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2006 TBSS
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’m Gunna be dropping my stroker motor in building in my SS gunna be it minimum doubling the stock horsepower here’s the question that’s bouncing around and I can’t decide and i don’t have a crew of TBSS owners in southern IL to contact for advice. Do i Ditch the AWD and just go RWD or do I go ahead and put all the AWD components back in and cross my fingers they hold up. I’m sure my SS will go through many stages over the next few years but this is gunna be run number one I bought it with a dead cylinder #5 and i’m building a healthy Strocker that is gunna be Boosted I’m building a driver not a show car but as running double the stick horsepower minimum with 3500 to 3800 stall just thought i’d ask for some input from some guys that may or have been right where i’m at before ?
Thanks guys and lady’s any info is appreciated thanks
 

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Sold
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If you are going to build that much power I would recommend going 2wd and start budgeting for a build transmission to mate the higher stall to.

Only reason to keep AWD is if you plan to drive in harsh weather conditions.

Or if you like 4 wheel burnouts and turning wrenches frequently........
 

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2006 TBSS
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
theheder,
Thank you so much for the input this the the information and opinions i am looking fo from the people that have been there before you can always come up with reasons for either way but with input from the experts i can make sur my pro’s and con’s are in line
Thanks again
 

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2008 Black TBSS
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3,493 Posts
I'm NA, but I can tell you that a 3600 stall puts a load on the trans. I stay AWD because of where I live. I may be one of the few with a mid 12 sec winter beater. The correct stall should be matched to the engines power curve. What kind/level of boost are you planning?
 

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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #5
I'm NA, but I can tell you that a 3600 stall puts a load on the trans. I stay AWD because of where I live. I may be one of the few with a mid 12 sec winter beater. The correct stall should be matched to the engines power curve. What kind/level of boost are you planning?
Looking at 10 to 13 psi
 

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TrailblazerSS
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150 Posts
I am working on building a boosted AWD SS. Previous owner built the motor with a great foundation for a TVS2300. I then blew the trans so I went with a level 5 build with a 2900 billet converter from Robert Godfrey. I then sent the diff out to John Frey for a torsion upgrade along with the modified disconnect and chrome moly cross shaft. I also picked up a set of his front axels. I was either going to ditch the AWD or go for broke. Both of these guys were great to deal with. Once I get the TVS mounted up I should have a very dependable and fast AWD SS.
 

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2006 TBSS
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Def sounds like you decided to pay the toll to keep the AWD should be able to hold up to the power and namely the torque that is heading it’s way. I’m not ready to spend that kind of change right now maybe i just answered my own question. It’s not like these parts can’t be tucked away and pulled back out after everything else is 100% and also when i can afford to to the build as you have.
Thanks
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Looking at 10 to 13 psi
Supercharger (what kind) or turbo? Def think that makes a big difference on stall as well as awd or not. Are you planning on if you swap to rwd stick with the 4L70 or go 4L80 or even 6L90?

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #9
I’ve got to turbos to try out 70mm and a 80mm I have a fresh FL70 in there now but unfortunately it’s mild not made to hold up so it’s not gunna last long but at least i’m not expecting miracles when the 70 goes there no tell what i’ll go to I like to be different that’s for sure lol this started out as buying a mechanic’s special thought it may have had a bent valve now it has turned in to something all together more interesting but i’m enjoying and it’s keeping my mind busy it’s def taking care of that for me.
Thanks again for input and opinions from those who know and have been there done that.
 

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TrailblazerSS
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Im awd and bought it for that reason so id never remove it but im not making 600+hp iv got another toy for that.. for what your lookin at goin w a single snail id personally go rwd with a 4L80, seems to hold the power and you can keep your foot in rad support between shifts. Buy stock in rubbers. Giggity.

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #11
oh it’s def gunna be fun i’ve been building and riding 4 wheelers for therapy the past four to five years and this is my first street leafs monster since before the service and so far so good sure i didn’t plan on holes in the #5 head piston and crack in the aluminum block but i’ve made the best of it and looked at it as a challenge Civteck I do appreciate all the info hey look at this lunati crank isn’t it beautiful
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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #12
Tomorrow if time allows i’ll have these scar rods and dss piston in place and spinning like butter
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TrailblazerSS
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Thank you for your service.
Have you seen Oscars turbo kit here on the forum? Looks like your building a monster. Plans on heads, fueling, etc?

Sent from my boujea ass phone
 

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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #14
You are Very Welcome I haven’t seen Oscars kit i’m still learning oh to maneuver the site i’m very technologically challenged I have a set of 80 EV6 injectors i plan on using and i have acquired a in the tank E85 capable dual dual pump in hopping with some tweaking and more research i can make everything play nice together i’m polishing my own throttle body and if i decide i’m incapable i’ll get one from dfwwiz a member here on the forum who sold me my oil starvation block off plate he sent me pics and he does son nice polishing that is for sure. I also plan on doing my own port and polishing on the 243 heads nothing to crazy though just take the edges off and i really don’t think i need to mess with the stock intake if it come down to that i think i’ll just save and replace i’ve never put a dual pump like this in the tank before so that will we be a bit of a learning curve i know i need to run a bigger gauge positive back but i’m not sure if i need to by a dual relay kit this is all still info i have to learn as i go
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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #15
I’d love to say i could afford top of the line everything but just not in the card but i have tried to be smart with my money and spend it where it was needed i also did some barter and trading like that fuel pump and injectors came from a trade with the guy i got my LQ4 block from and since then i’d say he’s actually became a friend even calls to check up on me from time to time to see how i’m holding up you only find that in the Service and the car and bike and firearm community but it’s a big deal for me being that i’m very closed off to personal relationships
 

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07 tbss awd
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I make about 700awhp and I’ve had no issues with my stock front diff.

All you really need to hold the power your looking for is an additional pedestal mount on the oil pan for the Awd carrier, a us power train awd carrier and at a minimum a cryo treated cross shaft. If you can weld aluminum that’s only about 400 bucks.

If you do decide to go 2wd you will need to tear down your trans and install a 2wd output shaft and tail shaft housing. As well as have a new drive shaft made or buy a stock 2wd shaft.

If you decide to get more serious with the front diff expect to pay bully racing about $1100 in parts for a Torsen diff, cryo’ed gears and a full rebuild kit. Or about $1700 for a complete ready to go front diff. The Torsen isn’t necessary for additional power but it helps with more traction.

The only other cheap option you have to go 2wd is buy a stock selectable transfercase and just leave it in 2wd. That way you can switch back to awd much more easily.

If your going to keep the awd I suggest rebuilding your diff now before you drop them engine back in. You can probably get a full rebuild kit and cryo’ed gears from bully racing for $600 bucks.

So for about $1000 you will have a pretty damn reliable awd system.

To switch to 2wd you’ll probably spend $600 for an output shaft tail shaft housing and drive shaft, if you can install the output shaft yourself. Otherwise closer to 1200-1500 because of the labor to install the 2wd output shaft.

Of course you can spend about 1700 on a diff, 250 on a carrier, 300 on a billet collar and 300 for a billet cross shaft if you want the best of the best.
 

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07 tbss awd
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1,214 Posts


This photo shows where the new pedestal mount for the carrier needs to be welded in. It’s the top right bolt on the carrier.

Years ago someone smarter than me decided that flex in the awd carrier is what causes the wear to the collar and shaft in the factory design.
 

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2006 TBSS
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Discussion Starter #19
Awdvette,

That is some seriously awesome information it would take me days researching to find that info out if I ever even would find it out or stumble upon it. Have you done anything C/V axle wise or have they held up fine I have a relative that’s a boiler maker and has the ability to weld thing like that for me so i don’t see the extra mount being a issue so I will have it done now while the pan is off that way no matter what it’s done. Funny I hadn’t even thought of putting the stock selectable transfer case in to hold the position while i sort everything out. The diff i have had just been rebuilt when i got it i have the receipt but def nothing performance and definitely not cryo’d gears in gunna look into the gears and the cross shaft. That’s a nice clean engine you have built there that charger will be so much easier than all the plumbing i have in my future
Thanks again for all the information a wealth of awd knowledge
 

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07 tbss awd
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1,214 Posts
I haven’t done anything with the cv axles they are bone stock with 175k miles. Never had an issue, the driveshaft shop makes a decent set and bully racing sells a cryo treated set.

I’ve not heard of a single instance of anyone breaking a front cv shaft from power input and a few others have made a lot more power than me.

I’ll bet if you bought some garbage Chinese ones you would have a problem. But stock units are plenty strong enough for street use. I mean anything can break at the track on slicks.

If your diff was recently rebuilt, it should be fine, again I’ve never seen a front diff fail from power input. They fail all the time when improperly maintained but that’s true with anything.

Here’s a link to the awd carrier I run, NEW Trailblazer, Envoy, Rainier, Bravada AWD front axle disconnect assembly | US Powertrain

Nice piece for the price and then for a cryo cross shaft just get ahold of John over at bully racing. The cryo cross shaft isn’t the best of the best but it’s better than stock for the same price.
 
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