Chevy Trailblazer SS Forum banner
21 - 40 of 144 Posts
Holy com-BUST-ion chamber! [emoji106]

~Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines~
 
Did you go with stock rod bolts or the ARP's for the cracked style rods?

I'm still deciding along with where to get stock main and head bolt replacements
 
Did you go with stock rod bolts or the ARP's for the cracked style rods?

I'm still deciding along with where to get stock main and head bolt replacements
I know you didn't ask me but I used ls3 rod bolts in mine. A lot cheaper than arp. I've read a few stories about how arp bolts torque the rods out of round and kill the bearings. I know it's true because it's on the Internet. Lol
 
I know you didn't ask me but I used ls3 rod bolts in mine. A lot cheaper than arp. I've read a few stories about how arp bolts torque the rods out of round and kill the bearings. I know it's true because it's on the Internet. Lol
Yep they need to be checked no matter what bolt you use. Mine are getting checked with the ARP bolts tomorrow since I just found myths online also.

If they are out of round..back to drawing board lol
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Did you go with stock rod bolts or the ARP's for the cracked style rods?

I'm still deciding along with where to get stock main and head bolt replacements
Im going to be sticking with the stock L76 rod bolts.

For head bolts I just picked up some Victor Reinz GS33449 since I'm using their gasket sets anyway.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
so its been a few days since I've been able to make a worthwhile update, most of the significant parts I needed to start assembling the new engine arrived last Friday, over the weekend I cleaned, prepped and swapped all the pistons and rods to their new homes, checked the rings and got those installed on Saturday.

I was hoping to get the entire bottom end assembled yesterday, but unfortunately I only had a couple hours to work with so I only got to check the crank bearing clearances, then get the crank and main caps installed.

I had more time today so i was able to get all the pistons installed, along with the cam, timing chain, new chain damper, center the Melling oil pump and install that, and finally modifying and installing the windage tray.

Next I started working on the oil pan so that was finished and ready to go when needed. I added a baffle behind the relocated pickup tube before tweaking and welding in the splash trays.

Last thing I was able to do today was repair the right side engine mount bracket, install them and swap over the engine block heater since it was an original option on the truck.





don't mind my crappy welds, or grinds for that matter, I wasn't using my machine and I haven't TIG'd anything in over a year.




 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Pulled the right side of the different apart today and found what was previously mentioned about the nubs, looks like mine are about half worn. Going to see if I can install some new dowels, either aluminum or steel if I can achieve a good press fit.



 
That's what I suspected you'd find. I'm glad you took the time to check it out, and it appears your thrust washer was fully spinning since it wore that mark into it. the nubs don't fully engage the washer (asinine design)

I have a bag of steel dowels here but haven't tried to press them into mine yet. I was worried about how much housing thickness there is to work with, but red loctite should hold.
 
Pulled the right side of the different apart today and found what was previously mentioned about the nubs, looks like mine are about half worn. Going to see if I can install some new dowels, either aluminum or steel if I can achieve a good press fit.



What do the splines of the intermediate shaft look like?

~Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines~
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
That's what I suspected you'd find. I'm glad you took the time to check it out, and it appears your thrust washer was fully spinning since it wore that mark into it. the nubs don't fully engage the washer (asinine design)

I have a bag of steel dowels here but haven't tried to press them into mine yet. I was worried about how much housing thickness there is to work with, but red loctite should hold.
Yeah I just pulled it apart at the end of the day so I spent zero time at actually looking at possible solutions, but I'll be doing that tomorrow for sure, right after I extract a broken exhaust manifold bolt from the left cylinder head.

What do the splines of the intermediate shaft look like?
All of the splines are good, both on the intermediate shaft and the CV shafts.
 
You do know the only thing that comes out of Texas is steers and queers........
Btw, have you figured out the brand of plastic baggie, color to label the bag and which one is left and right when under the truck on your back attempting to seal up those rear O2 wires?? Just wondering....

~Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines~
 
I need a large hole drilled.....like 4.25"
 
Farva, in a nutshell.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jake747
Discussion starter · #36 ·
wow, look at all the fun you miss when you're busy working on shit.

anyway, back to the regularly scheduled program, this is my solution to the worn down nubs in the diff carrier.

I went through a bunch of different things in my head and even changed them 3 or 4 times while I was at the hardware store, but ultimately settled on buying some 10-32 x 3/8" stainless set screws, and I figured if 4 was kinda good enough to do the job before, 8 would be better!

After cleaning, marking, center punching, drilling and tapping the holes, I installed the set screws with some red thread locker and will allow it to fully cure before packing and reassembling.

Total cost : $4.00

 
That's a different idea. Thaks for posting the pic
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
That's a different idea. Thaks for posting the pic
thanks, I figured someone would either give me crap about it (seems like there is always one on every forum) or say basically what you did. I didn't have the time to look up and see what other people had done, I know you mentioned a few things, but this just seemed to be a simple, strong and cost effective way to do what it needs to do and probably 8x stronger than GM's casting nubs.

Oh, and thanks to the Mods/Admins that cleaned the garbage chatter from the thread, I appreciate it.

Here's the pics with the washer installed;



did some work on the engine too, finally got both heads on, front and rear covers, oil pan, valve covers, balancer and some other small bits.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Well, I didn't get the engine in today, but that should be the first thing that happens on Monday. Today I fought with replacing 4 of 5 seals in the front diff. I would have replaced all 5, except the GM # does not cross correctly to the SKF seal so I didn't change the inboard drivers side seal. Thankfully I noticed before pulling the old seal and the old one was in good condition and didn't leak before.



I got everything bolted to the engine, replaced 2 studs on right manifold, cleaned up the compressor, installed a new tensioner and AC belt, and finally the motor mounts.

I also tackled the PS lines, been dreading that job but knew I wanted to do it before the engine went in.



 
Making some quick progress! What was the best way to remove the seals on the diff? I did the carrier but hit them out from the inside.
 
21 - 40 of 144 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top