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Garage Queen
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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy folks... Been a while.

I've been stock piling parts and keeping quiet while doing months and months and months of research on here, gmtnation, trailvoy, Tim's tech pages, multiple fb posts and DM'ing people on social media. There has been a buzz on fb lately over steering wheels and bringing back the Grant wheel or adding steering wheel buttons. So i took the plunge and successfully swapped my 1SS steering wheel, with a functioning steering wheel with buttons. Through all of my research, pretty much all of the "important info" was lost, meaning articles were deleted, or members that did do this swap couldn't remember what wires did what, or the "OG's" that did this in the beginning of our platform did not swap steering wheels and just used a stationary box that contained 4 switches or the TBM vendor supplied Trailblazer Dash Plug that was modded to fit the buttons to toggle the prompts. So I'm going to solve that now and make an updated version for future people that want to tackle this mod.

This is a very easy and straight forward mod. Don't overthink it like i did. If you don't feel you're mechanically inclined, then this mod is not for you as you're dealing with electronics, airbags, and clock springs. For how to's on removing your air bag and steering wheel, there are plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do this so it will save me the typing lol.

Next, you will need a Steering wheel with buttons. You don't necessarily need the 3SS wheel if you don't mind plain leather over the perforated design that we have in the SS. What i mean is, you have a plethora of choices out there as they used our steering wheel for many many platforms. Silverado's, Tahoe's, Escalade's, Hummer's, Envoy's, Rainier's, Bravada's, Saab's, and of course Trailblazer's all have the same exact steering wheel.
Mine came from a 2002 Bravada that i found on eBay. I didn't care what the buttons looked like as i was replacing them anyway and upgrading to LED's. I only cared about the leather. Next you will then need a clock spring from any vehicle that has a steering wheel with buttons. Mine came from a 2007 Rainier. Make sure you're keeping the clock spring straight at all times so you dont spin it and break it. You DO NOT need the WHOLE harness. You can cut the harness in half leaving you with only 4 plugs, 3 for the airbag, and one for the steering wheel buttons. You'll see what i mean in the pix. After you have all that, next are the pins to the gauge cluster harness. You will need to add 4 pins with wires to your cluster wire harness. The 1SS folks do not have these wires coming from our cluster harness. I just cut the cluster harness from the Rainier i got the clock spring from and used 4 pins out of that. Again, you'll see that in the pix.

Here's the important info that everyone gets hung up on and that took me forever to test and research, WHAT WIRE DOES WHAT and WHERE TO CONNECT them... The 4 wires you add to your cluster harness are labeled A8, A9, A10, and A11...

A8 is fuel on the cluster harness and will go to the yellow wire on the clock spring harness
A9 is personalization on the cluster and goes to the purple wire on the clock spring
A10 is trip on the cluster harness and goes to the dark blue wire on the clock spring
A11 is select/ok on the cluster harness and goes to the orange w/black stripe on the clock spring

The radio control wires on the clock spring are the pink and green wires. I have not hooked this up yet but will in the next few days as i just got my Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control harness, but from my research, it will tie into the Pink wire on the clock spring harness. If you have a factory radio, the volume/source buttons will not work or I should say it takes a lot more to get them working over an aftermarket radio. You have to get your BCM reprogrammed to a 3SS vin and run extra wiring from the clock spring to your BCM under the rear seat, but even then it's not promised that the volume buttons will work.


Next is the black wire from the clock spring. It's obviously a ground and will need to be grounded. Lastly is the brown w/white stripe wire with the 2amp inline fuse. This is your illumination wire for the buttons and must get spliced into the brown w/white wire from your left headlight harness (if you're looking at the face of your headlight harness, it's the harness behind the parking light'headlight switch, not the harness behind the fog light button if you have one).

This is a brief overview of what I did. Since I've never had steering wheel controls, I dont know what button does what haha. Meaning if I hit a certain button, is it supposed to bring up certain info? Or did i cross a wire but still have all buttons working? That type of stuff. I hit the button with the fuel pump on it and my gas mileage and fuel range popped up. I hit the trip button and the timer popped up, so that tells me I had the right wire for those etc...

Anyway, hope this helps anyone who wants to tackle this :cheers1:
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
here are some more pix with some better details. The one of the headlight harness. I circled where i initially found the brown w/white wire. This made my steering wheel lights stay on constantly. The arrow shows the harness where you need to tap the brown w/white stripe wire. Next is the left over clock spring harness that doesn't need to be used. See all of those connections that i cut off? Next is the 4 wires coming from the instrument cluster harness that gets tied into the clock spring harness, then some random shots of the different messages on the DIC. Again, hope this helps anyone trying this in the future.
 

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Awesome my dude, let me know what you figure out on the audio controls... that’s the part I’m stuck on now. I’m assuming we need to connect a wire from the pink wire coming from the clockspring and connect it to the ASWC-1 somewhere?
 

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Awesome my dude, let me know what you figure out on the audio controls... that’s the part I’m stuck on now. I’m assuming we need to connect a wire from the pink wire coming from the clockspring and connect it to the ASWC-1 somewhere?
correct. Assuming you have an aftermarket radio, you have to give power to the pink wire off of the clock spring (i used the white wire off of the rear wiper switch) and then the green wire gets ran to the interface of the steering wheel controls.
 

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In order to get the buttons working on the steering wheel, this is what needs to happen. Ive done this on two TB's now, and have been successful both times.

- New clockspring with the radio control option
- New steering wheel (duh)
- Cluster with DIC

You will need to run 4 wires to the cluster from the under steering wheel connector on the clockspring. These are the ONLY wires needed to use the bottom four buttons on the steering wheel. Assuming you have the DIC cluster, this will work

You need to run a wire to the cluster backlights, ignition and back to the rear BCM, and a ground....all to the underwheel connector. I have the pinouts somewhere, but if you have a manual, it should be obvious.

THEN...in order to get the stereo controls to work, you have to reprogram the BCM with a calibration file for a truck with the steering wheel controls. You run the risk of having to reprogram the security, radio, ABS/stability control systems after you recalibrate. IF you programmed the BCM, you can reprogram the rest of it and set it up with the TechII.

Voila! All buttons work. Im 99% sure your factory radios come with the ability to use this built in.....it just needs the correct programming in the BCM.

If you can get the Class2 stereo controls to work....then you can use them to run an aftermarket radio as well, assuming they have the steering wheel control compatibility.

If you are using an aftermarket radio, you MAY be able to just run the one wire to the aftermarket unit instead of the BCM and bypass all the programming. Many aftermarket units can interpret the different voltages from the different buttons and allocate them to any function you want.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #6
Pretty much what i did. No need to run wires to the BCM. If you have an aftermarket radio, just one wire to the interface and you have steering wheel audio controls. The need for the BCM is only for factory head units. Then you get into the reprogramming etc...
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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the blue leds actually look pretty good. nice. definitely have to do all or nothing, the mix-match interior lighting hurts my face
Thx man. I have since changed it up. I took out my A pillar gauge pod and removed my rear wiper switch. I put my fuel pressure gauge where the SS dash plug was at and i put my trans temp gauge where the wiper switch was at, then i have Trevor's vent pod and have the aero force gauge there... nice and clean now instead of the ricer look of the pillar pod
 

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correct. Assuming you have an aftermarket radio, you have to give power to the pink wire off of the clock spring (i used the white wire off of the rear wiper switch) and then the green wire gets ran to the interface of the steering wheel controls.
That’s what I thought... now, which wire on the aswc-1 module does that green wire get hooked to? And yes I am running an aftermarket radio.

Also, I talked to Tim the other day and he was talking about having to program those buttons as a 2000 Grand Prix so that they’ll work correctly, is that what you had to do?
 
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