I was considering on bypassing the bose amp when i purchase a new head unit/speakers. Which metro kit do you need for bypassing? I have always installed my own car stereos but never bypassed before. has anyone does this or possibly have an extra harness around?
bypassing bose amp / help
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Yeah I don't install mine, but did some looking years ago and I don't think there is a harness to bypass that.
It doesn't need a kit, cut the factory plugs off and connect wires to where they need to go. Rear Seat Audio will no longer function. Audio signal from the HU is plain analog, just splice RCA connectors onto those wires. The OEM Bose rear door speakers are 4 ohm, full range. Same for the dash speakers. Front door speakers are subwoofers and 2 ohm. I used a 5-channel amp and connected the FT door speakers in series for a 4 ohm mono load.
This is the pinout for the UQA amp connectors.
This is the pinout for the UQA amp connectors.
Attachments
Do you get stray signal noise when there's no active audio signal, and/or a turn-off thump? Mine does. I used a PPI 900.5 which as far as I can tell is sold as several different 'brands', Soundstream being one of them.
The stock UQA amp has a mute function, active whenever the head unit isn't outputting a true signal. For instance when radio is on, volume turned to 0, the mute pin triggers (~5VDC), which shorts the low level inputs and kills any stray noise on the lines. I have a rough design for a DIY adapter that does the same thing but haven't got around to building it yet.
Do not cut your stock wiring. There are plenty of aftermarket wiring harnesses that allow to plug right in and not make it look like a hack job. I used a Metra GMOS-01 wiring harness. This will allow you to bypass the BOSE amp and connect an aftermarket amp. It also retains R.A.P. (retained accessory power), Onstar, and chimes. You lose all of that if you simply cut and splice wires together.
You don't need any of that GMOS-01 kit if you are keeping the stock head unit. The factory harness to the UQA amp already has all of the analog signals needed present at the two connectors in the rear. Nobody makes a breakout harness/pigtail to go from the stock amp connectors to bare wires to put an aftermarket amp in place of the stock amp. There's no need to touch anything in the dash at all.
You can make one yourself (I did...) but it's a huge pain in the ass finding the matching connector bodies and terminals. The mate for 24-way C1 is Delphi 15305213. I thought I had found the mate for C2 but it was wrong - I got lucky and found one that would work on an old part of some unknown Toyota harness in my junk box. If I had it to do again, I would just cut the two connectors off, leaving enough wire on the connector side that it could be spliced back to stock later if needed.
You can make one yourself (I did...) but it's a huge pain in the ass finding the matching connector bodies and terminals. The mate for 24-way C1 is Delphi 15305213. I thought I had found the mate for C2 but it was wrong - I got lucky and found one that would work on an old part of some unknown Toyota harness in my junk box. If I had it to do again, I would just cut the two connectors off, leaving enough wire on the connector side that it could be spliced back to stock later if needed.
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