Chevy Trailblazer SS Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
2007 Trailblazer 3SS
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone got a good answer to this?
I would like to know the most amount of lowering that I can do on my 07 AWD "SAFELY" w/o needing all new parts, control arms etc. I'm not interested in slamming it, but a little lower, then I'll adjust rear to match. Have to make a couple ride height rods, but that's easy enough.
Remember please, I am NOT slamming it, but want the lowest safe height without all new suspension parts.
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2008 TrailblazerSS
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Anyone got a good answer to this?
I would like to know the most amount of lowering that I can do on my 07 AWD "SAFELY" w/o needing all new parts, control arms etc. I'm not interested in slamming it, but a little lower, then I'll adjust rear to match. Have to make a couple ride height rods, but that's easy enough.
Remember please, I am NOT slamming it, but want the lowest safe height without all new suspension parts.
Thanks.
31.5”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Sold
Joined
·
5,874 Posts
31.5”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mike is correct. 31.5" measured from the ground to the center of the fender well lip.
 

·
Registered
2007 Trailblazer 3SS
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike is correct. 31.5" measured from the ground to the center of the fender well lip.
Measuring to the fender lip is definitely not the proper way, you have to use frame to rack, any one fender lip can be off by 1/4 inch or more, now the truck is all unstable in cornering.
My frame angle
is .02degress rake up to rear, all frame measurements are within 1/16” but lips measure as much as an 1/8" different. You'll never noticed with the naked eye.
I'm looking for the " amount of drop" in inches, like 1 or 2 inches without needing modified suspension arms and stuff. Fender lip measures for show, I'm AWD and I'm lowering, but want neutral handling.
We setup cars height and also corner balance, lips will always vary a bit, but the chassis is flat as it should be.
I'm in need of a little more realistic professional measuring numbers.
 

·
Premium Member
Sold
Joined
·
5,874 Posts
Anyone got a good answer to this?
I would like to know the most amount of lowering that I can do on my 07 AWD "SAFELY" w/o needing all new parts, control arms etc. I'm not interested in slamming it, but a little lower, then I'll adjust rear to match. Have to make a couple ride height rods, but that's easy enough.
Remember please, I am NOT slamming it, but want the lowest safe height without all new suspension parts.
Thanks.

Measuring to the fender lip is definitely not the proper way, you have to use frame to rack, any one fender lip can be off by 1/4 inch or more, now the truck is all unstable in cornering.
My frame angle
is .02degress rake up to rear, all frame measurements are within 1/16” but lips measure as much as an 1/8" different. You'll never noticed with the naked eye.
I'm looking for the " amount of drop" in inches, like 1 or 2 inches without needing modified suspension arms and stuff. Fender lip measures for show, I'm AWD and I'm lowering, but want neutral handling.
We setup cars height and also corner balance, lips will always vary a bit, but the chassis is flat as it should be.
I'm in need of a little more realistic professional measuring numbers.
You asked for input then you got it, but seems like you already know it all. I drove mine for 70k miles at 30.5" all the way around at the fenderwill lip. It handled and launched fantastic at 700whp.



Good luck over thinking your setup for a 4000 pound+ SUV that you said you wouldn't want to change parts on.

It's not a formula one car.
 

·
Registered
2008 TrailblazerSS
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Measuring to the fender lip is definitely not the proper way, you have to use frame to rack, any one fender lip can be off by 1/4 inch or more, now the truck is all unstable in cornering.
My frame angle
is .02degress rake up to rear, all frame measurements are within 1/16” but lips measure as much as an 1/8" different. You'll never noticed with the naked eye.
I'm looking for the " amount of drop" in inches, like 1 or 2 inches without needing modified suspension arms and stuff. Fender lip measures for show, I'm AWD and I'm lowering, but want neutral handling.
We setup cars height and also corner balance, lips will always vary a bit, but the chassis is flat as it should be.
I'm in need of a little more realistic professional measuring numbers.
It doesn’t really matter. There are 2 drop kits available for this truck unless you build your own (don’t know why you would do that since Tony has it all figured out already). Tony’s kits come 31.5” or 30” measured to fender. The 31.5 kit does not require changing anything but I suggest using his upper control arms and modifying the end links. If you go with the 30” kit, you will have to change everything including rear pan hard bar and all that. Since you said you just want to lower a little bit, You can always throw in some coilovers and make it whatever height you want in the front and match the back air ride sensors. Hope that sums it up for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
TrailblazerSS 3ss red
Joined
·
55 Posts
It doesn’t really matter. There are 2 drop kits available for this truck unless you build your own (don’t know why you would do that since Tony has it all figured out already). Tony’s kits come 31.5” or 30” measured to fender. The 31.5 kit does not require changing anything but I suggest using his upper control arms and modifying the end links. If you go with the 30” kit, you will have to change everything including rear pan hard bar and all that. Since you said you just want to lower a little bit, You can always throw in some coilovers and make it whatever height you want in the front and match the back air ride sensors. Hope that sums it up for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2007 Trailblazer 3SS
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You asked for input then you got it, but seems like you already know it all. I drove mine for 70k miles at 30.5" all the way around at the fenderwill lip. It handled and launched fantastic at 700whp.



Good luck over thinking your setup for a 4000 pound+ SUV that you said you wouldn't want to change parts on.

It's not a formula one car.
Exactly, so I don't need it to have a boatload of special suspension parts, when I'm flexible on amount of drop.
Don't need cocky answers either.
I know I want to handle "other than in a straight line" very well, one reason I went AWD.
As for knowing everything, well I know enough to know you measure to the lip for show, not go. Hell even drag cars have a balance, and mine handles quite well now with rear dropped.
It's a simple question, just get silly "and dick" answers for my purpose. And yeah, I've already done a SCCA SOLO event and it did well, I asked how much drop hoping to get answers like I did when I built my Regal, like 1", 2", 2-1/2” etc.
You do you I'll do me, this one you'll have to agree to disagree, yours probably drove just fine, but mine will drive better and the target currently is that 700plus range. FYI, overthinking? Part of being an engineer and not a hack. At least MikeDeez was capable of a reasonable, responsible answer, and I even mentioned just a spring coil cut, but nah, you still had to go all bold n cocky.
Pretty sad, your my 1st.heckler.
Thanks for the laugh though, cause you don't know shit, cause it's not gonna be a full weight build either, so another thing, TB3SS AWD is like 4600, 2WD are closer to 4000.
Oh, and if they're not made to handle well, why would Hotchkiss make an adjustable rear sway bar? Certainly isn't for drag launches.
So damn, I guess I do know a little, and [email protected] coilovers are always an option.guess I'll find someone more familiar with the real tech knowledge to know the max axle angles, hell the guy that makes the kits can probably answer for me.
 

·
Registered
2007 Trailblazer 3SS
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It doesn’t really matter. There are 2 drop kits available for this truck unless you build your own (don’t know why you would do that since Tony has it all figured out already). Tony’s kits come 31.5” or 30” measured to fender. The 31.5 kit does not require changing anything but I suggest using his upper control arms and modifying the end links. If you go with the 30” kit, you will have to change everything including rear pan hard bar and all that. Since you said you just want to lower a little bit, You can always throw in some coilovers and make it whatever height you want in the front and match the back air ride sensors. Hope that sums it up for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Mike, he can probably answer my question, and even share the max axle angle that's safe. I just wanted to drop the front like I said, 1 to 2"max, match the rear via frame measurements and angle and usee Hotchkiss' adjustable rear bar.
These AWD handle pretty darn well, a little drop would be a huge improvement, I may consider that upper bar you mentioned.
Hell, I don't know what stock fender lip height is as it is.
 

·
Registered
07 Trailblazer SS
Joined
·
92 Posts
I picked up tony's kit 31.5 (NORCALSS) My 07 TBSS AWD is my DD... 135K and climbing. While i was in there i added Tony's slotted rotors/pads. Also replaced the rear upper, lower control arms. I opted to replace most of the front suspension including steering rack. My 4600lb truck drives and rides like a dream. I would suggest this kit. It won't break the bank and Tony is a great guy to deal with. If i want comfort and speed i'll drive my 96 Grand Sport or my 12 ZR1.... ;)


 
  • Like
Reactions: theheder

·
"******"
2008
Joined
·
1,215 Posts
Anyone got a good answer to this?
I would like to know the most amount of lowering that I can do on my 07 AWD "SAFELY" w/o needing all new parts, control arms etc.
The upper ball joint does not like being lowered. @ standard ride height the upper ball joint is already on a angle. I would atleast use Tony's upper A-arms it could save your life.
LOWEREDTBSS.jpg
 

·
Registered
2007 Trailblazer 3SS
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey to all you guys that provided "useful" information and polite responses, I know, there is every wanna be F1 driver in all crowds..........
I don't know for sure yet, but I'm comparing Tony's kit to another kit, my main problem rather issue is spring rates, differences, are the shocks adjustable (or not like Tony's)
I am in it to make the best of what this heavy beast will give me in the cornering department, heavy or not, you can certainly do the drop in a manner that is show AND go, I've had my experiences with these things, I mean we only built over a dozen of these; (this one, #99 belonging to my older brother) AND he's got more frickin money than the entire team put together, so it stands to reason, he's going to be one of the fastest, not just of team cars, but in the Nation.

102618


Now that it's (shelf life) is through for several sanctions, it's chassis, being a 1975 year is going back to the wide body slant nose look for a B class car of the era in SVRA and MITTY historical events.
Shoot, that thing weighed 3100lbs with driver, most were 2 to 300 lbs lighter. I get a kick out of thinking big brakes with the SS, you know, 14" front and stuff and I realized how HUGE the 911 brakes were.

Oh well, AGAIN, I wanna thank you ALL for the kindness, I am finding that with so many SS owners, it's a great feeling!
teamshot.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
@jimholley1 thanks for your update!

im a track guy too. I like messing with suspensions. The TBSS platform is a bit tough, based on available items on the market. I have the 31.5” kit from Tony and it’s not ideal. There is something wrong with the rear valving for high frequency bumps, and other situations where some more rebound would be nice.

the kw v3 setup gets closer to ideal, but i would like to customize the spring rates, which is not possible. Which opens the door for lesser known products like viking coilovers that are DA, and perhaps a custom spring...

A upgraded rear swaybar was a nice upgrade but a front is really needed simply because of the weight of the suv.those are on backorder from addco. Of course higher spring rates would work too like how bmw does it(they dont use swaybars in some applications)

It’ll never handle like a sportscar, but i would like a firmer and more controlled ride... the kit from tony gets you about 70% there and a good compromise from a cost perspective
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top