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2007 RWD TVS 1900, E85, TL headers,
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This may not be an impressive build but I decided to post up some pics of my tbss. I ordered a tvs1900 in July of 2021 and installed it in December of 2021. I had a lifter that was going bad so I convinced my wife that the engine tear down was necessary. While is was apart I installed a set of speed engineering 1-7/8” headers (horrible experience), new 243 heads, ls7 lifters, moly pushrods, kennne bell BAP. Still working on the tune. I have a set of 1000 cc FIC injectors on the way and a 450 pump ready to go in. This is the factory motor and trans with around 140,000 miles. The short block looks amazing for so many miles. I currently have the car running but it’s eating serpentine belts. I just ordered an HD tensioner from Mike who is now running left coast32. From my understanding I will be the 1st tbss running this tensioner. I’ll post pics when it comes in. I have ran into a few issues along the way which I will post when I have the time.
 

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2007 RWD TVS 1900, E85, TL headers,
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The speed engineering 1 7/8” headers were a bitch to install. The driver side dropped in with no issue. The passenger side required removing the motor and trans mounts, Giant pry bar, dead blow hammer, new heater core hoses, and the testicular fortitude to swing a hammer with no regard for breaking shit. Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Coil spring Hood Automotive exterior
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2007 RWD TVS 1900, E85, TL headers,
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FYI I found out the hard way that the magunson tensioner does not fit. It requires bending the AC lines. I did it with out any issue but I wouldn’t be surprised if someone kinked or broke an AC line during the install.
 

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2007 RWD TVS 1900, E85, TL headers,
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have an interchiller kit ordered and expecting it any day now.
 

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2008 TrailblazerSS
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This may not be an impressive build but I decided to post up some pics of my tbss. I ordered a tvs1900 in July of 2021 and installed it in December of 2021. I had a lifter that was going bad so I convinced my wife that the engine tear down was necessary. While is was apart I installed a set of speed engineering 1-7/8” headers (horrible experience), new 243 heads, ls7 lifters, moly pushrods, kennne bell BAP. Still working on the tune. I have a set of 1000 cc FIC injectors on the way and a 450 pump ready to go in. This is the factory motor and trans with around 140,000 miles. The short block looks amazing for so many miles. I currently have the car running but it’s eating serpentine belts. I just ordered an HD tensioner from Mike who is now running left coast32. From my understanding I will be the 1st tbss running this tensioner. I’ll post pics when it comes in. I have ran into a few issues along the way which I will post when I have the time.
Def gonna need an hd tensioner and green belt.
 

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Sweet build! I convinced my wife as well that the engine needed work….and I ended up putting in GM “hot cam” LS3!

Anyone else experience similar issues with those headers? I was considering ordering the same, but hoping to avoid install issues. Glad you got them to work though! Can’t wait to see some videos of it running.
 

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'07 3SS 2WD
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I had my Speed LTs done by a buddy with a lift. He ended up removing all the A/C components for room. I had him do motor mounts at the same time, as I'd read in the install instructions removing them was necessary.

He said once he got the A/C stuff out of the way, it was no big deal. FYI for others.
 

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07 AWD 3SS
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ya that looks really good, crazy how clean that engine is, funny how things last when you change the oil and take care of them lol

dude, I'm usually not a fan of blacked out wheels and blacked out badges etc but I seriously like how the little shiny accents like the tire labels and outline around the bowtie look. and you kept the brake duct thingies shiny... nice little outline around the SSs, ya that looks good, and thats a nice hood also. not overdone. nice
 

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07 AWD 3SS
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337 Posts
question for ya- the steam vent routing. you stayed with the magnuson setup and vacuum filled the system? Left the OEM rear steam vent caps on? I'm just curious thx
 

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2007 RWD TVS 1900, E85, TL headers,
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did vacuum the system with a harbor freight setup that cost around $60. I didn’t touch the rear steam vents mostly because the heads I bought didn’t have a provision for them. I’ve never seen that before. refurbished 243 casting didn’t have the steam vents in the rear. They were specific to which side of the motor they went on.
I’m not usually a fan of the murdered out look either but the last time I took the car to get tires they destroyed the face of my rims. After that I had a friend bead blast them and painted to match the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had my Speed LTs done by a buddy with a lift. He ended up removing all the A/C components for room. I had him do motor mounts at the same time, as I'd read in the install instructions removing them was necessary.

He said once he got the A/C stuff out of the way, it was no big deal. FYI for others.
I didn’t have to remove any AC stuff to install them. I did have to push the dryer out of the way but that was minor compared to everything else I had to do to get the passenger side to slip in place. I’m happy I got them installed and very happy with how they look and sound. If anyone makes a better header that doesn’t require so much work to put in I would Recommend to go that route.
 

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If anyone makes a better header that doesn’t require so much work to put in I would Recommend to go that route.
Kooks headers - buy once / cry once
 

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I didn’t have to remove any AC stuff to install them. I did have to push the dryer out of the way but that was minor compared to everything else I had to do to get the passenger side to slip in place. I’m happy I got them installed and very happy with how they look and sound. If anyone makes a better header that doesn’t require so much work to put in I would Recommend to go that route.
Having the truck on a lift allowed him to go in from the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A friend gave me a smaller pulley for the supercharger. I thinks it’s 2.9”. I’m still waiting on the hd tensioner to come in. When it does I would like to install the smaller pulley if it doesn’t require a tune. Does anyone know the answer to this? I have read a lot of different opinions on this. I have other parts on their way so I don’t mind waiting and putting everything in at one time and not having to get the car tuned multiple times.
 

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more boost at the same engine rpm/iat will mean more fuel required and probably less spark, so short answer is yes on that. Depends on how good your starting tune is, tho, right- like the stock TBSS tune and the way most people do these with a 1 bar OS/sensor- TPS req percent for PE (power enrich) very low, RPM req very low, MAP 94kpa or greater. so basically once positive pressure is in the manifold, PE go 1.2x EQ ratio up to 6400 or whatever, no matter what the actual boost level is in the manifold, can't measure it anyway, right- 1 bar map sensor on 1bar OS. so then you just fudge IFR/AFR/ EQ ratio to get your fueling right up to x boost but ONLY per rpm,the computer doesn't know how much boost is there, it just knows 'spray this much at this rpm when in PE'

my tune from PCM is scaled for a 2 bar map sensor, that just means the computer will know it has a 2 bar map sensor for logs and such, I still have the 1 bar OS but MAP scaled up to 2 bar. So basically I'm in the same boat, but I will know how much boost is in the manifold with the 2 bar sensor, even if the tune can't go up to 150kpa and add fuel there etc like the HP tuenrs custom OS (i may to do that after shes runnin)

so ya you'll need a retune for more boost at the same given RPM. im a DIY not a pro, this is my opinion

I say it depends on the tune because if you have a 3 bar OS with a 3 bar map and fully mapped fuel/spark/PE info from 0 bar to 3 bar, ya, you could just slap a different pulley on because the computer already knows what to do at 2.7 bar 90 deg IAT and 4600 RPM etc. But we don't have that here in commonfolk land i think. Not to mention if you're not running a VRFPR, you'll lose x percent of fuel available at whatever boost level, right- 14 lbs of boost in the manifold means 58 psi injectors only squirt 44 psi worth of fuel at x pph, VR/Boost ref FPR setups are good to fix this

I'm not mentioning the MAF sensor because my tune is SD only, there is obviously more that goes into the whole PE fuel calculation etc, like stock tune is MAF only above 4k rpm. I went SD because I will overflow the stock MAF and I don't feel like messing with an LS7 MAF, speed density is fine for this imo. some guys run MAF only boosted setups, right, but that's a whole different thing outside the scope of this run on post.


edit- for example on the MAF thing and fueling- If your magnuson tune has the factory MAF only stuff above 4k rpm still enabled, that means (and you probably know this, but I just want to touch on it real quick for my own sanity tbh) your last fuel trim before PE against the rising Hz flow rate of the MAF combined with IAT, ECT, SA, PE modifiers and the desired EQ ratio for RPM then converted to pulse width, squirt. That's a laymans version also, fwiw. Catch on that is if (and they all are off a little bit) your MAF table isn't pretty much dead nuts on, you will be lean in PE and not know it because in a stock setup, no wideband. Same goes for Speed density only, right- if your VE (gen3) or VVE coefficients (gen4) are not dead nuts on , then when you go into PE you're lean because no wideband to confirm the tables (PE EQ ratio also) and homey don't play lean with forced induction on the 5300lb land yacht. My opinion on the MAF only above 4k RPM for all the factory tunes is that the MAF sensor is a true measurement of the exact mass of air entering each cylinder, so makes sense that GM uses that when going WOT fuel, its going to be more accurate BUT that MAF hz table has to be dead nuts on- which they aren't FROM THE FACTORY with a STOCK AIR CLEANER and everything stock (cam, exhaust, everything). There are a bunch of smart PhDs makin the tunes at GM, makes sense they do that even though the MAF sensor is best suited for static flow, like cruise or idle because it is a true measurement, just a bit slower than looking up tables/VVE polynomial math like speed density does when you're driving aggressively and changing flow conditions quickly.

Its actually a really cool system, the whole blended VVE/MAF system, your system falls back on the VE/VVE numbers if the MAF fails, but leans towards the MAF for better efficiency where vehicles spend most of their time, highway and idle, both steady state flow conditions. Tough to put a percentage on it, right- like 'oh, the computer uses VE 35% of the time and the rest is MAF only', eh I think there are some big equations and lots of variables those PhDs put in there to do that tbh

BTW some people say oh, yah, the computer can correct (closed loop, not PE OL), which is true. When I first installed the LQ9 (tahoe), ya it ran fine, more power/torque, sure. But when I simply adjusted the MAF to +/- 1-2% LTFT, night and day difference... tip in is fast and muuuuch more torquey, idles better, accelerates harder (makes sense, right- the computer is within 1% of perfect fuel immediately versus 9-10% lean then having to adjust, by then I'm done accelerating), just runs better and that was 20 minutes of 'tuning' the MAF hz table. That's the only thing I changed (that was in april 2020). Ya, the computer can learn fuel trims for reference for next time, but based on real world experience it doesn't cut it. The computers are good and getting better (im sure the gen5 stuff is crazy good) but aim small miss small right-

But like I was sayin, that maggie tune prolly has things tweaked like someone above said to satisfy CARB, which means something along the lines of not changing the normal stuff you do when you tune ( I really call it correcting ) the tables/VVE in the computer. So (tahoe example above, same for TBSS) , I just added that much to the MAF table, confirmed that VE (SD only, VVE for gen 4, but same same) was +/- 2 LTFT by disabling the MAF, then running MAF only to confirm trims are +/- 2 LTFT for MAF only, then turning SD back on for the whole 'blended' deal. I did need to change BOTH the VVE and MAF for the TBSS after headers and CAI, which is the right answer because when you get into PE, the computer has to be close to perfect (+/- 2 LTFT/STFT, SD or MAF only, PE is straight up squirting fuel according to MAF hz or VVE x PE EQ ratio vs RPM and not listening to O2 feedback anymore). I doubt magnuson adjusted the maf hz tables, like someone was sayin, that's a 'violation' prolly. i like this tuning/correcting stuff if you can't tell. just wind me up and watch the barf flow on the screen lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you. That’s a lot of good info. I have not yet upgraded the OS to the 2 bar but I will probably be doing it by next weekend if I can ever get my laptop back from my daughter. I’m still trying to decide between tuning the car myself or using PCM of NC. It looks pretty straight forward just don’t want to grenade my motor. Until then I’ll hold off on the pulley and keep adding parts as they come in.
 

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I'm gonna do the same (go to 2 bar custom OS) once she's runnin. Ya man keep up posted n stuff. I bought the PCM of NC tune and there were some things they did in there that I wouldn't have ever have guessed to do to get the big injectors tweaked in, but overall I'm happy for my purchase. They have TONS of TBSS experience and that dyno in house, those timing tables and stuff are the meat and potatoes, i have no issues paying for that lol. besides most of my tuning experience is GEN3 NA, this gen 4 stuff is snazzy. ya buy that sh!t. don't forget to save that tune as a copy BEFORE you convert it to custom OS
 

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2007 Black Trailblazer SS AWD
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Awesome setup ! I just installed Kooks LTs and hopefully ordering the TVS1900 kit soon.
 
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