most difficult part for me will be will be the sound deadening and sub enclosure, as I have no experience with either. The wiring comes naturally to me. I pulled out the bose amp and the PDX-5 is only slightly larger. Pretty crazy they pack 600+ watts into that little package. I think I will put the PDX right where to bose amp went and am contemplating whether to put the bose back in at all. What all do i lose? Just on star? more?

 
#18 · (Edited)
Well I am using a GMOS-04 and decided to keep the amp as well, so I should have everything functioning. I finished the harness today and also got the power and signal run, and got the amp mounted. The PDX amps use little speaker wire terminals which I just attached directly to the factory harness and put the PDX and Bose amp right next to each other.





 
#22 ·
:cheers1:Looks good man.
The new amp in the stock factory location looks great!
Question. I have seen people get the remote turn on lead from the rear fuse box, did u do this? If so what fuse did you tap and did you replace with a bigger fuse?
 
#23 · (Edited)
I just went ahead and ran a turn on lead and a ground lead from the front to the rear with with the signal wires. There is definitely a turn on for the factory amp somewhere in there though.

Does anyone know if the ground lead will help? Basically I am worried about engine noise with the AVIC and PDX. What I have done is take the ground from all 3 signal wires at the front and grounded them with the ground lead for the radio, parking break and bypass, etc, to the factory ground on the harness from the Axxess GMOS. I have also connected a lead from here and run it to the back and connected it to the ground on the amplifier. I did this just in case it was a good idea as I didn't want to have to it later. Is this logical or not? I won't know until the engine is running, but any tips to get rid of ground loops and engine noise?
 
#28 ·
So I cut the wire from the harness and grounded it right behind the radio. Attached to this ground I have the radio ground, the stuff for the bypass, as well as the ground from all 3 signal cables (RCA). I have the little wire between the radio and amp disconnected for now, but can reconnect it later if it ends up helping. Haven't started the truck yet so hoping for no noise! I finished up with the sound deadening. Below are a few more pics. Everything is done except for the sub. Got the fiberglass coming Wednesday. I am going to put in the cubby in the right rear but have no idea how yet. I think I may cut up the wheel well cover shroud thing (big piece, probably $$$ to replace later if needed), but it is the best way I can think of for now. Then I would have access to some metal to mount the enclosure. It will be small, .6 ft^3, and will house the one 10" kappa perfect. Any tips on how to mount or any ideas on the best way to have it stay compact and flush and sturdy? Thanks guys!





 
#35 · (Edited)
I have done a little brain storming about the sub. I think I should have plenty of room. Rough box dimensions will be 12"x12"x8" with a little taper. 12x12x8 = 1152 cu in vs recommended 1036.8 cu in. * 11x11x8 is 968. So somewhere around there should be good. I think I will use a few "L" brackets along the metal interior behind the plastic shroud and fiberglass onto em to secure it. Below are some sketches and a data sheet on the sub. Any input/creativity is appreciated.*





Pdf for perfect 10.1d:

http://db.tt/CLrB2p5S
 
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