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TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to run a 100 shot maybe a 150 shot of nitrous. I have done my best to research in the forums and I think the best thing to run is a plate kit?

I have a
Rob cam
Brian tooley cam kit
Pickup tube
Soon to install 42 lb injectors
4" Fwi
Level 3.5 trans
Circle d 3200 stall

I have read good things about this kit on the gto forums. Is this all I need? I am tuned with HP tuners but would like to run separate tunes for when I'm not running spray. I am a total newB when it comes to spray kits and have done my best to research but I don't have all the answers I need



Cold Fusion Nitrous. LS2 90mm Dual Stage plate kit complete
 

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TrailblazerSS
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You will need to run a colder plug as well. I am not very familiar with the truck intakes so I cannot comment on fuel puddling, but that would be my biggest concern. also confirm that your converter can handle it, should have an antibalooning plate... as for the cam, there is give and take, and a few folks here would be able to better help you out with that with a custom gring, but you can give up a few hp n/a to pick up a good amount on the sauce. The attitude v3 specs look comparible to something that would do well with the bottle, but I cannot say without a doubt. The question you need to ask yourself is the work and money involved in a new cam vs the rob cam going to be worth it for the gains.
 

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TrailblazerSS
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I had the attitude v2 cam and sprayed 150 regularly. I would look at the nitrous outlet plate kits.
 

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TT AWD TBSS Jeep
TT AWD SS Pwrd Jeep
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5,825 Posts
No need for two tunes. The few degrees you loose wont be that noticable on the street. You will most likely benefit from a bigger fuel pump. Plugs Id run NGK BR7EF. Stock converter is pretty stout, but if you have a higher stall in there like a 3600 now, you will be flashing most likely 4500. At 15psi my 3600 turned into almost 4900rpm. The balloon plates a very good idea if aftermarket higher stall is in it. Call Matt LT1Z for cam advice. There is a HUGE gain when spraying with custom cam. Could be up to 100HP if heads and exh are up to the task. Get the blade stle MAF with the 4" FWI, they are only $55 online if you do some searching. Thats what I paid. Lastly, if your new to tuning get some advice from someone thats been doing it for a while as your AFR needs to be richer with NOS in addition to the reduced timing.
 

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TrailblazerSS
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You will not have to worry about fuel puddling as long as you are not just dumping fuel into the intake for no apperent reason.

These intake manifolds are a lot more efficient than some make them out to be. They do not have all your "dead spots" like a lot of older style intakes had where you could run into this issue more often.

As far as plugs, like a few have already mentioned. I really recommend never running a TR-6 plug, and the reason why, is it could cause a misfire. This happens because the ground strap practically becomes a glow plug, because it cannot dissipate all the extra heat when you more heat and cylinder pressure. The way you counter this, is by going with a non-projected tip plug which in turn helps shorten the path for all the heat being absorbed by the ground strap. Some have a really hard time with this and find out the hard way. BR7's is what plug you will start with until you go up on the jet size.


Now when it comes to a plate system, no one out there has a more vehicle specific plate system on the market than we do. And with the 10% of sale we are having it actually puts it cheaper than the system you posted. I really think a dual stage will be over kill. I prefer to keep it simple, as you will go faster by making things easier on yourself.

GM 07-13 Truck 90mm Plate System - GM Systems - EFI Wet Nitrous Systems



 

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Discussion Starter #8
So if I want the spray to start at say 3,300 rpm and stop at 6,500 rpm, do you do that through the tuning or do I need a nitrous controller ?
 

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Wow that kit is very damn nice, what accessories would you recommend? Bottle opener etc?
I would really recommend the following accessories so you have an 100% effective system.

Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important in order for a nitrous system to function properly. We suggest maintaining a bottle pressure of 900 to 950 PSI. In order to maintain a constant pressure you will need to heat the nitrous bottle as the volume content or bottle temperature drops. If the bottle pressure drops it can alter the motors tune up causing it to go rich and loose power.

Purge kit: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddy’s. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel reaching the motor before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial activation. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.

Nitrous Pressure Gauge: Since bottle pressure is very critical to how the nitrous system performs you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to know the bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a glow-n-dark nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as some gauges that mount inside the cabin of the vehicle.

Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any particles of trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid. The mother bottles that your nitrous bottles are filled from commonly have rust contaminants in the bottle. If it is not properly filtered when your bottle is filled it will transfer into your bottle. Having a nitrous filter plumbed into your system can prevent the nitrous solenoid from clogging or sticking open. We offer a life time cleanable and reusable nitrous filter.

TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage. Most window switches or progressive controllers usually have a TPS function included.

Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under too low of an rpm or over revving your engine while the nitrous is activated. The window switch give’s you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation rpm to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set deactivation RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point and 200 RPM before rev limiter.

Progressive Controller: A progressive controller is a traction control device. It works by allowing you to gradually bring the nitrous in over a period of time or throughout an rpm curve. A time based progressive controller will allow you to choose a starting percentage and the amount of time it will take to go to a 100 percent. A RPM based progressive will allow you to set a certain amount of nitrous to a certain engine rpm. Most progressive controllers will include a variety of options such as a window switch & TPS activation. The one I recommend will have all three features, the NOS Mini Progressive Nitrous Controller.

Wide Band Air to Fuel ratio controller: I really recommend getting one of these. Because with a nitrous system, the air to fuel ratio is very critical. A wide band controller will provide you with the information needed to know if you need to lean or richen your nitrous tune up. There are many different wideband controllers available on the market. A couple things to consider when shopping for a controller is the sensor the controller uses as well as the functions it provides. Some controllers include a sensor that cannot be used with leaded fuels while some controllers include a sensor that can be used with leaded fuels. Some controllers will only display the air fuel ratio in real time while some controllers offer data recording so that you can play it back.


Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
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