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Hi. This will be lengthy so thanks for reading. I'll try to be both concise and brief. My OBDII troubleshooting experience is mostly with a 97 LT1 car. Troubleshooting an LS is entirely new to me.

07 TBSS completely stock, 120k on the clock. Daily driver, has run great for most of the 3 years I've owned it.

It started dying in traffic and at random, set a code 1682. Replaced the ignition switch. Problem ended up being the fuse box. It needed control arms and exhaust manifold gaskets/bolts, so I took it down for a week or so while I was doing all of the repairs.

I had to disassemble the air box and plumbing to get working access to the passenger side manifold and bolts. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body while it was all apart. Used CRC MAF&TB cleaner.

Completed repairs of upper & lower control arms, both exhaust manifold gaskets/bolts, fuse box, and replaced plugs/wires while they were off anyway. Delco wires and ACDelco 41-985 plugs, as far as I can tell the closest thing to stock with a superceded part number.

First start after reassembly didn't go well. It barely ran and I got to the end of the drive and back with it. It set codes P0449, U0101, B2AAA, and P0306. I had missed a prong with one of my copper leads, and had to redo my fuse box repair.

Next test drive was great. Ran great for a few days, then it set the P0306 again, and started occasionally hitting hard with the Park-Reverse shift and the 1-2 shift. Just a couple times when cold, then smooths out. Motor runs perfectly. No way it's missing a cylinder.

Switched (over time, individually), the plug, wire, coil, and injector from #6 to #4. No change. Still sets P0306 code intermittently. It may run fine and set no codes for a few days, then have the engine light on for a few days. Hard shifts are also intermittent, but are always only upon cold-ish start. Once you've driven it a mile, it shifts normally in every way. However, there are times that it shifts fine even first cold start for the day.

Out of frustration and guesswork I replaced the fuse box with a new one. Thought maybe it was having an intermittent short again because of my repairs. New fuse box made no difference.

I do not have a scanner that specifically checks for transmission codes, so I do not know if it's setting transmission codes. P0306 is the only code it sets. Sometimes it will soft code for a few days before it turns the engine light on.

Freeze Frame Data from most recent P0306:

Freeze frame report generated by Torque for Android
=========================================================

Vehicle VIN: 666
Vehicle Manufacturer: Chevrolet
Vehicle Calibration ID: 126

Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Level (From Engine ECU) = 53.333 %
Distance travelled since codes cleared = 82.021 miles
Evap System Vapour Pressure = 5.25 Pa
Barometric pressure (from vehicle) = 14.794 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1) = 851 °F
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2,Sensor 1) = 851 °F
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.343 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 24.706 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio(lambda) = 1
Relative Throttle Position = 8.627 %
Ambient air temp = 80.6 °F
Absolute Throttle Position B = 23.529 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 20 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 20 %


End of report.

I'm still daily driving it. I have no idea where to start troubleshooting next, as it's all intermittent. I double checked the TB and MAF plugs, and they appear visually undamaged and tightly connected. I'm sure someone will tell me to do a compression test, but given that it's an intermittent code with no driveability symptoms, I can't imagine it's anything mechanical or that a cold compression test in the garage will catch the random conditions that are setting the code. I'm certainly all ears.

Thanks again for reading.
 

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06&07TrailblazerSS's
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Vehicle vin of 666 is disturbing. I would try an exorcism:) Just kidding. I can't tell you how many times I have had intermittent stuff with my 2 SS's. Down to just one now. I see you did the component cylinder switch. How about a vacuum leak, fuel filter, bad plug. I know for sure often time when cleaning the MAF and throttle body our trucks can misbehave for awhile. Have you gone for along ride yet? Good luck.
 

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My money is on the MAF sensor. Did you put it back in with the air flow in the correct direction? Also is it oriented the same as before - plug in the same position? I would inspect the wire mesh and the small little bubble like sensor on it too. They aren't too expensive to replace - you spend more on the fuse boxes, plugs, wires, etc.
 

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Vehicle vin of 666 is disturbing. I would try an exorcism:) Just kidding. I can't tell you how many times I have had intermittent stuff with my 2 SS's. Down to just one now. I see you did the component cylinder switch. How about a vacuum leak, fuel filter, bad plug. I know for sure often time when cleaning the MAF and throttle body our trucks can misbehave for awhile. Have you gone for along ride yet? Good luck.
An exorcism certainly couldn't hurt.

I swapped the plug to #4 also at some point. No luck there. I've driven it more than 500 miles. Some highway, some joyrides. No luck. I haven't looked for vacuum leaks though or replaced the fuel filter. With 120k it wouldn't hurt to do that anyway. I'll take the ducting apart again this evening and check for vacuum leaks, thanks for the ideas!
 

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My money is on the MAF sensor. Did you put it back in with the air flow in the correct direction? Also is it oriented the same as before - plug in the same position? I would inspect the wire mesh and the small little bubble like sensor on it too. They aren't too expensive to replace - you spend more on the fuse boxes, plugs, wires, etc.
I want to say I got it in there right but I'll take it back apart tonight to inspect and be sure. Is it possible to get it in there wrong? Meaning, isn't its orientation determined by the slots in the ducting? I'll look for some pics before I take it apart so that I can be sure when I put it back together. Thanks for the input, I know it was a long read!
 

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I can't tell you how many times I have had intermittent stuff with my 2 SS's. Down to just one now.
Dude it's like having an ultra hot girlfriend. The joyrides are amazing, looks great sitting in the driveway, nice to have around even for daily driving, but... eventually it's not worth the drama you have to put up with! Easily the most neurotic vehicle I've ever owned. I am probably going to get it all squared away and sell it to replace it with something a lot older like a nice K5 Blazer. Where I live right now I rarely have a chance to drive above 55 just due to traffic and the limited distances I drive.

It's probably 9.5/10 interior, 9.5/10 exterior, and 10/10 drivetrain once the above issues are remedied. I've replaced all the normal wear stuff and it's got new tires. Drives like new again assuming the hard shifts are remedied by whatever is going on with it. It was a soccer mom car before I owned it and I do daily drive it myself but most of the time my work regime requires my old beater truck.
 

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The white 07 I had was a drama queen. I sold it this year it was always something. My 06 is really very good. But like I said for no reason it will act up. Usually after it sits. I have 71 Stingray and 07 Z06 to drive as well. But I need that SS as a daily. I love that completed confused look when I smoke a Mustang, Dodge etc. at a traffic light. I would miss it in the winter as well. Here in Michigan. You really can't much more bang for the buck! Fix it and then think about what would replace the fun!
 

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Oh I forgot I had a 1972 K5 when I was 16. It was good fun. But no a/c. Very few creature comforts. Roof off was fun:) Sold it when I went to college.
 

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The white 07 I had was a drama queen. I sold it this year it was always something. My 06 is really very good. But like I said for no reason it will act up. Usually after it sits. I have 71 Stingray and 07 Z06 to drive as well. But I need that SS as a daily. I love that completed confused look when I smoke a Mustang, Dodge etc. at a traffic light. I would miss it in the winter as well. Here in Michigan. You really can't much more bang for the buck! Fix it and then think about what would replace the fun!
When I bought this SS, I was doing a lot of driving for work so they were paying for my mileage. It was great for that, fun to drive but also comfy for a lot of time spent behind the wheel. That only lasted about 6 months and I got a job working from home. So now most of my driving is the 4 miles from my house to the beach, and there's always traffic so little opportunity to drive spiritedly. We can drive onto the beach here, several miles out away from any development. So we take the old GMC 4x4 beater I built just for the beach. The sand driving is really hard on a vehicle, beats up the suspension, and all that time spent near the salt water rusts them away so it'd be a massive waste of the SS to take it out on the beach very often. That's why I'm thinking an older K5... a lot more practical for the driving I do, cheap and easy to fix, reliable once I've gone through it. I have less than $3,000 in my 90 GMC K1500 and it's essentially a new truck underneath a rusty old body. Motor/trans/suspension/wheels/tires/etc I'd drive it anywhere, it's reliable AF, I never worry about people door dinging it, and its entire purpose is to drive on the beach so I don't worry about the resale value or the rust. it always has an inch of sand in the floorboards and I love it that way!

I'd miss the SS but it's become expensive to maintain and not that practical. I'm in coastal NC so we don't really have winters.
 

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Oh I forgot I had a 1972 K5 when I was 16. It was good fun. But no a/c. Very few creature comforts. Roof off was fun:) Sold it when I went to college.
That's what I'm thinking, a late 70's or early 80's K5. For less than $5k I can make it reliable and even repair an A/C system. Dependable 4x4 beater. Old school. I also still have my 97 LT1 SS Camaro, which is not luxurious by today's standards but on the rare occasion I roadtrip, it's fun and comfortable. Ice cold air, leather, good stereo. Our old GMC had A/C but we've never fixed it because when we go to the beach we have the windows down and plan to swim and get sweaty and enjoy the open air anyway. Just by comparison though maintaining or even rebuilding an older Chevy of any kind is pennies on the dollar compared to maintaining a newer vehicle. Parts for the TBSS start at $300 and skyrocket from there it seems like. The old GMC I can replace a motor for $300!!!
 

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Are you in the Outerbanks, Carolina Beach or other area where it is allowed to drive on the beach in NC?

I'm in Clayton NC.
We live just North of Snow's Cut bridge near Carolina Beach. Carolina Beach, Kure Beach, Fort Fisher, and Baldhead Island make up Pleasure Island. You can drive both ends of the island.

The North End is Freeman Park, and it's in the populated part of the island. The town government there is as full of drama as a 3rd grade girl, so Freeman Park is often over-patrolled for revenue generation and you're likely to be hassled for something no matter how quietly you're enjoying your day. About 2/3 of Freeman Park is currently closed to driving because of legal drama, so to be honest, even though we do get a season pass each year to enjoy the off season (dogs can be off leash in the off season), it's hardly worth the money in the summer. It has frequent closures so you rarely know whether it'll be open on the weekend without actually driving to the gate where you might get turned away in spite of having a paid pass.

The South End of the island is Fort Fisher, and part of the Fort Fisher Rec Area is a 4x4 access beach. It's nearly 5 miles long, and there is literally zero development there as it's state/federal land. No houses, no roads, no snack bar, no bathrooms. It's a state park, so it's patrolled by Park Rangers. No town drama, and as long as you're respectful nobody bothers you and you can get a nice big stretch of beach to yourself most days. It's beautiful. This time of year it closes at dark because of turtle nesting. In the off season, you can go out there 24/7. We also volunteer to sit turtle nests so we are out there during hatching season with the whole place to ourselves. It's beautiful. The South End is significantly softer sand than anywhere else I've ever driven, so it requires a real 4x4 with decent ground clearance and most of the time you'll need to air down. People get stuck out there all the time, and AWD of any kind is almost sure to get stuck. People are friendly out there though so unless you break something, someone will give you a tug and some pointers if you're not used to driving in the soft sand.

I have taken the TBSS out on both ends of the island occasionally, mostly for pictures. It does fine, with its limitation being ground clearance so unless you go really slow it's going to bottom out in the sand and drag the bumpers. It's also hard on the transmission without low-range, so I just wouldn't do it often in a nice vehicle. Our old beach truck is a 90 K1500 GMC Sierra with 35x12.50's on stock suspension. It's more than adequate and we don't even have to air down often. Never had it stuck. It's more about how you drive though. One full throttle blip and you can dig a giant hole in the soft sand. It's all about staying on top of the sand out there, and heavy trucks are just as inept as AWD cars are. Once it sinks, it's sunk. Light throttle is the key, although there are times you need to throttle it up a bit to stay on top of the sand and keep up momentum, yet also not get carried away and dig a hole. It just takes some practice in whatever vehicle you're used to.

There are lots of ORV accesses up and down the coast. I know the OBX has many, North Topsail, and I think maybe even Emerald Isle. Corolla is an entire town without roads, all on the sand. I hope to visit them all eventually.
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Ok I took all the ducting apart and I can't find any vacuum leaks or anything broken. As much as I realize it's dangerous to say you 'can't get it wrong', it looks like all the MAF ducting and connectors have clocking tabs and they all appear to be where the factory wanted them. Certainly nothing is forced. But here are some pics just in case it looks wonky to any of you. I'm not opposed to replacing the MAF but I don't see anything visually wrong with this one. Delphi is about $80 on Amazon and ACDelco is about $125. Any opinions on brands? This is something I'd probably not go with Advance or Autozone store brand stuff but I'm all ears.
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