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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Decided to pull the trigger and bought the popular 278mm Circle D 3000-3200 stall. I've been reading for days and have a basic idea of how to install it, but all the threads are pretty outdated with dates from 2009 all the way to 2013. So I was wondering if things have changed since then in terms of tips for installing the converter. We have a lift so getting to things will be that much easier. Here is what I gathered from research (keep in mind im 2wd as well and truck has 53k miles on it with my motor having 3500 miles and this is my garage queen)...

-Loosen the starter and move it out of the way (don't have to take it out) & some kind of shield so I can access the converter bolts
- take out u-joint and remove the drive shaft
- make sure to have long extensions (3-4 footers)
- make sure that the new converter is seated all the way (I should hear 2 clicks)
- use the supplied Loctite on the newly supplied converter bolts
- put in at least a qt of fluid into the converter before installing it (Circle D instructs just a half a qt and let it soak?)
- might have to use spacers
- remove the O2 sensors
- unplug the 2 electrical connections and undo the shifter
- take off the long tubes y pipe
- when installing, make sure not to ruin the o-ring on the shaft?? will I be able to tell if said o-ring is/has damage or if its worn?

is this everything in a nutshell? The things I guess I m confused/concerned about are the spacers, how much fluid to add to the converter before install, if I will need new o-rings, and if I have to take the extra steps of things like removing O2 sensors, y-pipe, or if I have to remove the tranny all together or if we can just drop it down/slide it back and go from there. How will I know if I need spacers? should I upgrade the flexplate at this time or is stock fine (not going F/I, just keeping it N/A)? Any other tips the more recent folks can share? Remember i'm 2wd, motor has been out of the truck 5 times in the past 2 years, and I just installed headers. So all the bolts are rather fresh and not rusted.

Lastly, while installing the headers back in May, I noticed the bell housing was a little saturated with tranny fluid and there is a faint hue of fluid on my garage floor after long periods of driving times/spirited driving. From my research on the probable causes, it could be a cracked weld on the stall or a bad conveter all together. The pump/shaft seal, or the pump housing cracked. Does this seem correct? I just want to have all parts available so we don't have to stop what we're doing, clean up, and go to the parts store.

thx everyone.

thou
 

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TT AWD TBSS Jeep
TT AWD SS Pwrd Jeep
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5,825 Posts
Lube the hub of coverter to not damage seal.

Long ext can be used to get at TC bolts.

The rest you seem to have.
 

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Registered
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468 Posts
One suggestion is to measure the bellhousing to converter pad when installing the new converter. The clicks are hard to feel/hear sometimes. You want to see just over an inch, then you are good to go.

Chris
 

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Mattmikemark
2006 Trailblazer SS
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5,366 Posts
Review this and print it out and keep it handy... Very helpful
http://tbssowners.com/docs/06_07_Transmission_Removal.pdf

Are you AWD or 2WD? AWD you have to mess with the transfer case & front drive shaft, but neither are bad. I left the transfer case hooked up to the trans and dropped it together, no issues.

O2 sensors just unplug, no need to "remove" them from the Y pipe.

Don't forget to remove the trans cooler lines.

The engine crossmember must be removed to get to the torque converter bolts. This is what keeps the suspension in alignment, so don't mess with the suspension with the engine crossmember out.

3' extensions aren't needed. I had 2 6" extensions and 2 3" and that was plenty to do the whole swap. When removing the TC bolts, use a 15mm short socket, 3" extension, swivel, and 2 6" extensions and that worked great. But they're a PITA for sure.

I had a crack in my old converter. It did more than seep though, there was a noticeable puddle under it after just moving it out of the garage. I guess the leak rate would depend on the size of the crack though.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Great info... thx guys. We had the truck up on the lift yesturday looking things over and to my surprise it's not a trans leak. It's actually an oil leak. So not only am I pissed (new crate motor with 3500 miles on it), I'm actually kind of worried to see oil where the motor meets the bell housing.

But I'm 2wd so no messing with T cases for me. We did notice that to move the starter we'll have to take out my passenger side header so that should be tons of fun.
 

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Mattmikemark
2006 Trailblazer SS
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5,366 Posts
I doubt you'll have to completely drop the head, maybe just loosening the bolts will be good enough?

Sounds like a rear main seal.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
That's what we were thinking that it's the rear main seal. At least I hope so it's nice and simple lol. But we'll just have to look and see how much wiggle room we have with that header there. It just looked awfully close
 

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TrailblazerSS
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775 Posts
If you do the rear main seal be sure to get the rear cover gasket and do it at the same time.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Noted. I'm just hoping it's something as simple as a seal. I have the pcm relocation kit already installed so I was hoping to not have any oil issues.

Should I replace any kind of seals on the tranny while the converter is out? The o-ring that people talk about. Or is that just a "play it buy ear" type thing.
 

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Mattmikemark
2006 Trailblazer SS
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5,366 Posts
The shaft seal where the hub of the converter seats would be a good thing to replace.
 
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Premium Member
2008 TrailblazerSS
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12,861 Posts
I've had this type of leak before and it turned out to be the oil pan gasket. They tend to need extra RTV gasket sealant at the back corners where it mates to the block. It seems there is also a TSB on this from GM as well.

The oil was collecting at the bell housing, so it made it look like a rear main seal leak.

~Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines~
 
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Premium Member
'07 TBSS
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1,231 Posts
This is why you would need shims, the yank I installed needed to be shimmed, yours may not require it. Taken from Yank website, Chris can direct you on his if different..."After transmission is bolted up check that converter will pull away from the flywheel at least 3/32" but no more than 3/16". - Use spacers as needed, if needed."

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #13
Good info guys.

You know, I've already had the oil pan gasket replaced once on one of motor swaps, that would be great if it was just that as I'm 2wd so we can do it ourselves.
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
And the shaft seal, is that like o ring that people talk about that can get flattened or nipped or is it one of these.

 

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TrailblazerSS
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Get a GM seal

GM 24202535
 

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Garage Queen
TrailblazerSS
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Discussion Starter #16
Might have to hit up a dealer and hope they have it in stock since we're working on it tomorrow
 
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