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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #1
Every place I've talked to about installing a cam is pricing a melling high volume oil pump and recommending I have one installed. Do I really need one? I have a crate motor that has less than 3,000 miles on it. I could see if I had a 100,000 miles on my motor, but it's a fresh crate motor. Do you all think I should opt for the new pump? I already have the oil relocation kit installed from PCMofNC so my oiling issues should be taken care of.

Next is price of labor. What's everyone paying to have a cam installed and head work done? I'm getting the Brian tooley deluxe installation kit from pcm and a custom grind cam and the average around me to install everything is $935. Does that sound right? Everyone I always talk to never tells me what they paid for labor. it's not like I'm asking for your cam specs (as I'm not going to give out mine haha) just making sure I'm not getting ripped off...
 

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Midgets with hammers
'06 TBSS AWD
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15,999 Posts
That sounds about right for labor costs maybe even a little lower than my area. As far as the pump is concerned, yes I absolutely would add the Melling pump or at minimum the P&P LS6 pump. Both are comparable.
 

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Premium Member
TrailblazerSS
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3,505 Posts
I'd pay $935 for that job plus parts. Definitely would do the melling pump while there too.

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yea, I'll be supplying the parts. Just didn't know about the oil pump...

So here's my break down in pricing...

Going to contact lt1z to custom spec me a cam and I believe he charges $399

Brian tooley deluxe install kit with the '07 conversion $553.99

Melling high volume oil pump $155

And then $935 for labor puts me at $2042.99. Then for a dyno tune, this specific performance shop charges $650. That sounds kinda high to me for tuning. I'll also be going with a Circle D 3200 stall.
 

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Premium Member
2007 TBSS AWD
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31,502 Posts
Yea, I'll be supplying the parts. Just didn't know about the oil pump...

So here's my break down in pricing...

Going to contact lt1z to custom spec me a cam and I believe he charges $399

Brian tooley deluxe install kit with the '07 conversion $553.99

Melling high volume oil pump $155

And then $935 for labor puts me at $2042.99. Then for a dyno tune, this specific performance shop charges $650. That sounds kinda high to me for tuning. I'll also be going with a Circle D 3200 stall.


I can sell you all of the above in one package if you want me to quote it out.
 

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Premium Member
TrailblazerSS
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1,569 Posts
Do that^^^^^. And I would definitely do the melling pump while you're in there.
 
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Midgets with hammers
'06 TBSS AWD
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15,999 Posts
$650 for a dyno tune isn't that outta whack to me. Typical toon is about tree fitty. My local shop charges $150 to strap down on the dyno and $150/hr for time on it. :2cents:
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'll be pm'ing you soon then Matt.

One shop quoted me $750 for the dyno, and now this one $650. So that sounds about right then. But hopefully it doesnt take too long to dial her in on the dyno. I'm buying my tranny in the spring 2016. So I just need my stock one to hold out on the dyno and the way home lol. No plans to race it this year until I get the trans.
 

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Premium Member
'08 Silver TBSS
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4,534 Posts
Just to reiterate what others have said above, yes do the Melling high volume pump. Stock oil pump puts out maybe 40 psi cold and can get as low as 25 with hot oil idling. The Melling will be around 60 psi with cold oil and 40+ psi when everything is hot. Better oil pressure to keep everything happy.
 
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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #10
Yea I'm definitely doing the pump now after hearing everyone's input. Everything is going to be torn apart anyway so it's a no brainer now.
 

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07 TrailblazerSS
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7 Posts
Just my opinion, but if you're trying to save money on the tune, I'd contact PCM of NC or someplace similar that designs cams and tunes in house on a dyno. When I ordered my cam from them, I was going to do the same and build a tune, and was skeptical of a "canned tune". I ordered a tune from them with a very detailed order/ tune sheet, and I'm happy with it, it's run great now for about 3k miles, plugs look good...
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #12
I thought about that since Ive been dealing with PCM since I started modding my truck. I have their brake duct trans cooler, 4" one piece fwi, LS7 MAF, 2 relay harness electric fan setup, their mail order tune from when I first bought the truck, NGK plugs, and a 160* tstat.

I just installed headers last month and had them patch up my tune for me to get me on the road. so I know I'm leaving some hp on the table by not doing a dyno or street tune. After the cam swap, I'm going to want a dyno tune to really dial her in for the first time since owning her. Unless of course funds dictate otherwise lol
 

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TrailblazerSS
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26 Posts
In regards to the Melling high volume oil pump, I would NOT recommend it. I have background in engine building for numerous racing classes and with a stock oil pan, you can risk lowering the oil level to a dangerous level at high RPMs. Plus with the bad design of the stock oil pan (especially on the AWD that is difficult to upgrade), this makes the situation even worse. However if you are able to add a couple of quarts on a modified oil pan, then the high volume oil pump would be a wise upgrade.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #15
Just shoot him a pm and he'll help you out. Awesome to deal with and I'll be placing my order as soon as funds allow
 

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Premium Member
2007 AWD 3SS
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8,588 Posts
I have no idea why high volume oil pumps would be needed anymore. Back in the day with old smallblock's, when it was hard to keep good oil pressure, it made sense.

I've yet to see an LS2 that could not hold oil pressure with the stock pump. A high volume pump will only stress the relief valve and spring while the bypassed flow wastes engine power while foaming the oil.
 

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TT AWD TBSS Jeep
TT AWD SS Pwrd Jeep
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5,825 Posts
It may not apply to this build, but I went with a high volume AND high pressure pump due to the added oil going to the TT will dramatically reduce pressure at idle. Even with the single turbo, oil pressure on the stock pump was only 10psi at idle in gear when hot. But went to 40-50 when warm depending on temp. I think the reason most want to do high volume is the safety margin.

As to the high volume draining the pan, keep in mind even the stock pump once running lowers the oil level by 2qts per billyman. Thus the reason why I support 8qts instead of 6, as it leaves the oil at the full mark on the dipstick 8qts puts the oil on the top of the last kink in dipstick on my truck, and my wifes 04 Envoy.

I have no idea why high volume oil pumps would be needed anymore. Back in the day with old smallblock's, when it was hard to keep good oil pressure, it made sense.

I've yet to see an LS2 that could not hold oil pressure with the stock pump. A high volume pump will only stress the relief valve and spring while the bypassed flow wastes engine power while foaming the oil.
 

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Premium Member
TrailblazerSS
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2,200 Posts
Well I guess I have it all wrong with my

melling high volume pump. But then again my oil change is 9 qts without the accusump and 12 with so I am not too worried about it. By the way my oil pressure is super consistent at 50lbs and the accusump has never gone off once. WOT it hits about 55.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Going to bump my old thread here since I'm in the market for the cam swap now... keep in mind my crate motor only has 5,000 miles on it.

As with anything else mechanic related, I'm getting 20 different opinions from 30 different people lol.. .

For the toss up, the oil pump & timing chain. Reading back in the is thread, some say yay, some say nay as to swapping pumps. With more people cammed now, what's everyone's thoughts? I already have the pcm oil relocation kit installed and I run 7 qts of oil. What about the timing chain? With so few miles on the motor, is it necessary to swap a new one?

I've even had some shops tell me that new push rods aren't needed.

So I guess my questions are...

When you did your cam swap, what did you install and what cam kits did you use? What did you keep? How many miles are your motors at the time of swaps? And how'd the setup held up for you?

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