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'07 3SS 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since installing the BTR cam may ride has run hot. Originally this was on the stock engine, headers and efans. When it was only headers and fans it was ok.

I only drove it a bit (maybe 1K) before it bent valves. This is what lead to the 402 build.

I've since installed a ColdCase radiator and the HP Spal fans.

On a warm day like today, 110+, it will just barely stay below 220. Even on the freeway.

Now what?

2 bottles of Water Wetter and straight water? I'm in Az, risk of freeze is near zero..
 

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What thermostat do you have? Are the fans set to run 2 speeds? Are the fans operating to 100% of their capabilities?

You shouldn’t be having those issues with the aftermarket radiator and efans.
 

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50/50 distilled water and anti-freeze cools better than 100% of either. Anti-freeze has anti-corrosive additives to help keep your radiator from gunking up.

Have you burp the system for air bubbles? That is a common issue with these trucks.
 

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Waterwetter makes a premix that works better than the additive alone.

both provide anti-corrosion features

but burping is the ultimate solution if not done right already
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
160* t-stat. Prior to the valve issue, it did get hot once after the collision repair...radiator was replaced with OE. It took another 1/2 gallon that time.

It appears to be full. It's gone through many heat cycles, and the reservoir is to the max line. Is there another way?

I ordered a new 160* t-stat and some water wetter Thursday. My next step is an oil cooler. I already have a very large Derale unit with a fan that was left over from another project.
 

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Hmmm.

I would try driving it up on some ramps in the front, open the radiator cap and reservoir tank. Let me it idle for a bit and a few revs too see if it'll move some air pockets out.

It's free and could be helpful.

How old are the hoses? Are they kinked at all? (Sorry if I missed it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like you need a tune. When you install a cam you get more air if you don't tune for more fuel you get hot.
PCMofNC has been tuning it. They are aware of the mods.

Hmmm.

I would try driving it up on some ramps in the front, open the radiator cap and reservoir tank. Let me it idle for a bit and a few revs too see if it'll move some air pockets out.

It's free and could be helpful.

How old are the hoses? Are they kinked at all? (Sorry if I missed it)
My driveway, where I installed the fans, is at a decent angle upward.
 

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How clean is the cooling stack in front of the radiator? Do you have the fan shroud with the Spal fans installed?

Just wondering if the air flow could be impacted some how - either being blocked or taking the non-optimal path around the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How clean is the cooling stack in front of the radiator? Do you have the fan shroud with the Spal fans installed?

Just wondering if the air flow could be impacted some how - either being blocked or taking the non-optimal path around the radiator.
It's all new. My girlfriend T-boned another car with it, other drivers fault.

I have the PCMofNC sheet metal shroud and HD Spal fans.
 

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What you are describing doesn't surprise me .. I have been dealing with this for years.. usually end up not driving it on the hottest days.

I am in Gilbert, mostly stock with PCM of NC Air Intake, 'Old version' of PCM Spal fans (From circa 2011) and a Four Seasons Radiator. Also have the PCM of NC Brake Duct Trans cooler. Hoses are the silicon ones that were sold on here sometime ago (I don't remember who was selling them) I have been running a 160 deg T-Stat. The tune has one Spal fan come on a 192 (I think that is the lowest setting HP tuners would allow) and the other at 198 (so at 198 both are on).

With the Phoenix area heat and stop-n-go traffic it will still get to 220+ on 110+ degree days. If I can keep moving it will usually stay below 212 in the worst heat. The older Spal fan setup and shroud don't seem to allow/move enough air through the larger Four Seasons Radiator when in stop-n-go traffic. The FSR radiator did make a big difference over the stock radiator, but there are still air flow issues.

Maybe the newer PCM Spal setup will help, but I'm not sure I want to spend more on that given the never ending Fuse Box/Ignition Switch issues I am also dealing with...
 

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I have had problems stay cool only when the A/C is on. Found that if I cut the coolant to 70/30 ( 70% water / 30% coolant ) I had not problems sitting in traffic and that was with my LS2 making RWH 465 hp/450 tq. Granted that was in Panama City FLA. and I know that is not as hot as it is in AZ. Now the pass 2 year I am running a supercharger on a LS3 making RWH 615 hp / 575 tq. and now running PCMofNC high output Efans. Still running 70/30 coolant and had no problems running the A/C in traffic or sitting at this time. You could try running more water to get the coolant moving a little fast through the engine but you still need anti-freeze to collect the heat out of the block.
 

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Ever since installing the BTR cam may ride has run hot. Originally this was on the stock engine, headers and efans. When it was only headers and fans it was ok.

I only drove it a bit (maybe 1K) before it bent valves. This is what lead to the 402 build.

I've since installed a ColdCase radiator and the HP Spal fans.

On a warm day like today, 110+, it will just barely stay below 220. Even on the freeway.

Now what?

2 bottles of Water Wetter and straight water? I'm in Az, risk of freeze is near zero..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
but you still need anti-freeze to collect the heat out of the block.
That's not how it works, sorry.

"Anti-freeze", or "coolant" is a chemical (or combination of) that inhibits corrosion, lowers freezing temps, and adds some lubricity. It's heat transfer rate is lower/slower than water alone.

This is why your higher concentration of water to antifreeze worked better. And, why I'm going to dump my current mix.
 
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