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Discussion Starter #1
I would like an opinion on a alignment I just had done . To give a history( stock height ) , I replaced the upper and lower a arms with aftermarket about 2 years ago . Tires were just ok at the time . Noticed the driver side inner tire was wore pretty bad . Jacked it up to investigate and the lower ball joints were already loose and wore pretty bad . Also had a bad tie rod passager side . So I replaces both lower ball and both tie rods as well . Rest was ok . Had tires put on and alignment . Shop say need to take it to a frame shop . I would like an opinion to know if this is out enough to worry about . Here is the print out the shop gave me .

Also do you think I had something wrong to why the lower ball joints wore so soon . Or are they just cheep ones the aftermarket a arms are installed with .
 

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That isn't too bad. It might drift slightly right, but shouldn't cause any tire wear on any other problems. If it were mine I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That isn't too bad. It might drift slightly right, but shouldn't cause any tire wear on any other problems. If it were mine I wouldn't worry about it.
This is what I was wondering if it was bad enough to worry about .The tb steers straight . I dont seem to notice any problems . It had not been in a wreck . Do you think the aftermarket lower a arm may have caused this . Has anyone experienced this after installing the aftermarket lower a arms that is already loaded .

Thanks for the reply mf68chevelle
 

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its hard to tell what they have done, or if you still have some adjustment left in it. thats the problem we have here. it should have any issues tho. mine has actually abit more camber in mine and its doing good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its hard to tell what they have done, or if you still have some adjustment left in it. thats the problem we have here. it should have any issues tho. mine has actually abit more camber in mine and its doing good.
Alignment shop said they could not get enough to bring it in spec . The frame shop I talked to said he would run it and keep and eye on the tire . Said if it was going to wear it would be on the inside drivers . Too early to tell right now since I just put tires on . Just did not want to ruin new tires . From what I am hearing from everyone I guess I will give it some time and see what happens . The thing drives pretty good as is .
 

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The alignment isnt too far out at all. The camber on the left is out of specs, but not by much. I'd want -0.09 on both sides for camber for handling.

That's odd that it drives straight down the road with a cross caster spec of 0.03, but each vehicle varies. I'd like to see some negative cross caster to counter the road crown, but if you're happy with how it drives, then it doesnt matter. Caster specs do NOT induce tire wear. It primarily controls the left and right tracking of a vehicle. Positive caster will track the vehicle to the right and negative caster will track to the left. On a flat smooth road, 0.0 caster would make the vehicle go straight. However, roads have a slight crown to them that slopes off to the right for water runoff. Therefore, you would typically push for negative caster to counter the road crown.

Camber and toe specs are the critical ones that dictate tire wear. Negative camber will cause some premature wear towards the inside of a tire. Negative camber is good to have for handling characteristics.

Toe is referring to how parallel the left and right tire is to the other. 0.0 is ok for toe, but some positive toe on both sides is ideal. I'd prefer to split the manufactures specified range and go in the middle on toe specs for both sides. That helps maintain driveability and prevent the vehicle from wondering side to side.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The alignment isnt too far out at all. The camber on the left is out of specs, but not by much. I'd want -0.09 on both sides for camber for handling.

That's odd that it drives straight down the road with a cross caster spec of 0.03, but each vehicle varies. I'd like to see some negative cross caster to counter the road crown, but if you're happy with how it drives, then it doesnt matter. Caster specs do NOT induce tire wear. It primarily controls the left and right tracking of a vehicle. Positive caster will track the vehicle to the right and negative caster will track to the left. On a flat smooth road, 0.0 caster would make the vehicle go straight. However, roads have a slight crown to them that slopes off to the right for water runoff. Therefore, you would typically push for negative caster to counter the road crown.

Camber and toe specs are the critical ones that dictate tire wear. Negative camber will cause some premature wear towards the inside of a tire. Negative camber is good to have for handling characteristics.

Toe is referring to how parallel the left and right tire is to the other. 0.0 is ok for toe, but some positive toe on both sides is ideal. I'd prefer to split the manufactures specified range and go in the middle on toe specs for both sides. That helps maintain driveability and prevent the vehicle from wondering side to side.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
The alignment isnt too far out at all. The camber on the left is out of specs, but not by much. I'd want -0.09 on both sides for camber for handling.

That's odd that it drives straight down the road with a cross caster spec of 0.03, but each vehicle varies. I'd like to see some negative cross caster to counter the road crown, but if you're happy with how it drives, then it doesnt matter. Caster specs do NOT induce tire wear. It primarily controls the left and right tracking of a vehicle. Positive caster will track the vehicle to the right and negative caster will track to the left. On a flat smooth road, 0.0 caster would make the vehicle go straight. However, roads have a slight crown to them that slopes off to the right for water runoff. Therefore, you would typically push for negative caster to counter the road crown.

Camber and toe specs are the critical ones that dictate tire wear. Negative camber will cause some premature wear towards the inside of a tire. Negative camber is good to have for handling characteristics.

Toe is referring to how parallel the left and right tire is to the other. 0.0 is ok for toe, but some positive toe on both sides is ideal. I'd prefer to split the manufactures specified range and go in the middle on toe specs for both sides. That helps maintain driveability and prevent the vehicle from wondering side to side.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info , This is a daily driver and have been watching the new tires . As of yet to see any tire wear or negative affects . It does seem to track pretty good so far . As for the suggestions from other members as well is to drive it . This is what I plan to do right now and if any problems I will use all of this info from here to make a decision on which way to go .

One think I did not get a answer on is if anyone had problems with a alignment after installing the aftermarket upper and lower a arms . Just wonder if this could be the problem . Also how much movement is needed to bring it into spec . Could the A arm be ground some to bring it into spec if it is not much . Just thinking , if I do have to address this in the future . May try this first before the frame shop if a slight notch would work to get it back to spec . Or is this a bad idea . Again , The ss has never been hit .

Thanks for everyone input .
 
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