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'08 TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #41
Ok so I did this and double checked everything and I'm having problems. the relay keeps making a buzzing sound. If I take off the wire in step 29 or the ground it stops buzzing and I can't figure why it's doing this... And ideas?

http://youtu.be/JC-WKw-OqlI

And when I turn on the hi beams the lows turn off.
Did you install the capacitor?
 

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Did you install the capacitor?
Yes I did. I just went to the garage to make sure and Turns out I cut the wrong pink/white wire in step 19 I cut the one on the tan connector. So I fixed that and now the low beams are on with the hi beams but the relay is still buzzing. And when I went o the garage the parking lamps were still on... Il go back out in a few minutes to check them again though
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Im going to pm you my number. Give me a call. It will be a lot easier to troubleshoot over the phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Brandon would it be possible to have just the front turn signals under the headlights as DRLs instead of all of the parking lamps?
It's possible but probably not worth what it is going to take to make it happen. You will need to install an additional diode and up to 6 additional relays depending on how far you want to go with it. You will need 2 relays to isolate the front marker lamps. These two relays will have to be mounted under the hood and you would have to run the control wires through the firewall and back to the bcm. You will also need relays to isolate the license plate lamps, left and right tail lamps, and the trailer park lamps. All of these relays can be installed at the rear fuse block.

If you still want to do it, let me know which components you want to isolate and i will get a schematic drawn up for you.
 

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It's possible but probably not worth what it is going to take to make it happen. You will need to install an additional diode and up to 6 additional relays depending on how far you want to go with it. You will need 2 relays to isolate the front marker lamps. These two relays will have to be mounted under the hood and you would have to run the control wires through the firewall and back to the bcm. You will also need relays to isolate the license plate lamps, left and right tail lamps, and the trailer park lamps. All of these relays can be installed at the rear fuse block.

If you still want to do it, let me know which components you want to isolate and i will get a schematic drawn up for you.
Oh wow that's crazy! I didn't realize it would take all of that. What about just the half-bright park lamp bulb under the headlight? My Helms manual refers to it as "Front Park Lamps Supply Voltage". It's circuit 2309. I see this brown wire goes back to the Steering column to I/P Harness, but I don't know where it goes from there. Or will it still involve a lot of relays/diodes for isolation?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The front park lamps, front marker lamps, left tail lamp, right tail lamp, license plate lamps, and trailer park lamps are all tied together. The more lamps you want to prevent from coming on, the more relays are going to be required.
 

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Ok thanks for checking. :cheers1:
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I went ahead and drew up some schematics for you. In schematic 1, you can see where you need to add the diode just below pin 4 of the DPDT relay and also where you need to connect the coils of the other relays. Schematics 2 and 3 show where you need to install the relays.

Schematic 1


Schematic 2


Schematic 3
 

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Bandon thank you for taking the time to put this together!!! I need to get back to frys and buy more relays!

Regarding the diodes needed, does it matter which type to get as long as they can handle the voltage and current? When I went to Fry's they had an entire wall of different diodes. I couldn't find the exact ones you listed, but did find silicon rectifier diodes that are 400v 3A. These should be fine, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Yeah those should be fine.
 

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Ok thanks
 

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Done.
You are the man thanks
You just need to connect a diode between two wires to make that work. Locate the GY/BK wire at pin E5 of the tan bcm connector. Connect the side of the diode with the silver band to this wire. Locate the wire connected to pin 3 of the DPDT relay that also connects to the D-GN/WH wire at pin E11 of the tan bcm connector. You need to connect the other side of your diode to this wire. There is already a diode installed on the wire you are connecting to. Make sure that you connect to this wire so that the existing diode is between the point where you are making your connection and the dpdt relay. If you make the connection between the diode and the relay, it wont work right.

 

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Discussion Starter #53
No problem
 

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I need some help. Followed the instructions you gave to the T and I got the highs and lows working together but not the fog. What could be the problem? Diode capacitor? Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Do they come on via the switch but just not automatically with the headlamps? If so you probably have the diode backwards.
 

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I really need to do this to my SS.

Just wish there was a plug and play option lol.
 

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Damn nice writeup, kinda looks like some of the wiring on the elevator controllers i work on everyday
 

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Can you provide a detail of the type of Diodes needed. Some links for the parts don't work anymore. Also, why a blower motor relay rather than a standard 40 amp relay? Thanks.
 
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