[sixols2]

ive done a cam and ported heads but im getting a misfire when driving according to the tech 2 what plugs are you using? i had the tr6 gapped at .40 then changed back to stock at .60 still the same and its all cylinders i know it should technically misfire at idle but not accelerating :dunno:

 

[Blades]

I think you need to desensitize your misfire tables.. Are you feeling this misfire? Do you have a converter as well? Do you have stock spark plug wires?

 

[sixols2]

I think you need to desensitize your misfire tables.. Are you feeling this misfire? Do you have a converter as well? Do you have stock spark plug wires?

3600 stall taylor 10.4 wires and i do not feel the misfires at all

 

[Blades]

The cam and the stall converter will work together to tweak the fuck out of the stock misfire tables. Is your converter not locking up consistently? Its because of the misfire count and misfire dtc. I would adjust the misfire tables to simmah down.

Gotta ask.. why the TR6s? Why not TR55IX?

 

[sixols2]

The cam and the stall converter will work together to tweak the fuck out of the stock misfire tables. Is your converter not locking up consistently? Its because of the misfire count and misfire dtc. I would adjust the misfire tables to simmah down.

Gotta ask.. why the TR6s? Why not TR55IX?

was told should use tr6 ill be willing to try the tr55ix if you think they are better

 

[Blades]

I just thought TR6s were more for boost/nitrous. TR55s seem to be the favorite over at ls1tech and the ix's, although more expensive are more durable.

 

[sixols2]

i think ill try the tr55's parts store has them in stock already checked thanks for the help

 

[Blades]

Well, I had TR6s and had some misfire and I put in TR55s, then TR55IXs and it was pretty much still there. However, I think I might've damaged some wires in the process.. Do you have any surging at idle or on coastdown? I still would suggest to use the TR55s.. TR6s are mostly FI business. Good luck on the install.. bring some band aids and a maybe even a punching bag.

 

[sixols2]

hard to tell things loping like a funny car doesnt feel like misfiring though ill try the tr55's and see what happens tomorrow got a race sunday hopefully

 

[northernSS]

I have the misfire too.

 

[Blades]

You guys both need to ask your tuners if they have desensitized your misfire tables. There are three tables. Revolution Mode (Normal). Cylinder Mode [Idle (Not Moving)]. and Cylinder Mode (Normal).

Increasing these values makes the car less sensitive to call a misfire.

check out this thread for more reading:
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6906

some highlights

I bet a cam drives it crazy.

Definitely. I usually multiply the low end (Idle events) for cams by 2 as a starting point.

Heres a good one, NorthernSS has the misfire and the Granatelli Plug Wires.. Thats got to tell you that the car isn't misfiring!! What are people supposed to do? Get new coil packs? BS!! Ask your tuners if you they modded those tables.

Also.. is the CEL flashing for you guys?

 

[MyGoatBites]

Well the duration,lsa, and install CL have a lot to do with those code. THe misfire info above is right on the money. I take the table to the max which if I remember right is 32676 and there are TWO tables to change. A moving and a non-moving.

 

[Blades]

Also.. if you have a lower LSA cam you might want to run in open loop under 1000-1200rpm. But remember, tune that section or you'll be running pretty rich. High KPA idle from the cam puts open loop into "lets dump some fuel" mode. Once you set your commanded afr in open loop to lets say. 14.7... then you go and disable dynamic airflow below 1200..
Dynamic airflow is a blend of VE and MAF values.. Now tune your MAF values for the idle/coasting rpms that you set to open loop.. NOW re-enable dynamic airflow (if you choose to do so).

Don't ask me how to properly tune VE becuase I have no clue.. No one really does for the LS2.

Edit: The reason for wanting to run in open loop is because the overlap will push fresh air thru and the o2 sensors will be buggin out trying to compensate.. So while the o2 sensors are trying to get you at 14.7... its not really going to be 14.7. Its going to be stinky and hard on your gas wallet.