[Greg Ducato]

The additives will work if you have a glazed clutch, if your clutch is disintegrating it will not help. If you suspect a clutch failure don't put off the repair, that clutch material will quickly clog the filter and cause serious problems in short order.

 

[super-sport]

No, I have not taken it WOT since the problem occured.

Has anyone tried the lubeguard shutter fix fluid?!? Or recommend anything specific?

Any other remedies?

Sorry I wasn't asking if you did this, I was asking what could cause this because my transmission does this

 

[Beckmeister]

The additives will work if you have a glazed clutch, if your clutch is disintegrating it will not help. If you suspect a clutch failure don't put off the repair, that clutch material will quickly clog the filter and cause serious problems in short order.

The additive did not work...

Put the car on the lift, and ran it through all the gears. Operates just fine in 4th gear, but since no load that Torque Converter does not engage.

The car is throwing 2 body codes, however my OBII cannot read them.

Leaving it to almost only be something involving the torque converter, either the torque converter itself, or something in the hydraulic lines. I am personally learning toward the hydraulic lines or of some sort whatever it there "not operating at proper pressure", or some sort, is what Yank told me. They find it hard to believe it is the torque converter as it was just re-finished a year ago, and only has a few thousand miles on it and I have never 4-2 shifted, and have barley beat on it, only made 3-4 passes and a couple on the road.

Only problem is, I have no idea what to look for with the pressures or anything of that sort, (not an expert on automatic transmissions specially the 70E.

They said to get it hooked up to some sort of HP tuner or something and read the body codes, lock converter in 3rd and to read the pressure.

Any input?

 

[Greg Ducato]

It would be nice to be able to bypass the factory computer and command lock up and see what happens. If you have a shop in the area that can do this it would advisable since you cant retrieve a code.The system isn't hugely complicated other than the fact that the rate of apply can vary with computer demand. When the computer sees a slipping clutch , (outside of its parameters)it is going to throw a code, it doesn't have much tolerance, but if everything in its system appears ok to the computer it will not throw a code, even if lockup is not functioning. An example of this would be a brake switch that was out of adjustment or not working. That would be telling the computer to shut off the converter clutch and the computer would still not recognize a problem.

 

[Lowflight]

81k mile stock 07 AWD

D and overdrive don't work or only work after manually shifting up to it.

Guess I'm screwed huh? How much will that repair be?

 

[not quick]

depends if you remove it. Just the trans getting done probably $1500-3500 depending on what you upgrade and converter used.

 

[Lowflight]

Whew, going to rebuild it for $1500

I can live with that.

 

[Beckmeister]

So I grew a pair and just bought a Level 6 RPM transmission... However, the problem did not go away. Still have the same shudder/wobble at crusing speeds in 4th gear.

Is there anyway this could have been casued by a tune, I got my tune maybe a year and a half ago and put probably 8-10,000 miles on the car; however, it was a shit tune.

Or is the only thing left it could be the torque converter?

All of my parts came from PCMofNC besides the converter and transmission, should I go with their Mail Order, or hav someone "attempt" to tune it again for another $400+?

Also, my transmission fluid dipstick reads overfull, yet the fluid is sitting maybe half and inch below the top of the transmission pan. The fluid should be sitting above the top of the transmission pan while running and at idle shouldnt it?

 

[car0linab0y]

20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the trans goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R sooner rather than later.

Think this is my issue by the sound of it. Sits there and grinds when I come to a stop, but if I put it in N and back in "3" or "D" it usually goes away. That or this...

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal; sunshell is fractured. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

Noise is not ALWAYS there, so I lean toward #20. Going to get it checked out this weekend. Trying to find some kind of "all inclusive" Sonnax kit, but no luck. Raybestos good? Better than Transgo at least?

 

[BBA]

20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the trans goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R sooner rather than later.

I had number 20 at 100K miles... in process of rebuild now. I figured since my weakpoint was the thrust load on the planet, I bought a smart shell to hopefully reduce the loading on the planetary bearings.

Nothing else was a problem for me, but I also tuned the trans to live with slightly higher shift pressures and minimally reduced TM from the time the truck was 6 months old. I think that strategy worked well, since I'm on ten years of pretty hard driving (I like downshifting a lot).

 

[BBA]

So I grew a pair and just bought a Level 6 RPM transmission... However, the problem did not go away. Still have the same shudder/wobble at crusing speeds in 4th gear.

Is there anyway this could have been casued by a tune, I got my tune maybe a year and a half ago and put probably 8-10,000 miles on the car; however, it was a shit tune.

Or is the only thing left it could be the torque converter?

All of my parts came from PCMofNC besides the converter and transmission, should I go with their Mail Order, or hav someone "attempt" to tune it again for another $400+?

Also, my transmission fluid dipstick reads overfull, yet the fluid is sitting maybe half and inch below the top of the transmission pan. The fluid should be sitting above the top of the transmission pan while running and at idle shouldnt it?

Shudder in 4th is almost ALWAYS the torque converter clutch. You can reduce the symptom by putting a bottle of transmedic in, or even a 1/4 quart of motor oil. The real fix is a new converter.

 

[sportster]

Thanks most useful information

 

[Transman304]

Shudder in 4th is almost ALWAYS the torque converter clutch. You can reduce the symptom by putting a bottle of transmedic in, or even a 1/4 quart of motor oil. The real fix is a new converter.

Haven't heard of using motor oil since the early 90s. Was a common practice to add Mobile 30 to transmission in Dodge RWD to help keep OD planets alive.

 

[grandprixz]

Sudden failure

Coming home about 20min ago right outside my neighborhood. Loud noise, shudder, and grinding sound. Sound like a old roller coaster chain. Crawled home and she bucked and made noise. Same issue in any gear forward, reverse and moving in coasting in neutral.

sounds like #7 on the sticky:

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal; sunshell is fractured. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

 

[grandprixz]

Sudden failure

Coming home about 20min ago right outside my neighborhood. Loud noise, shudder, and grinding sound. Sound like a old roller coaster chain. Crawled home and she bucked and made noise. Same issue in any gear forward, reverse and moving in coasting in neutral.

sounds like #7 on the sticky:

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal; sunshell is fractured. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

 

[MI_Louie]

I'm having an issue that I don't see any info for, if I'm looking in the wrong spot just point me in the right direction. From about 1/2 throttle (shifter in 3rd) it seems to be stuck in 2nd at times and won't shift to 3rd unless I completely let off the gas. In 3rd (shifter in 3rd) around 50mph if I press the throttle enough to call for a 3-2 downshift it will seem to miss the shift and freewheel. I let off the throttle and it will go back into 3rd. The problem does not repeat itself every time. Seems to happen more at 1/2 throttle than a pedal mashing downshift, which I try to avoid. Other than it doing those things every once in a while it shifts like it's supposed to. I have a tune from LT1Z and Phoenix trans rebuilt it but that was before I bought it so I don't know exactly what the rebuild consisted of other than a billet output shaft. Any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dan Diego]

Maintnence,Fluid,Driving style, and heat are the #1 killers of transmissions...

followed by parts failure.

Spot on. Have addressed clutch slip with adding fluid (after being told it was master cylinder failure).

 

[tim_shue]

Had #17 happen to mine at about 130k

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

 

[TrapsBrah]

2. 1-2 shift does not happen at WOT until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Doublecheck by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).

Having this issue above. Along with a flickering check engine light under heavy acceleration and hesitation doesn't seem to be a misfire plugs and wires appear fine. Strange. Drive train does seem noisy here and there.

 

[Blackhawk15t]

Just crossed 193k miles on my (insert derogatory term here) 4l70. # 20 in the OP is the closest match to the signs my trans is showing.

What does the referenced “noise” sound like? I’m getting a sound exactly like the park pawl trying to engage while the vehicle is still moving.

I have not dropped the pan yet to see if it spit any parts into it. That will happen later. Last work done was sonnax performance pack, super 2nd and 4th Servos, HD 3-2 valve and a separator plate almost 2 years and just shy of 50,000 miles ago. There is no slip, no codes, no hard shifts, no shudder, fluid is full and not burnt...

Any help would be peachumated.

Edit: I spent a few paid hours at work digging through the interwebs and this site to find this sticky being the closest answer thus far. Bump to the OP.