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TrailblazerSS
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Is there enough room to swap the valve springs with the head installed, or is it easier to just pull the head?
 

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TrailblazerSS
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You can do it by airing up the cylinder with both valves closed. Remove spark plug and put air in there.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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TrailblazerSS
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you dont need to put air in the cylinders. Just put the piston at top dead center for the cylinder you are doing the valves on.
 

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I'm with this guy. ^^^^^^ Air takes too long!
 

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needs moar powa
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The air method worked well for me , I just purchased a cheap compression test kit and put a air hose quick disconnect at the other end.
I recommend you buy the rocker bolt style spring compressor tool , the style with the knob at the top that you turn is junk.

I have the dual spring compressor, but wish I got the single. If one set of retainer locks seats but the other spring doesn't, you need to redo both springs once you tighten the compressor back down.

Now 1 year later I'm thinking of pulling the heads anyways to upgrade, so plan ahead before you do anything
 

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TrailblazerSS
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I have the dual spring compressor, but wish I got the single. If one set of retainer locks seats but the other spring doesn't, you need to redo both springs once you tighten the compressor back down.
Lol i swear that happened to me on every set of springs i've done with the dual compressor. Pissed me off so much.

Another tip, be careful with the locks. I use a pen magnet to grab them when taking them off. Putting a little vasoline on your fingers helps when you re install them so they dont drop. I usually buy a few extra locks beforehand just in case i drop a few.
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Do it with heads on truck, not too bad just takes some time. Air method works well or cylinder at top, that's a lot of cranking on the balancer bolt though, unless you know whats up when, it can be confusing for a novice. I used to use the single spring tool I copied and made myself from a guy back in the fbody days, but recently I bought the new dual Comp dual valve spring tool, works very well. Using a screwdriver to center each spring before putting locks on makes installing them much easier and avoids getting one lock on and not the other.. Either way just take your time and be careful putting on the new valve guide seals...
 
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TrailblazerSS
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I do it with the heads on and all the plugs removed, then i drop a 1 foot long 1/8 welding rod down into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. I hold the rod as i rotate the crank until i feel it push the piston to top dead center. Takes about 1 hour start to finish
 

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If ur removing the plugs anyways, use the air! Not worth the risk IMO.
 

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TrailblazerSS
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The only issue with using air is that if you are removing the valve locks with a valve spring compressor and the spring compresses and pulls the valve down with it and then pops free the valve will drop. Imo the only way to do it without risk is to have each piston at top dead center while removing the springs.
 

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The only issue with using air is that if you are removing the valve locks with a valve spring compressor and the spring compresses and pulls the valve down with it and then pops free the valve will drop. Imo the only way to do it without risk is to have each piston at top dead center while removing the springs.

If you see the valve is dropping down as you start to compress the spring , a slight tap will release it and you can continue to compress.

You can't realy remove the locks if both the spring and the valve start to drop down so it's pretty dummy proof
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Both valves need to be closed when using air. Since you have to turn it over to do that I like to put the piston up and use air also.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Both valves need to be closed when using air. Since you have to turn it over to do that I like to put the piston up and use air also.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I have Never needed to turn over engine when using compressed air to do springs? Been doing it for many years and have not had a problem. I guess it may be a safety precaution but unneccassary.. Whether doing 1 spring or 2 springs makes no difference. I guess if you were using a very weak compressor you might run into a problem, but doubt it...
 

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I put it up just to be safe but that's just me. There isn't a need to. I do them 1 at a time. I know you could just pull the rockers and do one bank at a time but that's the way I was taught.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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You may as well do the valvesprings with the head on the truck. It would take more time to pull the heads and then swap, and you would incur more cost with gaskets and bolts. Not to mention you have a good change of snapping off an exhaust mani bolt in the process and picking a fight with trying to extract it.

TDC method or air is great. I tend to prefer the former, as it gets exciting when an air line fitting blows off somewhere and that cylinder loses pressure and the valves go 'tink tink' if you're not at TDC. :)
 

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TrailblazerSS
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I tried it with the head on and off. I had a retainer come apart so I had to go searching for it. I did the springs on that head with the head off. The other head, I tried using the air method, but only had a very small compressor and it wouldn't hold them close. Plus, trying to get my big arm/hand in there to screw in the hose was a real PITA. So I ended up just doing the TDC method and finished the other 3 cylinders on that head in as much time as it took me to do one with air.

May wanna get a couple extra valve locks. Those things are a PITA to try and find if they fall when you are trying to remove/install them and the do the 'Tink Tink' down in the engine compartment.
 

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May wanna get a couple extra valve locks. Those things are a PITA to try and find if they fall when you are trying to remove/install them and the do the 'Tink Tink' down in the engine compartment.

Yup^ those locks are magical , when they fall out of your fingers they never seem to hit the ground but can't be found anywhere else hahah
 
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