NarcoSS messed up LS3 Procharger Build
watched this page for god knows how long and figured it’d be time to write one of these things up…
2020 bought this truck with a bad trans and a “built” 402 stroker. About a year later the transmission exited the chat, and shortly after so did the LS2 due to a bad lifter.
Went full ape 💩 and got a RPM Level X and a FULL pull out procharged LS3 full fuel system and all.
After about 2 years bc life happens (medical issues, drainage pipe burst @ the house, and a 2yr old boy that runs my life) my buddy decided to help me out and get this b**** back on the road. Currently got the old engine out and going to transplant the new LS3 😁
A little background: This is a street truck. I plan that 95% of the time it will be cruising or picking up the little one from school not to far. The idea has always been to overbuild to under power. Might mess around @ the track every now and then, but mainly built to mess around on the highway.
I am a marine tech and don’t mind wrenching. Already used to using four letter words and being crunched under fat pigs 🐖 either for the water or road lol.
I have my challenges and am ready to experiment (ie: battery & ecu relocate, running AN fuel lines figuring out how to make a Fore fuel pump from a Camaro SS possibly work with our truck , dropping new engine, and some figuring if I run air 2 air or air 2 water)
so here we go…
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![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering]()
2020 bought this truck with a bad trans and a “built” 402 stroker. About a year later the transmission exited the chat, and shortly after so did the LS2 due to a bad lifter.
Went full ape 💩 and got a RPM Level X and a FULL pull out procharged LS3 full fuel system and all.
After about 2 years bc life happens (medical issues, drainage pipe burst @ the house, and a 2yr old boy that runs my life) my buddy decided to help me out and get this b**** back on the road. Currently got the old engine out and going to transplant the new LS3 😁
A little background: This is a street truck. I plan that 95% of the time it will be cruising or picking up the little one from school not to far. The idea has always been to overbuild to under power. Might mess around @ the track every now and then, but mainly built to mess around on the highway.
I am a marine tech and don’t mind wrenching. Already used to using four letter words and being crunched under fat pigs 🐖 either for the water or road lol.
I have my challenges and am ready to experiment (ie: battery & ecu relocate, running AN fuel lines figuring out how to make a Fore fuel pump from a Camaro SS possibly work with our truck , dropping new engine, and some figuring if I run air 2 air or air 2 water)
so here we go…
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Been planning the fuel system, and I’m thinking of just selling the fore Camaro fuel pumps bc they aren’t low enough and using hydramats to keep fuel in there is about the about same $ as a premium fuel pump system.
I know a lot of guys are running Aeromotive or custom systems… which got me thinking..
wouldn’t a GM truck pump work on our trucks if Aeromotives is basically the same thing? I could wire up the existing fc2 system to this and solve my fuel pump length issue. Anyone have any experience or can chime in?
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I know a lot of guys are running Aeromotive or custom systems… which got me thinking..
wouldn’t a GM truck pump work on our trucks if Aeromotives is basically the same thing? I could wire up the existing fc2 system to this and solve my fuel pump length issue. Anyone have any experience or can chime in?
Found him.
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You have two choices about the battery charging sensor.
Run a ground from battery directly to the front with your positive. Use a busbar or terminal post and hack the battery terminal for a copper lug crimp. This way the sensor still does it’s thing and you remove like 50lbs off the front end and really clean up that area… you can make a small simple ABS plastic plate or sheet metal plate to hold the bus bar.
second option, ground from your battery to frame. Then up front frame to battery. Make sure you clean that area really well to bare metal, use a large ga wire, copper lugs and make sure you use some dielectric grease and paint the connections after to weather coat it. Because there are more points of connections, there is increased chance of ground issues if you had water intrusion. Still use a busbar or terminal bus to join new ground wire to old battery terminal.
here is a busbar example that will support up to 200A.
![Guitar accessory Font String instrument accessory Auto part Musical instrument accessory]()
Run a ground from battery directly to the front with your positive. Use a busbar or terminal post and hack the battery terminal for a copper lug crimp. This way the sensor still does it’s thing and you remove like 50lbs off the front end and really clean up that area… you can make a small simple ABS plastic plate or sheet metal plate to hold the bus bar.
second option, ground from your battery to frame. Then up front frame to battery. Make sure you clean that area really well to bare metal, use a large ga wire, copper lugs and make sure you use some dielectric grease and paint the connections after to weather coat it. Because there are more points of connections, there is increased chance of ground issues if you had water intrusion. Still use a busbar or terminal bus to join new ground wire to old battery terminal.
here is a busbar example that will support up to 200A.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
