how to on ignition switch
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Its easy. I have an extra ignition switch if you need one
just did this on mine last weekend. Not "really" knowing what i was doing i had it done in a half hr. It's very easy. There is a good write up on here somewhere i just cant find it again
just make sure the thing is aligned when it goes in....
I'm the one having the issue with my truck not starting. I just replaced my battery today with a Red Top Optima and was able to find the write up on the "how to replace the ignition switch" well both are in and still no start! FYI-the ignition switch was aligned correct, just like the way it came out! WTF?? Please help!
Joined
·
3,455 Posts
Ok you say its not starting. Lets start with what is it actually doing?
Is it clicking?
Is the starting engauging?
Is it turning over and not firing?
It is just going dead as soon as you hit the key?
Is it clicking?
Is the starting engauging?
Is it turning over and not firing?
It is just going dead as soon as you hit the key?
Mine did the same thing this past Wednesday. Pulled it in the garage the evening prior - got in it the next morning and it wouldn't start - checked the battery output and all was good. It didn't make a sound when turning the key to engage the starter - everything else seemed normal. Had it towed into the dealer - still under factory 3/36. They found it to be the Engine Wiring Harness Junction Box - they called it the ignition relay, but they told me they usually just replace the whole junction box if something shorts out or is problematic. I have attached a scan of the warranty work -
Initially I thought it was the ignition switch.
Initially I thought it was the ignition switch.
Attachments
Ignition and Start Switch Replacement
Tools Required
J-42759 Ignition Switch Connector Release Tool(not required, you can use a screwdriver to push in the tabs)
Removal Procedure
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable. Caution: Refer to Restraint System Service Precautions.
2.Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
3.Remove the hush and knee bolster.
4.Remove the steering column trim covers.
5.With the key installed, turn the key to the RUN position
6.Install an allen wrench into the hole on top of the lock cylinder housing. Push down on the allen wrench to release the tab on the lock cylinder inside the lock cylinder housing.
![]()
7.Slide the lock cylinder out of the lock cylinder housing.
![]()
8.Disconnect the passlock and key buzzer from the lock cylinder housing.
9.Insert J-42759 into the lock cylinder housing to release the tabs on the ignition switch.
10.Pull the ignition switch out of the lock cylinder housing.
11.Disconnect the connector from the ignition switch
![]()
Installation Procedure
Important: The gears between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing must be in the correct position. Failure to do so will cause a misalignment of the gears in the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing, which may result in a NO START or BATTERY DRAIN.
1.Verify the alignment of the gear (1) in the ignition switch (2). If gear (1) is not in position shown, turn gear in ignition switch (2) until you reach the correct position.
![]()
Important: In order to reach a stop while rotating the lock cylinder housing gear you MUST push and hold in the solenoid on the electric park lock.
2.Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear counterclockwise until it hits a stop.
3.Connect the connector to the ignition switch.
![]()
4.Insert the ignition switch into the lock cylinder housing. The tabs (2) on the ignition switch MUST be seated inside the lock cylinder housing (1) for proper installation.
![]()
5.Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to the START position - allowing it to spring return into the RUN position.
![]()
6.Align the lock cylinder and install the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing.
7.Connect the passlock and key buzzer into the lock housing.
![]()
8.Install the steering column trim covers.
9.Install the hush and knee bolster.
10.Enable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
11.Connect the negative battery cable.
Tools Required
J-42759 Ignition Switch Connector Release Tool(not required, you can use a screwdriver to push in the tabs)
Removal Procedure
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable. Caution: Refer to Restraint System Service Precautions.
2.Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
3.Remove the hush and knee bolster.
4.Remove the steering column trim covers.
5.With the key installed, turn the key to the RUN position
6.Install an allen wrench into the hole on top of the lock cylinder housing. Push down on the allen wrench to release the tab on the lock cylinder inside the lock cylinder housing.
7.Slide the lock cylinder out of the lock cylinder housing.
8.Disconnect the passlock and key buzzer from the lock cylinder housing.
9.Insert J-42759 into the lock cylinder housing to release the tabs on the ignition switch.
10.Pull the ignition switch out of the lock cylinder housing.
11.Disconnect the connector from the ignition switch
Installation Procedure
Important: The gears between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing must be in the correct position. Failure to do so will cause a misalignment of the gears in the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing, which may result in a NO START or BATTERY DRAIN.
1.Verify the alignment of the gear (1) in the ignition switch (2). If gear (1) is not in position shown, turn gear in ignition switch (2) until you reach the correct position.
Important: In order to reach a stop while rotating the lock cylinder housing gear you MUST push and hold in the solenoid on the electric park lock.
2.Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear counterclockwise until it hits a stop.
3.Connect the connector to the ignition switch.
4.Insert the ignition switch into the lock cylinder housing. The tabs (2) on the ignition switch MUST be seated inside the lock cylinder housing (1) for proper installation.
5.Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to the START position - allowing it to spring return into the RUN position.
6.Align the lock cylinder and install the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing.
7.Connect the passlock and key buzzer into the lock housing.
8.Install the steering column trim covers.
9.Install the hush and knee bolster.
10.Enable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
11.Connect the negative battery cable.
Update. Sorry to keep this going but, I finally got to the truck to start after a few times turning the key in the igntion. Once it was on, I left it on and drove it straight home. Now parked in my driveway I tried starting it again, back to square 1. Crap... Anyway, I'm very irriated with the SS right now just glad it's not my DD.
As a follow up to pics posted by Brandonw, there really is no need to take out the key switch. As long as you take note of the gear teeth positon and make it the same on the new ign switch before putting it in place. You can use two small flat screwdrivers instead of the "tool", also.
Where is the Engine Wiring Harness Junction Box? I have had the same problem 3 times. I replaced the ignition switch and it failed to start again. Any info you can give me on the part the dealer replaced would help.
Figure I'd post this again on this thread:
How did you get the tilt wheel lever off to be able to remove the bottom cover?
There are four locked positions for the key starting counter-clockwise:
1. ignition off (key out)
2. accessories only (when you click a little)
3. accessories / on (run position, after car is started)
4. crank the starter (spring loaded, must be pushed foward and it will return to position 3. after you let go)...
you have to make sure you did not pull the wires too hard when you removed the ignition switch, as this has happened to a few people, and they've had to tighten the two wires on top of the column...
next you have to make sure that the teeth line up to one of the above positions, AND the key set to the same position...
if you scroll the ignition switch all the way to the right ( I believe ) the teeth have a gap in the teeth (looks like missing teeth) that is position 1, if you go all the way you go all the way to the right, it stops that is position 3., If you force it further to the right, (spring loaded) that is position 4... will never install in this position...
depending on how you installed it (key in or out), is how you want to install it... either positions 1, 2. or 3. is what you want to match up the key position to... Key out position 1 is probably the easiest, as the tumbler is locked, and the teeth should easily line up... I ended up moving the ignition switch just a little between the gap in the teeth 1. and position 2. with the key out of the ignition, that ended up yielding the perfect position for my car, and it was the second adjustment I needed to make to get it perfect...
Also:mellis said:Trailvoy
2004 GMC Envoy SLT XUV
Majestic Red Metallic 5.3L V8 4X4
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Parker, PA
Posts: 45
First, you’ll only need two thin regular screwdrivers and the replacement switch to do the job.
Disconnect your negative battery cable. I’ve heard that you should disable the airbag, but I’ve read that others did not do this, and neither did I. Just to be safe, I tried to stay away from the front of the wheel while working on the switch.
Take one of your screwdrivers and gently pry the covers of the steering column off. They should separate pretty easily, then you just need to remove the bottom cover to get access to the switch.
Once the cover is off, you’ll see the bottom of the switch where the harness plugs in, the rest of the switch is slid up into a metal sleeve.
Take your two screwdrivers and insert them into the two holes in the metal sleeve. This pushes back the spring tabs on the ignition switch, allowing you to pull the switch assembly down and out of the metal sleeve. The pictures below have two red arrows showing where the two screwdrivers need to be inserted. The yellow circle shows where the harness connects to the switch. The last picture shows the switch removed from the sleeve, but not disconnected from the harness.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Disconnect the switch from the harness.
Look at the teeth of the old switch and compare them to the new switch. Align the new switch gear with the old switch gear. There is a gap in the gears you should see that greatly helps with the alignment.
Plug the harness into the new switch.
Insert the new switch into the metal sleeve until you hear the spring tabs engage the holes in the sleeve.
Reconnect your column cover.
Reconnect your negative battery terminal.
Start her up.
Hope this helps. Took me about 15-20 minutes to do, and most of that time was spent getting the stupid harness off the old switch.
How did you get the tilt wheel lever off to be able to remove the bottom cover?
Here's are my notes on how to align the teeth:Kanukong said:
There are four locked positions for the key starting counter-clockwise:
1. ignition off (key out)
2. accessories only (when you click a little)
3. accessories / on (run position, after car is started)
4. crank the starter (spring loaded, must be pushed foward and it will return to position 3. after you let go)...
you have to make sure you did not pull the wires too hard when you removed the ignition switch, as this has happened to a few people, and they've had to tighten the two wires on top of the column...
next you have to make sure that the teeth line up to one of the above positions, AND the key set to the same position...
if you scroll the ignition switch all the way to the right ( I believe ) the teeth have a gap in the teeth (looks like missing teeth) that is position 1, if you go all the way you go all the way to the right, it stops that is position 3., If you force it further to the right, (spring loaded) that is position 4... will never install in this position...
depending on how you installed it (key in or out), is how you want to install it... either positions 1, 2. or 3. is what you want to match up the key position to... Key out position 1 is probably the easiest, as the tumbler is locked, and the teeth should easily line up... I ended up moving the ignition switch just a little between the gap in the teeth 1. and position 2. with the key out of the ignition, that ended up yielding the perfect position for my car, and it was the second adjustment I needed to make to get it perfect...
Please see pics - I think this is what they replaced - at least it looks new, and my quick search on the interweb points to this being the part. If someone knows for sure please chime in - I know this thread was originally started for the ignition switch how to, so sorry to sidetrack.
Joined
·
5 Posts
Can you post it here, cos im having the same trouble with mine.
Yes,
After a year or two, and a few deep cycles, it's pretty much living on borrowed time... If you ever had to charge or jump it, then you really are on borrowed time, and probably have a dead cell...
The battery can hold on for a little while longer in the warm weather, but in the northern winter it's done...
I added a solar charger, and it helped my battery hold on another year, but then I got a powerbastards Alternator, and a new battery under warranty, and haven't had a problem since... And I still use the solar charger also...
After a year or two, and a few deep cycles, it's pretty much living on borrowed time... If you ever had to charge or jump it, then you really are on borrowed time, and probably have a dead cell...
The battery can hold on for a little while longer in the warm weather, but in the northern winter it's done...
I added a solar charger, and it helped my battery hold on another year, but then I got a powerbastards Alternator, and a new battery under warranty, and haven't had a problem since... And I still use the solar charger also...
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
