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Premium Member
2006 Red Jewel AWD
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11,641 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After not really liking the aftermarket end links already out, I resorted to what I always do...make my own! The biggest concern I had was that eventhough I am only sitting at 31.25" Front / 31.50" Rear the Suspension Maxx units can't be shortened enough to work properly on my truck.

The rundown:
- All 4130 material end link body
- PTFE lined Heat Treated 4130 Shell/Hard plated Heat Treated 52100 Steel Ball FK Spherical Bearings (spherical Bearings are off-the-shelf parts and cheap to replace *if* replacement is required)
- Eliminates the stupid allen keyed shank design of the stock end links with through bolt design
- All Grade 8 Hardware
- 100% Bolt-in

Pricing for 2006-2007 Trucks is $330.00 Shipped for a Front & Rear Set​
These end links are full 4130 construction with billet 6061-T6 aluminum spacers. They include PTFE lined top-of-the-line (4130 shell/52100 hard chrome plated ball) spherical bearings, all necessary hardware, Grade 8 bolts and OEM type Grade 8 Flanged Stover Nuts so nothing comes loose after install!

The only modifications needed for the install is to ream out the front sway bar and a-arm mounting holes to 5/8" and the rear sway bar hole only (on aftermarket sway bars) to 1/2" (frame hole is perfect as-is)​

These end links will come in 2 size options

Option 1: Trucks lowered down to 16.25" center of hub to fender lip

Option 2: Trucks lowered down to 15.25" center of hub to fender lip

- Photos -





Finished product with final Clear Powder Coating over raw material



Finished products in custom colors for the Charity Raffle we did for the guy who actually fabricated these parts for us




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INSTALLATION ISTRUCTIONS

Installation is not hard, you just need to pay attention and follow the details perfectly!

All of the end links are made specific to their position on the truck, so you must get it right or you won't be able to install them properly!

First, if you look at the photo below, you will see how the socket cap bolt is placed into the bearing cup. The socket cap bolt on EVERY position of EVERY end link is to be exactly like this. The socket cap needs to be fed through the seat side of the bearing cup with the threaded end sticking out the snap ring side of the bearing cup.



In this photo, you will also see how the billet aluminum spacer is placed. This spacers small diameter end will seat against the spherical bearing directly. The large diameter flat end will seat against the sway bar mount or frame mount (depending on position).

The flanged Stover Nut will seat on the opposing side of the sway bar or frame mount.

- Now for the actual installation -

1. Beginning with the rear bar (this is the harder of the two to get right for install), you will want to fully remove the stock end links from the vehicle.

2. Lower the now disconnected sway bar down toward the ground.

3. Look at the photo below and note the position of the socket cap bolts as installed on the truck. The lower bolt will be positioned from the inside of the truck outward.*

***Also, remember the position of the bearing cup seat matches the position of the socket cap end of the bolts. The lower bearing of the end links will have the seat of the bearing cup and the socket cap end of the bolt positioned to the inside of the truck. The upper bearing of the end links will have the seat of the bearing cup and the socket cap end of the bolt positioned to the outside and front of the truck.***

You will need to lower the sway bar to get the socket cap bolts into the sway bar. Otherwise, the lower control arm will not allow the bolt to be installed.



4. Install BOTH rear end links (with the sway bar in its lowered position) complete with billet aluminum spacers, into the sway bar and tighten Stover Nuts most of the way, but do not completely tighten them! Depending on which rear sway bar you have in your truck, you may have to slightly ream out the holes in the sway bar so the new hardware will fit. (My DJM bar just needed to have the powder coat removed in order to fit the new hardware)

5. Once both end links are installed properly into the sway bar mounts you can now move the sway bar up and into it's final position.

6. Now you will slide the socket cap bolts into the upper end link mounts with billet aluminum spacers in place.

7. Install Stover Nuts into the back side of the upper frame mounts and fully tighten and torque down the assemblies to 60lb.ft.

8. Now fully tighten and torque the lower assemblies down to 60lb.ft. as well.

9. Now remove the stock front end links completely. You will not need to move the sway bar to install the new end links as there are no clearance issues.

10. Before you begin to assemble the front end links, you will need to drill out ALL front holes in the lower a-arms and in the sway bar itself to accept the 5/8" hardware. I recommend jacking the front of the truck up and removing both front tires at the same time so there is no chassis twist (which would make it impossible to install the end links) and then drilling out all the holes. You will have a lot more room to do all of this with the wheels removed!

11. Now, look at the photo below and note the positions of the socket cap bolt heads (and thus the bearing cup seat positions just like the rear)



12. Now you will install BOTH end links with billet aluminum spacers into the lower a-arms (from the rear of the a-arm mount) with the socket cap bolt threads facing the front of the truck. Tighten the Stover Nut, but not completely.

13.. Now you will want to lower the front sway bar into position to install the upper end link bolts through the sway bar itself. Depending on how new your front sway bar bushings are and whether they are stock or Hotchkis replacements, you may have to get a friend to help you by wedging a long pry bar between the frame and the sway bar to get it to move down.

14. Once you get everything lined up with the sway bar, you will slide the socket cap bolt through the end link from the outside of the truck inward.

15. Now you can tighten and fully torque ALL front end link bolt assemblies to 85lb.ft.

16. You should be done with assembly now!

17. After 100 miles of driving and flexing the suspension over uneven pavement (like driving diagonal over speed bumps or into your driveway transition) you will want to check and re-torque ALL of the hardware front and rear!

Please call me if you run into any issues or have any questions!

Steve - 775.287.6406
 

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High and Tight!!!
TrailblazerSS
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2,959 Posts
Im guessing they wont be a dime a dozen though, right? Look great! Whats wrong with stock end links and sitting under 30"? Im at 29.75" and it rides fine. :dunno:

Love that they wont have allen head shanks though.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Red Jewel AWD
Joined
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11,641 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im guessing they wont be a dime a dozen though, right? Look great! Whats wrong with stock end links and sitting under 30"? Im at 29.75" and it rides fine. :dunno:

Love that they wont have allen head shanks though.
I don't have any pricing yet because we aren't done with building and fitting them. I will keep everyone posted once I know more.

The problem with your stock end links is that your sway bars are pointing down at the ground with your truck sitting at 29.75". Your sway bar is supposed to be as close to parallel with the ground AND the end link should be perpendicular to the sway bar. If your bar is sitting like it is, your sway bars are working very inefficiently. Lowering our trucks renders the sway bars very weak and ineffective with stock end links...

Gorgeous as always Steven. The links aren't bad either ;)

I'll bite. How much these gonna set me back?
Thank you! I'll keep you posted on pricing here!
 

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Premium Member
TrailblazerSS
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2,655 Posts
In if the price isn't astronomical. I'm at 31.5ish all around with a stock front bar and Hotchkis rear, love the handling as is but if I could fully utilize the Hotchkis one...the allen heads in the stock ones are rounded like a mofo too on mine.
 

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Willy M'Fn Wonka
07 Trailblazer SS
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7,244 Posts
Damn you, make them adjustable..... since lots of us change our set-ups around from time to time, which will inevitally change our needs.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Red Jewel AWD
Joined
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11,641 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Damn you, make them adjustable..... since lots of us change our set-ups around from time to time, which will inevitally change our needs.
No, I won't make them adjustable...trust me, I've played with this and you will be fine with making fine adjustments on height...like I said, 29.50" - 32.00" will be perfectly fine with these...
 

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TrailblazerSS
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523 Posts
You can count me in!
 

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Willy M'Fn Wonka
07 Trailblazer SS
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7,244 Posts
No, I won't make them adjustable...trust me, I've played with this and you will be fine with making fine adjustments on height...like I said, 29.50" - 32.00" will be perfectly fine with these...
Alrighty then, I trust you know. I'm sure you have already done the research/investigation on this.... but one problem I've had with aftermarket endlinks is that there is always slop in the hole of the aftermarket swaybars. The endlinks always come loose. Since nobody really has made an endlink specifically for our application, I would assume this is the problem. Wonder if all the aftermarket bars have the same diameter hole??? I have the Addco bars personally.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Red Jewel AWD
Joined
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11,641 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will have to ask people to test the bolts with the different brands of sway bars, but I have the stock rear and DJM covered. The hardware will be Grade 8 and the nuts will be compression/pinch lock so there should not any issue with hardware coming loose...

You know I don't fuck around and I will make these right...or I won't make them at all!
 

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Registered
White 2006 TBSS AWD
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846 Posts
I had a set of suspension maxx endlinks spec'd out for my rear. I got a 4.5" center/center bolt for my truck which is lowered to 30.5" in the rear. They were great for the first few months but just recently I started noticing the same squeaky noise that my oem ones were making prior to me changing them out. The noise sounds like a squeaky old spring bed over bumps. I need to call suspension maxx to see what the deal is. Otherwise I'll be interested in getting a set of these as well.
 

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Premium Member
2006 Red Jewel AWD
Joined
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11,641 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mine will never squeak on make noise because they are a solid joint...the PTFE liner in the bearing will likely last 3+ years of regular use and never require any sort of lubrication or maintenance.
 

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Willy M'Fn Wonka
07 Trailblazer SS
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7,244 Posts
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