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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I did some searching but didn't find the answer to my question.

My camber ended up at -1.2 and -1.3 after lowering about 2 inches (using all of the adjustment).

Do the DJM control arms add any positive camber? I'd like to get the ball joint angle corrected and if these control arms will bring my camber back to spec as well, I'll order the kit today!

Thanks,
Brad
 

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it will help with ball joint angle yes and help on alignment. im trying to get bmr to make us a adjustable upper a arm
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will have them wed!

Now, do I leave my clip in the modified lowered position, or use the DJM shock mount? I know my shock would then have full travel as opposed to the -1.6" it has now . Is anyone here using the shock mounts?

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I didn't mean to do both.

I just figured, if I use the "stock" shock setup and lower it w/ the mount, I would have full travel and not have to worry about wearing out the shock more quickly.

We'll see though. I like the ride height it's at now, dont want to change anything but the ball joint angle and camber.
 

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I just got my set today but won't be able to put it on until Sunday or maybe next week.
I have access to a lift but I will have to rent some of the tools I will need since I'm not at my place where all my stuff is :furious:. How long do you all think it should take a novice (like me) to do the install? I've already worked on the front twice and it's really easy, but just wondering how much longer it should take to do the rest.
 

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you can call me if you have any prob e mail me. The bottom strut takes 2 minutes upper a arm about 30
 

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WOW! That was a chore! It took a lot longer than I anticipated but it's done! All I can say is the driver side front bolt for the control arm was a PITFA. The passenger side was too easy, but damn the one bolt on the driver side front just about killed me. The front dropped down to just under 30 and the rear is right around 30.5. I think I'm going to drop the rear another 1/2" and be done with it. I will say that it does ride really well, even with the lowered springs still in it and there is hardly any negative camber in the front. It should be really easy to align now! I'm really glad I bought the kit now.:biggrin2:
 

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WOW! That was a chore! It took a lot longer than I anticipated but it's done! All I can say is the driver side front bolt for the control arm was a PITFA. The passenger side was too easy, but damn the one bolt on the driver side front just about killed me. The front dropped down to just under 30 and the rear is right around 30.5. I think I'm going to drop the rear another 1/2" and be done with it. I will say that it does ride really well, even with the lowered springs still in it and there is hardly any negative camber in the front. It should be really easy to align now! I'm really glad I bought the kit now.:biggrin2:

prepare for the slapping of the upper a arm on the fenderwell especailly if you kept the drop springs in there.
 

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oh it will do it no qustion about it. even stock springs barly tap but once you put belltechs on its a lot worse. Hell my kbees tap ;)
 

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oh it will do it no qustion about it. even stock springs barly tap but once you put belltechs on its a lot worse. Hell my kbees tap ;)
So is this going to be a really bad thing then?
I can deal with some tapping every now and again, but if it's going to be something that will be really destructive then I'll change back to the stock springs.
 

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what might be bad to you might be ok to someone else but his ok is a lot better than your good so your good is really bad. See what i mean
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What do you guys lube the bushings with?

I greased the zirts after installing, and put some wheel bearing grease on the bolts before installing them (along with the loctite).

I may take everything back out and put some kind of grease between the OD of the Red Bushings and the ID of the Control Arm Body.

Any suggestions?

O yeah, for future reference, these control arms brought my camber out to -0.1 degrees (before re-adjusting), so basically they add about 1 degree of positive camber.

Also, my ball joint angle is back to straight up and down.

Thanks,
Brad
 
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