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Old Jan-07-10, 08:25 PM   #1
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Default Lets Get This Fixed!!! People With Battery Draw Issues Step In Please!!!

Ok folks. I have noticed many of you are having a similar issue as me with your trucks. If you have had a recurring battery draw issue with your truck in which it needs to be jumped, re-charged, or the battery replaced, please post in here. I need a few things from you though:

#1: Year, and if the vehicle was purchased new or used
#2: Options package(include Bose, Sunroof, DVD, Nav, etc.....)
#3: A Detailed explanation of the issue(how many days it takes to die, etc...)
#4: How many times have repairs been attempted(either by GM, Yourself, Or a private shop), and what were the repairs?
#5: How long did you own your truck before the issue started?

Thats all I can think of for now. If I think of more, or you guys think of any addition information, please feel free to add to this. If you would rather email this to me, instead of posting it in here, please let me know, and I will provide you with an email address.

Now, we all know how this forum can get. PLEASE people, keep this thread drama free and useless post free. I would like to take this to GM to attempt to get this issue rectified for all of us at NO CHARGE if possible. This is obviously a problem with these trucks, and I am hoping that not only do the 5 or 6 of you that I have seen having issues post up, but, I am hoping that this opens others eyes and they post here too if they are having a similar issue.

I will start the ball rolling with my truck.

My truck is a 2008 3SS awd. It has every option with the exception of rear DVD and Navigation.
My issue is that my truck will drain a battery to below 10VDC within a period of 24hrs or less. It is now in a GM Service Center for the second time regarding this issue. The first time it went in, the vehicle's battery was replaced, and draw tests were performed. It passed all these tests, and the vehicle was released back to me. Less than 1 week later, it began again. The shop it is at now has had the truck for almost a week, and there are still no developments. I fail to understand where this issue is coming from. It started shortly after my year anniversery of the purchase date. The vehicle did serve as a dealer demo before I purchased it.


Thanks in advance for your help guys. Lets hope we can get GM to do something about this!
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Old Jan-07-10, 08:27 PM   #2
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1. 06
2. Everything but NAV
3. If it sits for ~1 week battery is dead or close to it. Quick charge and start up its fine.
4. 0 I figure I should drive it once a week anyways.
5. Since I bought it from SSmoke
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Old Jan-07-10, 09:20 PM   #3
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I have an 06 2WD SS with all options minus Navi. SS if sits for more than 4-5 days without any crankover it wont start. A jump always resolves this issue, but i feel this is a GM issue and should be considered a major recall on all 06-08 Trailblazers both LT and especially the SS which i own. Its unfortunate you invest your hard earned money into a 25-30k SUV and you cant let it sit for more than a week without firing it up. It makes it difficult for myself as i travel and i cant rely on my Alarm system to do its job if I'm away for more than this time period.
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Old Jan-08-10, 07:32 AM   #4
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My truck is a 2007 3SS AWD, bought with 204miles on it. It has every option with the exception of rear DVD , Navigation was added in Feb of 2009. Prior to that, it had the Bose 6disc.
My issue is that my truck will drain a battery to below starting limits within a period of 48hrs or less.I've done a simple "drawtest" with a mulitimeter set at 200ma, and it reads a .1ma draw when off. It is garaged all of the time, and thusly does not require the alarm to be on. The test was done without the DashHawk being plugged into the OBDII port, as well. The only additional draw that is known would be a VERY minimal draw from the led on a switch for aftermarket exhaust purposes. The problem arose, or became evident, while the vehicle no longer served daily driving duties due to catastrophic engine failure due to engine oiling problems inherent with LS2 engines. It was startable, but made horrendous noises. So, while it was sitting in my garage for 5 months(August 2008-January 2009) before repairs were initiated, I would periodically try and start it. It would only last a few days before needing charging via trickle-charger. After engine repairs were complete, and it was drivable again, it returned to being driven more and thusly had no issues anymore.

During the summer of 2009, trying to resolve OTHER charging issues, I replaced the battery to see if that fixed said problem. It didn't, but I left the new battery in as the OEM had two yrs of use already. So, this battery is being drained after a VERY short amount of use as I now have multiple vehicles sharing driving duties, and the SS isn't driven nearly as much anymore, especially during the winter.

It is on a battery charger as I type this since it wouldn't start for several days prior to this.
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Old Jan-08-10, 07:36 AM   #5
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I've got a question, how many bone stock trucks have the battery die after 1 week??
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Old Jan-08-10, 08:32 AM   #6
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Has any of the trucks which had failed ignition switches replaced had their battery fail on them after the replacement? I know I have posted this before, but I had an '02 Envoy discharge the battery below starting voltage in less than ten hours causing me to replace the battery. When I hooked up the negative cable to the new battery, it arched almost as much as it would had it been the positive cable touching the post. The dealer I took it to could find nothing wrong and suggested that whatever caused the arch may have "fixed itself". In any event The same battery was still in the truck two years later when I traded it in on the SS and I never had ANY issues with starting the truck again.
I still use the original battery at my camp to power radios and it gets charged about three times per year.
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Old Jan-08-10, 08:40 AM   #7
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2008 3ss bought new just about 1 year ago. I have every option except the rear dvd. Completely stock not a single mod (except my floor mats ) Only happened once so far but I let it sit for 4 days over an extended weekend. When i went to start it, it would not turn over. Charged the battery for a few hours and it started right up and has been fine ever since. I have not brought it in for any repairs.
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Old Jan-08-10, 08:45 AM   #8
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To add to mine, the first week of October, it sat from 10/2 all the way to 10/11 (trip to SA) and started right up. So, it's being excarbated by the extreme cold.
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Old Jan-08-10, 08:50 AM   #9
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2007 AWD 3ss, all options minus DVD front/rear.

Same problem. Replaced the battery. Problem fixed. 42,000 Miles no aftermarket stereo. Mine occured after new wheel/tire installation and ever since temps dropped here in Colorado. Down to -12 at one point. It was draining within a 24 hour period (overnight even) at times. New Battery starts everything up great.

I had the old battery tested and stock it was 600ohms, reading 500ohms as tested and therefore a "good" battery. I think not! My guess is that it was only taking a surface charge from the alternator. I tried deep charging it a few times and that seemed to work well for a few days before it would die again.

If you're battery is new and you are still having the problem, it may be a starter problem. If your starter is bad, it might not be getting enough power from the battery to turn over, or it might have a short in it, which is slowly draining the battery.

Battery, Ignition switch, Starter, Alternator

Those would be my order of replacements. After that, lemon law IMO
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Old Jan-08-10, 08:59 AM   #10
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06 AWD with everything but nav. i have owned it for a year and a half. i bought it used with 25000 on it. i have had the battery die on me a couple of times. replace the battery and it just did it yesterday again after sitting for about a 5 days.
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Old Jan-08-10, 09:16 AM   #11
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Had the same problem with my 08 SS. Had the battery replaced under warrenty and put it in my wifes 05 Z71 Tahoe and since she needed a new battery I bought a red top opt. Still died after a few days and unpluged my Dash Hawk and have not had a problem since. It has been over a year and I only have 3200. miles, but it starts perfectly every time. The battery had bad cells, but I think the drain on the battery was the Dash Hawk off but still connected.
Thanks
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Old Jan-08-10, 09:34 AM   #12
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Good posts so far guys. I spoke to the Dealership my truck is at this morning, and I have some good news. I brought up this thread, and he said there are SEVERAL bulletins regarding this already in place. You guys MAY want to look into that.

Please though guys, continue to post up your issues. I still plan on bringing this to GM's attention, and maybe we can get more done than just some TSBs. Also, If someone has access to AllData, could you possibly post up the bulletins regarding draw issues?

As of right now, they have fixed issues with my HVAC, ONSTAR, and something with my BCM, and they are still getting too much draw for the specs. The draw HAS been decreasing, but there is still more to be done. Its looks like they can't just point this at one thing.

We are well on our way guys. 6+ replys in less than 24hrs is WAY too many imo for this to be ignored, and I am certain there are more that still have yet to step forward, or to see this thread. Keep it up guys, and thanks again!
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Old Jan-08-10, 09:39 AM   #13
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How many of you are still using a Delco battery? Maybe that's the problem.

06 SS bought it new.
Nav, roof, no dvd.
Dashhawk has been plugged in since 2007 before & after battery issues.
Stock battery would drain after about 2 days of sitting.
Repalced battery with Napa unit maybe a year ago? Didn't bother with the dealer.
No problems now.
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Old Jan-08-10, 09:39 AM   #14
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I work at a dealer not to be named, we have had several non tbss with draws and they were very intermittan, they would go for weeks at a time ok and out of the blue the would be dead overnight. they all had a bad lift gate module that would turn on when ever it wanted. drawing .5amps thus killing the battery. maybe that will help you? try pulling the fuse to the lift gate module, if the battery still charged after a few days that was it. some things wont work when the fuse is out but you will be able to see if that is the problem.
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Old Jan-08-10, 09:51 AM   #15
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My personal opinion is that it's just a GM POS, i use to work at a caddy dealer and every time we sold a BRAND NEW car that had sat for about two weeks it was dead and would need a jump. It was a special pain in the ass with the STS models wich required getting the actual key out of the safe because the door wouldn't open with just the FOB in you pocket.
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Old Jan-08-10, 10:05 AM   #16
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1: 2008, purchased new with 33 miles on it
2: 3SS with Everything (NAV,sunroof, bose) but no rear entertainment
3. It will be dead if it sits for more than 10 days without starting it
4. No repairs have been attempted. Battery tests good.
5. Issues have always been present since the day i bought it (march 08)

To resolve this issue I bought the Battery Tender and i just keep it hooked up when it is gonna sit for more than a day or two. Not a problem since.
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Old Jan-08-10, 10:14 AM   #17
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This is not DELCO battery issue ive tried 3 diff types of batteries and now have yellow top but even that with ss sitting for 3-4 days kills SS!
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Old Jan-08-10, 10:22 AM   #18
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#1: 06, 2wd, LT
#2: Everything but nav and rear dvd
#3: If it sits for a week or more, it needs a jump
#4: Never attempted to rectify the situation
#5: I've owned it since new. Never noticed it until I bought a daily driver and let the SS sit for extended periods
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Old Jan-08-10, 10:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWork View Post
Also, If someone has access to AllData, could you possibly post up the bulletins regarding draw issues?
I went through the 06 - 09 models, these are the only ones that I found.

Quote:
Bulletin No.: 02-06-04-015A

Date: March 07, 2006

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Intermittent No Crank, No Start (Clean Battery Side Terminal Stripped Threads, Replace Battery Cable Bolt)

Models:
2001-2007 GM Passenger Cars and Light-Duty Trucks (Including Saturn)
2003-2007 HUMMER H2
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

with Side-Mounted Battery Terminals

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to update the models and provide a new labor operation number for this repair. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Numbers 02-06-04-015 and 03-06-03-006A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

Some customers may comment on an intermittent no crank, no start condition.

Cause

This condition may be due to poor battery cable connections. Cross-threaded/stripped battery cable bolts inside the battery side post terminals may cause poor battery cable connections.

Correction

To avoid replacing the battery , do the following steps:
^ Clean the threads in the battery side post terminals using a 3/8" (# 16) NC bottom tap.

^ Replace the battery cable bolt.

The battery cable bolt is serviced separately from the cable and is available from your Parts Department. Be sure to use the correct bolt.
Quote:
TECHNICAL

Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-003B

Date: June 15, 2009

Subject: Vehicle Will Not Start, Dead Battery (Inspect for Parasitic Draw)
Models:
2008 Chevrolet Colorado, TrailBlazer Models
2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy Models
2008 HUMMER H3 without Navigation Radio (RPO UM8)
2008 Saab 9-7X
All Equipped with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to correct the specification in Step 10.2. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-003A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

Some customers may comment that the vehicle will not start due to a dead battery.

Cause

This concern may be due to a parasitic draw from one of the electronic modules, which does not enter low power mode (does not go to "sleep"). The draw remains present after the ignition key is cycled to the OFF position. The next ignition cycle may cause the module to reset.

Correction
1. Verify the customer's concern.

Note
Depending on the magnitude of the parasitic draw, a no start condition could occur on a vehicle with a fully charged battery after it has been parked for a period of less than 48 hours.

2. Inspect the battery. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test in SI. If the battery passes the test, proceed to step 3.

Note
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical conditions. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on accessories are not the cause of the condition.

3. Inspect for aftermarket accessories. Refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in SI.
4. Colorado, TrailBlazer, Canyon and Envoy models equipped with AM/FM stereo and CD/MP3 player (RPO US8) only - Refer to GM VIS to see if Customer Satisfaction bulletin 08134 applies. If the vehicle is involved and the bulletin has not been performed, reprogram the radio following the steps in Customer Satisfaction bulletin 08134.
5. Check for current/history DTCs. Document and clear all DTCs.

Note
When troubleshooting for parasitic draws, be sure to connect the digital multimeter in parallel with the Parasitic Draw Test Switch (J 38758) and turn it ON before beginning the test. Failure to do so could cause any module potentially causing a draw to reset.

6. Install a Parasitic Draw Test Switch (J 38758) and a digital multimeter. Refer to Battery Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load Test in SI.

Important
The test switch on the J 38758 is marked ON and OFF. When the test switch is in the ON position, the circuit is closed and electrical current will pass through the switch. When the test switch is in the OFF position, the circuit is open and electrical current will not pass through the switch.

7. Verify that the Test Switch (J 38758) is OFF and start the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle while in Park for no more than 2 minutes. Turn on all features and accessories. Cycle through all radio bands, including XM if equipped, and any other available radio features. Attempt, but do not complete, an OnStar(R) call. Cycle the HVAC modes, power seats and interior lights. Except for high load features (headlamps, heated seats and dome lights), leave the accessories on.
8. Quickly and in sequence, turn the ignition off, remove the key from the ignition, open the driver's door, exit the vehicle and close the door. Complete these steps in less than 15 seconds. DO NOT reopen the front doors or initiate any Class 2 communication (i.e. RKE lock/unlock) as this could reset any module potentially causing a draw.
9. Wait at least 30 seconds after completing Step 8. Turn the Test Switch (J 38758) ON. With a normal vehicle electrical draw less than or equal to 15 mA, the BCM should be in "sleep" mode after 15-20 minutes.
10. Repeat steps 7 through 9. If, after 20 minutes, there is a parasitic draw detected, perform one of the following:

Note
Fully charge the battery prior to any programming event.

1. For a 350 mA - 400 mA draw with Current/History DTC U1301 present.

- Remove the OnStar(R) Vehicle Communications Interface Module (VCIM) fuse.
- If the parasitic draw drops to 15 mA or less, reprogram the VCIM. Refer to Communication Interface Module Programming and Setup in SI.

2. For a 350 mA - 400 mA draw with NO Current/History DTC U1301 present.

- Remove the OnStar(R) Vehicle Communications Interface Module (VCIM) fuse.
- If the parasitic draw drops to 15 mA or less, contact GM OnStar Technical Assistance for help in obtaining a replacement part. For VCIM removal and installation procedures, refer to Communication Interface Module Replacement in SI. These modules are on a parts restriction program and CANNOT be ordered directly from the ESC. Dealers are calling the ESC for a replacement part and are being denied the part without technical assistance intervention and this occurring as a result of the parts restriction.

3. For a 200 mA - 1400 mA draw on vehicles equipped with XM radio (RPO U2K).

- Remove the Radio fuse.
- If the parasitic draw drops to 15 mA or less, repeat the test with the fuse re-installed and the XM Module disconnected.
- If the draw follows the XM Module and the vehicle was built prior to February 4, 2008, replace the XM Module with GM P/N 15269740 through a GM authorized Electronic Service Center only. Refer to Bulletin GMP09-043 Updated Warranty & Goodwill Exchange for Electronic Products. For XM Module removal and installation procedures, refer to Digital Radio Receiver Replacement in SI.

11. For Colorado, Canyon and H3 models only - If the customer's habit is to turn the ignition key on and off very quickly, the Regulated Voltage Control Module may stay "awake" waiting for an ECM message to shut it down.

- To verify this, turn the ignition from OFF to ON to OFF in less than 5 seconds. An oscilloscope will show a 100 mA - 400 mA fluctuating parasitic draw. The digital multimeter in auto range mode may show a 100 mA - 230 mA consistent draw.
- If the parasitic draw can be identified through this test, reprogram the ECM.

12. Verify that the vehicle is repaired.
This might help the DIY guys chasing draw:

Quote:
Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-007B

Date: November 05, 2007

INFORMATION
Subject:
Automatic Dual Zone HVAC Battery Draw

Models:
2004-2007 Buick Rainier
2003-2008 Cadillac Escalade Models
2002-2008 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
2003-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2008 GMC Envoy Models
2003-2008 GMC Sierra, Yukon Models
2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
2003-2008 HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-007A (Section 01 - HVAC).

When diagnosing battery draws on trucks equipped with the automatic dual zone HVAC controls (RPO CJ2), technicians should keep in mind that the control head does not completely "go to sleep" until after 150-250 minutes, or up to 4-1/4 hours, from when the ignition key is turned OFF. This is a normal condition. In these cases, DO NOT replace the control head.
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Old Jan-08-10, 01:20 PM   #20
Drumguy999
 
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Real Name: Cheston
Member # 433
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Location: Wichita KS
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#1: 2006 Purchased 2.5 years ago with 11k miles
#2: I have Nav, sunroof, Rear DVD, etc.
#3 & #4: Never seemed to have the problem for the first few years. Replaced the stock battery about a year ago with a bigger interstate. even had a system in the truck. No issues. I DID replace my ignition switch a few months back, coincidentally, thats when i remember these issues appearing. Truck would die if not driven every other day. Had the battery charged a few weeks ago, it did test good. I haven't had an issue yet, but I've driven it daily since....

I do want to note however, that I've had a low voltage issue for the past several months, and I honestly think my alternator is failing, which could be the root cause of all of this.

On a side note, not sure if this is related, but my key fob wont work unless I'm basically standing next to the rear drivers door. Sometimes it'll work like 6-8 feet away though. The battery in the fob is fresh, so i have no idea whats up. Bad key fob?

#5: Truck seemed fine for the first two years or so, stock and new battery could both sit for a few weeks no problem.
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