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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys I just put together this video, It's a DIY for rebuilding the front end on our trucks. Hopefully some people find it helpful.

 

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I didn't watch the whole thing, but a couple things I found interesting.

1. you like to re-use the OEM bolts and didn't want to use the new ones that came with the lower arm. Why?
2. Did you mention that the lower arm has to be torqued while the suspension is loaded? Not while it's up in the air?

Great comprehensive vid otherwise for the areas I jumped around in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't watch the whole thing, but a couple things I found interesting.

1. you like to re-use the OEM bolts and didn't want to use the new ones that came with the lower arm. Why?
2. Did you mention that the lower arm has to be torqued while the suspension is loaded? Not while it's up in the air?

Great comprehensive vid otherwise for the areas I jumped around in.
1 I reused the OEM bolts because one of the bolts came out of the box with the nut cross threaded onto it (When I did the drivers side off camera) and the bolts had a finer thread pitch than the OEM bolts so I just ditched them a retained my OEM hardware because they were in good condition.

2 What reference do you have that says the suspension must be loaded when torqued? After torqueing your control arms you should still be able to move the arm up and down relatively easily as that is how the suspension travels when you drive. If they move freely as they should then the position of the control arm when torqued does not matter. If it is binding or you can't move it(with the strut disconnected obviously) then you have a problem and you should look into it because your bushings will take all the pivoting motion and get destroyed rather quickly. I've done a bunch of these and have had no problems in this area after many years and miles on the road.
 

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@UnderPoweredSS you'll have to look up "preloaded rubber bushings" to get an idea of what I'm talking about. It's basically since the beginning of time that this is a thing and recommended procedure. I'm not making it up.

In a nutshell the metal sleeve is bonded to the rubber vs a urethane bushing and it's sleeve being a free spinning tube in the bushing.

Because it's bonded in a rubber application, you need to tighten it while the suspension is loaded. Using a jack to lift one side at a time is fine. You're essentially tightening the rubber at a certain angle and then lowering the car and the rubber is now under tension. Forever. Where as at rest it shouldn't have any tension. It's really easy to address and common best practice
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@UnderPoweredSS you'll have to look up "preloaded rubber bushings" to get an idea of what I'm talking about. It's basically since the beginning of time that this is a thing and recommended procedure. I'm not making it up.

In a nutshell the metal sleeve is bonded to the rubber vs a urethane bushing and it's sleeve being a free spinning tube in the bushing.

Because it's bonded in a rubber application, you need to tighten it while the suspension is loaded. Using a jack to lift one side at a time is fine. You're essentially tightening the rubber at a certain angle and then lowering the car and the rubber is now under tension. Forever. Where as at rest it shouldn't have any tension. It's really easy to address and common best practice
I did look it up and seems your are correct. I have never done this before and never had any problems but it sure is a thing!
 

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I did look it up and seems your are correct. I have never done this before and never had any problems but it sure is a thing!
Now for the easy button, and this doesn't mess with your alignment at all.

Use ramps, or jackstands... Jackstands under your suspension arms and not frame. Or one side at a time, using a jack to lift suspension up a few inches..
Loosen those nuts on the pivot for the lower arm, and retorque them. That's it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now for the easy button, and this doesn't mess with your alignment at all.

Use ramps, or jackstands... Jackstands under your suspension arms and not frame. Or one side at a time, using a jack to lift suspension up a few inches..
Loosen those nuts on the pivot for the lower arm, and retorque them. That's it.
Already done. I used 4 ramps. took like 3 minutes.
 
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