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DIC functionality without a steering wheel swap (WITH factory DIC buttons)

17K views 47 replies 21 participants last post by  iceman552 
#1 · (Edited)
*DISCLAIMER -- NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR LACK OF COMMON SENSE*

Things you're going to need

Factory DIC switch -- P/N15947841


DIC switch harness
P/N -- 88988747 (AC Delco PT2128)


Factory trim piece from a model that utilizes said switch. I got one from 07-xx silverado.


Harness pins and proper crimping tool.
Cluster pin -- P/N 12146447
Steering column pins -- P/N 12047767 & 12047581 (these are optional, you'll see shortly)
Crimping tool -- WHPT-11 - Delphi Packard Five-Cavity Wide-Range Crimper


Plastic Epoxy


Jumper wires for breadboard (Radio shack, in the back) and misc soldering items


I decided the best place for the switch was in the console, so I proceeded to remove the console and all the dash pieces necessary to gain access to the gauge cluster harness. Once you've done that, you're ready to start the wiring. First let me state that it is not necessary to run your wiring through the steering column harness, I just did because :dunno:

First thing I did was make a 4 wire harness that runs from the gauge cluster harness to the back of the steering column harness. You'll crimp the appropriate terminals on each end. Terminal 12146447 on the cluster end and terminal 12047581 on the other.

This shows the cluster end


I used a long magnet to help route the wires
*comes out next to the gas pedal


*comes out next to the factory cluster harness


*Factory harness before I got a hold of it.


*There is a blue terminal retainer that you will need to remove.



*The new wires are going in the empty 4 holes on the bottom right.


*After the wires are installed
A8 - Fuel
A9 - switch
A10 - toggle
A11 - set/reset


If you're interested in the steering column part let me know I'll post up some pics on it, but since most people will skip this part I'm going to save some time and skip ahead to the switch.

In short the switch from the factory will not work. Well, the trip button will, but that is it. It needs "modified" to say the least. This is where the jumper wires from radio shack come in handy.

First you'll need to start by removing these things.


They, yes they, are located here. They have already been removed in these pictures





Next you'll need to tie the ground side of the buttons together with one of the jumper wires.


Then you tie the other side of each button to one of the terminals in the center of the board.
*Finished product. If you don't patience, and not a stickler for detail, this probably isn't for you. Things are pretty tight on the board and in the enclosure.


My little mad scientist set up


Here is why you need the "other" trim piece. You need the mounting bracket on the backside.





This seemed to be the logical place to mount the switch using the plastic epoxy.





Installed and working flawlessly...


Oh, I forgot to mention. The switches have LED back lighting...:cool:



I'm sure I've skipped something, so if you need some clarification just let me know and I'll try to remember and see if I have a pic or two.

Enjoy. :cheers1:
 
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#15 ·
I like it too. 1. I don't like a cluttered steering wheel 2. It uses factory buttons. 3. You hand naturally falls from the shifter to the button locations. As long as you're not afraid to open up a brand new part and have half way descent soldering skills it is not that bad of an operation.
 
#35 ·
all you need to do is ground out wires to switch thru menus. i did this mod but used steering wheel and also got radio controls to work.
 
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