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Old Jul-28-10, 01:31 PM   #61
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So I take it you decided against a cam and are just replacing bolts and chain?
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Old Jul-28-10, 01:48 PM   #62
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Good job Mark!
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Old Jul-28-10, 01:51 PM   #63
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So I take it you decided against a cam and are just replacing bolts and chain?
he still plans on changing out the cam but wanted to fix his problem first...
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Old Jul-28-10, 01:56 PM   #64
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Lets just say that if the same thing happened to Marks truck here as what happened to the last one I did where the bolts backed out, he'll need a cam and lifters too.

This is why I'm interested in seeing how far the cam sticks out of the block when the cam gear is removed. Are there marks on the inside of the timing cover from the cam sprocket bolts contacting it?
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:10 PM   #65
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Lets just say that if the same thing happened to Marks truck here as what happened to the last one I did where the bolts backed out, he'll need a cam and lifters too.

This is why I'm interested in seeing how far the cam sticks out of the block when the cam gear is removed. Are there marks on the inside of the timing cover from the cam sprocket bolts contacting it?
I'm uploading the pics to photobucket right now. It's taking a long time. But the cam doesnt seem to be sticking out abnormally. There are no marks on the timing cover.
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:11 PM   #66
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So I take it you decided against a cam and are just replacing bolts and chain?
I'm still doing the cam. I just wanted to fix this problem for sure first.
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:16 PM   #67
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Lets just say that if the same thing happened to Marks truck here as what happened to the last one I did where the bolts backed out, he'll need a cam and lifters too.

This is why I'm interested in seeing how far the cam sticks out of the block when the cam gear is removed. Are there marks on the inside of the timing cover from the cam sprocket bolts contacting it?




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Old Jul-28-10, 02:17 PM   #68
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With the timing cover off, rotate the crankshaft until the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is in the 12 o clock position and the camshaft gear is in the 6 o clock position. I then stuck a flathead screwdriver in the flywheel to keep the crankshaft from rotating. Notice the timing marks lined up.



The timing marks are circled in red here. The timing chain gear (sprocket) is on top and the crankshaft gear (sprocket) is on the bottom.
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:26 PM   #69
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Mark I was trying to see how far the snout of the cam stuck out of the thust plate. I can't see this in the pics.

The reason why that is when the cam bolts come loose, the cam will want to walk to the rear of the block. If the cam had been operating shifted towards the rear of the block for a long enough time, the lifters will no longer be centered on the cam lobes and instead riding on the forward edge of the cam lobe causing an abormal wear pattern on the lifters and the cam lobes themselves. The side of the cam lobbes will produce small shards of metal which may be lodged in between the roller lifter and the cam and pit the roller wheel on the end of the lifter.

The last one I did, the cam was pushed in very far, barely sticking out of the end of the thrust plate and had one of the lifter lock up on my afterwards on initial startup.

The cam should have been sticking out of the thrust plate at least 1/8 inch or so.

When you installed the cam gear and tightened the bolts, did you feel resistance before the bolts were fully tight, as if the cam gear and bolts were pulling the cam back to the front of the block?
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:31 PM   #70
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After the flywheel has been locked down and the timing marks are lined up. You can remove the cam bolts.







Now you can remove the camshaft sprocket and timing chain.





Camshaft sprocket and timing chain removed.



Now you can remove the timing chain dampener with a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:34 PM   #71
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Look at the slop in that chain! I'd say it was both the bolts backing out making the chain wear more, but that puppy looks stretched to me.
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:37 PM   #72
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By the witness marks on the snout of the crank, that UD pulley has been slipping on there a bit.
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Old Jul-28-10, 02:37 PM   #73
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Mark I was trying to see how far the snout of the cam stuck out of the thust plate. I can't see this in the pics.

The reason why is that when the cam bolts come loose, the cam will want to walk to the rear of the block. If the cam had been operating shifted towards the rear of the block for a long enough time, the lifters will no longer be centered on the cam lobes and have an abormal wear pattern on the lifters and the cam lobes themselves.

The cam should have been sticking out of the thrust plate at least 1/8 inch or so.

When you installed the cam gear and tightened the bolts, did you feel resistance before the bolts were fully tight, as if the cam gear and bolts were pulling the cam back to the front of the block?


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Old Jul-28-10, 02:41 PM   #74
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Installed a new dampener and torqued it to 18 ft lbs. 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive torque wrench.



Got the new timing chain on the cam gear sprocket. Be sure to make sure the timing marks line back up when you install the new timing chain and cam sprocket. Do not turn the crankshaft. You can rotate the camshaft if need be.



New cam bolts by ARP. 10mm bolts.



Apply loctite to the threads of all 3 cam bolts.



Insert them into the cam gear. Tighten down, don't torque them down yet.



Get your 10mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench set to 26 ft lbs. Torque them down. I read somewhere else to torque them to 18 ft lbs. But Jay's procedures told me to torque them down to 26 ft lbs.
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Old Jul-28-10, 03:35 PM   #75
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While the old chain does have some stretch, I've seen a lot worse. At least it wasn't able to come off without removing the gear.
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Old Jul-28-10, 03:37 PM   #76
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Click to play.
Thank you Alvin, you where right! Aren't you glad you stopped driving it?


BTW>. Be sure to replace your oil pump pickup seal.
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Old Jul-28-10, 03:42 PM   #77
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Thank you Alvin, you where right! Aren't you glad you stopped driving it?


BTW>. Be sure to replace your oil pump pickup seal.
Thx Alvin
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Old Jul-28-10, 05:48 PM   #78
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I ended up having to drop the pan to install the oil tube to the oil pump. I'm kind of tired of taking pictures. But I'll do my best to walk everyone back through. Installation of everything is opposite of removal with the exception of new gaskets and torque specifications.
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Old Jul-28-10, 06:20 PM   #79
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Required Parts



Mobil 1 filter, part # M1-107
Mobil 2 5w30 synthetic oil (6) Quarts
(Advance Auto Parts has a deal right now, 5 quarts and a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99)

I will also be needing some cooling to replace the coolant I will be draining out, I will most likely just use distilled water for now since the outside temps aren't anywhere near freezing.
just an update...i had to buy oil filter today for my truck

AC Delco filters
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Old Jul-28-10, 06:31 PM   #80
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Mark I know you are replacing the chain but sounds like you where undecided when you started.

I personally would not use an impact on the pulley or cam as I think it is hard on the chain. Doesn't matter since you are changing it.

But thats a place I would keep impact away from.
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