Quick.. do you trust those cheapy orbital buffers?
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hand only
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Wax On, Wax Off
or these guys will be on your ass
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BEST LINE IN THAT MOVIE COMES IN AT 3:55
http://youtube.com/watch?v=4NfkH3Q4JOQ
i've got one i bought at walmart for $20 like 5 years ago. still works like a charm at removing wax. i put the wax on, and by the time i get done putting the wax on the whole vehicle it's time to start taking it off. then i take a towel and knock a majority of the residue off. then i follow up with the orbital to really get it off. i change the bonnet about half way through the job because that wax gets on the bonnet and i think it might scratch it. that stuff feels kinda rough after it cakes on there.
and i haven't had any noticeable scratches from wax removal with it
and i haven't had any noticeable scratches from wax removal with it
These are the step to taking care of your paint
1st: a nice good hand wash & dry.
2nd: clay bar the whole truck, its very easy, this will remove debris and contaminants that washing and polishing can’t like, embedded grains of metal, tree sap, airborne environmental deposits and paint overspray.
3rd: use a polisher with a light cutting pad & a good Pre Wax Cleaner (step one) to remove oxidized paint, old wax buildup and other contaminants, let the machine do all the work & work it in really good over lapping your strokes, then use only a MICROFIBER cloth to remove.
4th: use the same polisher with a polishing pad & a Sealer/glaze/polish (step 2) which fills and hides minor swirls and defects, this step is what make the paint shine. Then remove with MICROFIBER cloth.
5th: this is last step, WAX. You can apply this on by hand or with the polisher using a finishing pad, & you can apply as many coats of this as you want, this is only to protect all the work you just did, & also remove with a MICROFIBER cloth.
Remember to let the polisher do all the work, no need to press hard. When applying each step you know you've apply enough when the product becomes all most transparent looking. A really good polisher is a Porter Cable 7424, you can find it on ebay, its pretty popular & as for the product you can use any kind you want, i like to use Mothers.
Also alot of good step by step vids on youtube if you need more help.
Hope that help bro...Peace...
:cheers1:
1st: a nice good hand wash & dry.
2nd: clay bar the whole truck, its very easy, this will remove debris and contaminants that washing and polishing can’t like, embedded grains of metal, tree sap, airborne environmental deposits and paint overspray.
3rd: use a polisher with a light cutting pad & a good Pre Wax Cleaner (step one) to remove oxidized paint, old wax buildup and other contaminants, let the machine do all the work & work it in really good over lapping your strokes, then use only a MICROFIBER cloth to remove.
4th: use the same polisher with a polishing pad & a Sealer/glaze/polish (step 2) which fills and hides minor swirls and defects, this step is what make the paint shine. Then remove with MICROFIBER cloth.
5th: this is last step, WAX. You can apply this on by hand or with the polisher using a finishing pad, & you can apply as many coats of this as you want, this is only to protect all the work you just did, & also remove with a MICROFIBER cloth.
Remember to let the polisher do all the work, no need to press hard. When applying each step you know you've apply enough when the product becomes all most transparent looking. A really good polisher is a Porter Cable 7424, you can find it on ebay, its pretty popular & as for the product you can use any kind you want, i like to use Mothers.
Also alot of good step by step vids on youtube if you need more help.
Hope that help bro...Peace...
:cheers1:
I have that same one. Can't say enough good things about the porter cable. Bought it from this link:
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com/Porter Cable Specials.htm
As far as clay bar.....try "clay magic". Great stuff
Although this really doesn't answer your question does it Alvin?
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If anyone would like to use Mother's car car products such as waxes, clay bars, etc. Check out ultimatesynthetics.com as we sell Mother's products as well as Amsoil...
http://ultimatesynthetics.com
http://ultimatesynthetics.com
good link, but they're on ebay for $50 cheaper.
Alvin, the orbital buffers will do the job & shouldn't hurt your paint, but with the 7424 the work is alot easier & the job will come out alot better. Just don't use those high speed polisher/grinder style buffer, those can burn your paint.
Mike G, your so rite bro, i have tried alot of products & mothers has always done a great job, the mother chrome polish with the power ball or power ball mini work amazing on my 22's & amazing on glass & plastics like headlights & tailights.
:cheers1:
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120 Posts
Got some zaino I am going to give a go here, waxed, the gf's car with that Meguiar's generation nxt and it looked real nice but didn't last long. Gonna try and give her car and the trailblazer a real good coat of wax this weekend or next see how much of a difference I notice fromt he meguiar's products I am used too.
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116 Posts
I use a porter cable DA with the sonus attachment and foam pads. Full, polish and application of sealer as well as removal with microfiber covers. Never scratched a bit.
I'll post pics a little later.
Steps,
wash with dawn uncented soap
claybar (scratches the shit out of the paint but takes ALL contaminents off and leaves surface spotless and crystal clear) I usually use the soap and water mixture instead of the spray they give you. then wash again when finished.
Polish (I always use a no.7 polish a little abrasive and enough cut to smooth over the clear but not enough to dig to deep even on the highest setting)
I usually wash the truck to remove the polish instead of trying to scrub it off dry.
finally after i polish 2 times usually apply 3 thin coats of DER shiny stuff. It's great, acrilic is great stuff and lasts for a long time.
all of this is done in about 3-4 hours depending on how many breaks i take and all without breaking a sweat cause i use the DA. I only hand wipe after all is said and done to make sure i get the polish and sealer out of any creavices.
good luck.
I'll post pics a little later.
Steps,
wash with dawn uncented soap
claybar (scratches the shit out of the paint but takes ALL contaminents off and leaves surface spotless and crystal clear) I usually use the soap and water mixture instead of the spray they give you. then wash again when finished.
Polish (I always use a no.7 polish a little abrasive and enough cut to smooth over the clear but not enough to dig to deep even on the highest setting)
I usually wash the truck to remove the polish instead of trying to scrub it off dry.
finally after i polish 2 times usually apply 3 thin coats of DER shiny stuff. It's great, acrilic is great stuff and lasts for a long time.
all of this is done in about 3-4 hours depending on how many breaks i take and all without breaking a sweat cause i use the DA. I only hand wipe after all is said and done to make sure i get the polish and sealer out of any creavices.
good luck.
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thats were i bought the pads and da from. great stuff there.
you shouldn't just put wax on top of wax, you need to take the old stuff off 1st & then put the wax on after, wax is only used to protect the shine, you should do at very least a prewax cleaner 1st then apply the wax.
I would do at least the pre cleaner, then a polish & then wax to protect all the work you did.
:2cents::cheers1:
S
spddmn
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Let me guess the brand of wax.....Zymol? If it is, used to own a detail shop and never had a wax adhere like it! But yes Alvin, for what your looking, they work just fine! Just take the bonnet, wet it first and wring all the water out, then apply the wax to the bonnet and have at it! But the hard part is getting that shit off, Good luck
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