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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A lot of AWD guys report that somewhere between 40-60k miles they lose forward movement or hear a noise directly correlated to a loss of power. More info on causes and other things a long that nature can be found here : http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59395
This thread is to show how to convert your carrier housing that your passenger side axles and stub axle from your tcase meet at from a grease lubricated setup to a gear oil lubricated setup.

First here is a list of things you'll need
1: A quart of high heat or performance 70w90 gear oil
2: 11/32 drill bit
3: 1/8NPT tap
4: 1 90* fitting (male 1/8NPT - 5/16" barb fitting)
5: 1 90* fitting (Male 1/8NPT - female 1/4NPT)
6: 5/16 barb fitting "T"
7: 1 straight fitting (male 1/4NPT - 5/16 barb fitting)
8: New OEM seals and bearing for the housing(I will add these actual part numbers in tomorrow )
9: About 3-4 ft of heat resistant clear tubing(Really only about 3" of the tubing needs to be clear but it's easier to just get it all in the same place.

That's what you will NEED. If you are doing this because you already have the problems either I listed above or the problems listed in the thread I linked then you will need the following.

1: The coupler/ sleeve that has the internal threads for the axle and stub shaft(I'll put up the part number tomorrow)
2: The stub shaft that goes from the tcase threw the oil pan to the carrier housing(I"ll put the part number up tomorrow)
3: New passenger side shaft(Usually the splines on this aren't too bad but I will list this too as worst case cenario)

First you need to take the passenger side wheel along with the brakes suspension ect so that you can take the passenger side shaft out. Once it's out there are a couple bolts that hold the housing to the pan. Remove those and the hole housing should slide off the shaft coming threw the oil pan.

Once it's off You want to pop out the rubber plug located at the flat bottom right of the housing and tap it with a 1/8NPT tap. You won't have to need the drill because the tap will fit perfect. Use the one piece 90* 1/8NPT - /16 barb fitting for this hole. Next find a flat spot at the top of the housing just to the right of the top left inner bolt and drill a hole using the 11/32 bit. Tap the hole out with 1/8NPT. Use the 90* 1/8NPT - 1/4NPT fitting in this spot. Tighten it up and make sure it's snug facing the direction you want and then install the straight 1/4NPT - 5/16 barb fitting. Install the tubing so that it looks something like the picture below. Be very careful with that top fitting location so that you don't mess up the housing. Not shown in the pic but you install the rest of the tubing up to the top of the engine compartment so you can fill the housing with the 70w90 gear oil.

 

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TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Should I wait todo this until I have problems?
No because those parts I listed that you need to replace after stuff breaks will cost you another $200-$300 depending on your dealer and your hook up. That and getting stranded is never fun. From talking to people and researching there is a 80% chance this will happen to a awd guy sooner or later.
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is a cheap mod if you do it before anything breaks. The splines will show a bit of wear no matter what but if you take the shafts out and see metal shaving in the inside of the housing then it's time to replace the expensive stuff. This is what it looks like on the inside when it's time to do everything
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dealer is being lazy so I'm gonna have to go to my TBSS but for now this is the picture to use

In the picture to the bottom right you HAVE to replace 1,2(all the number 2's) and 6 even if nothing is bad yet. If you're doing this after a breakdown of failure that's when you need to replace # 27 and the sleeve(for some reason the sleeve doesn't have a number pointing toward it but it's in the middle of the bottom right picture in between the second and third number 2.)
 

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TrailblazerSS
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ill post the part numbers in the morning...

would you guys be interested in a kit with all the seals and what not in it...

FYI... those intermediate shafts are discontinued from gm... and no longer stock available... your best bet is getting a nice used piece...
Yup
 

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07 TBSS 1SS AWD
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nope...

gm has discontinued them also. basically the ENTIRE assebly is not available.. but parts to repair it are, the front diff is the same way... not available as a unit... but available parts to repair it... the carrier on the pass side. is 743.99 when it was available from gm.

i have a complete AWD drivetrain for sale in the forsale section.



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07 TBSS 1SS AWD
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Parts list for passenger side carrier housing assembly...

12479302 outer seal GM list-$11.00 forum price $7.21

26053326 bearing (3 needed) Gm list -$9.89 forum price $6.50

15801507 inner seal (pan side)Gm list- $17.67 forum price $11.58

12471625 outer thrust washer Gm list- $4.25 forum price $2.78

12471623 inner thrust washer (pan side) Gm list- $4.25 forum price $2.78


12471636 collar.(this along with the intermediate shaft is what fails spline wise)
Gm list-$121.05 forum price $75.90

12479081 outer case half Gm list- $322.44 forum price $202.17

12479197 inner case half (pan side) Gm list- $290.32 forum price182.03


these parts are all available....

KIT--FDC1 (includes outer and inner seals, 3 bearings) $36.64(+$7.45 shipping)


KIT--FDC2 (same as FDC1 but includes thrust washers) $41.96 (+$7.45 shipping)




both kits have the option of addition of:

INT shaft Collar + $75.90
Outer case half + $202.17(+5.50 shipping)
Inner case half + $182.03(+5.50 shipping)



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You've got to be shittin' me. With the recent trans issues I've had finally worked-out, now I have to look forward to this?? This really starts to make me think of getting something newer....

Looks like she's going back to the mechanic soon.
 
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