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Old Apr-06-10, 05:16 AM   #1
 
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So Im on
so im on the highway right now and a few minutes ago the check guages light comes on and the temp guage reads one hundred. so i pull over and shut it off and cycle the key to see if i can get a response. nothing. so i pop the hood anr makesure everything is fine. no problems. except now the truck just cranks without firing. so i unhooked the neg on the battery. For a few minutes and then it fired ul and reads temp again.

Ideas?
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Old Apr-11-10, 08:57 PM   #2
 
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Did it again today. The temp guage reads 100*, wont respond after turning the key off and then on. The truck cranks and cranks, you have to give it quite a bit of gas to get some air in the motor.......its just dumping fuel. Black smoke out of the exhaust because its so much. Disconnect the coolant temp sensor, no change, reconnect it, no change.....disconnect the battery, reconnect.....truck fires right up. Disconnect temp sensor again, truck dumps shit ton of fuel giving same symptoms but without the check guages light, and the sensor stays at 100*

basically the truck is trying to cold start itself because it thinks the block is ice cold. Might also be an explanation of my recent loss in MPG. But, the temp sensor still works as soon as you reset the ecm.....so im confused as to whats going on.
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Old Apr-12-10, 03:41 AM   #3
 
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It could be your 160 thermostat, if the car doesn't reach a certain temp fast enough it will set the ck engine light and then make the gauge not read. I think sometimes you have to adjust your tune for this problem.
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Old Apr-12-10, 07:45 PM   #4
 
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Ill have to mess with that. It doesnt throw a check engine light though, and you think I would have had problems all winter....not just now that its getting warm out....you would think it would be running warmer now.
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Old Feb-26-17, 02:37 PM   #5

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Lightbulb Did you get this figured out???

So was the Tune & 160F thermostat the issue, I have had this same problem just recently....it doesnt seem to be a tune issue, as this is very sporactic & happened before I had a PCMofNC tune & 160F stat!
I havent replaced Coolant Temp Sensor, nor have I traced wires for connectiin issue! It is makin it so my "AUTO" HVAC heat does not blow, because it thinks it is too cold! I also have the "mash gas pedal" to start when this happens!! She is definately fuelly smelling and idles high @ 1200 RPMs when it does happen!!
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Old Apr-17-17, 04:00 PM   #6
 
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+1 on this issue. Overnight, the AC quit working, the temp gauge read 100*, and the "check gauges" light came on. Then this morning, it would start, Just spit and sputtered and died. This afternoon, when I had more time to fool with it, it did everything that 98onyxss' did, with the running rich, smoking, flooring it to get it to stay running. I'm going to change the coolant temp sensor and see what that does.

PS...I have PCM cam, CAI, and LS7 MAF, and a custom tune and LS1 E-fans, but with the stock thermostat.
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Old Apr-17-17, 04:51 PM   #7

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Check your manifold air temperature sensor

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Old Apr-17-17, 06:58 PM   #8
 
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I changed the coolant temp sensor, since that was my first guess, which got it to actually crank, after a little hesitation, and idle without any "motivation." But the 'Check Gauges' light was still on, prompting me to disconnect/reconnect the battery, which got the light to go off. The problem is, I've read that that alone has sometimes fixed the problem...but only for a day or two. So I guess we'll see in a day or two.

TO BE CONTINUED...
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Old Apr-17-17, 07:38 PM   #9
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I just came in from changing my temp sensor.

It had a problem starting, or would start then die immediately. The gauge was all over the place, when it read correctly it ran fine.

Started it up and the gauge reads correctly now, hopefully it fixed the problem.

I'll know tomorrow morning.
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Old Apr-18-17, 09:23 AM   #10
 
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Well, mine started this morning, again with some hesitation. But the 'Check Gauges' light was on again, and it didn't appear that the temp gauge was budging after running for a few mins. I've already got the Tstat, so I guess I'll change that this evening.

I also forgot to mention that I've got the 3-relay kit from Nelson Performance for the LS1 fans. I've read that there could be some issue with that also. Any clues as to what I would be looking for issues with that harness?

What is the issue these have with the automatic AC controls, and what would that have to do with how the engine is running?

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Check your manifold air temperature sensor
Where would this be located, and how do I go about checking it? Just replacing it?
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Old Apr-18-17, 01:24 PM   #11

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If you have a scanner see what the MAT is reading, if your truck is cold and hasn't been run it should at least be whatever the ambient temperature is, and if it's reading low that's your problem the engine thinks it's freezing out and pouring fuel to it to warm it up

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Old Apr-18-17, 01:56 PM   #12
 
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I don't have a scanner. Would one of the ones Advance or Autozone has read that, or are those just code readers?

It's just weird that simply changing the coolant temperature sensor got it to run, albeit like crap, but that's all it fixed. The AC controller, that stupid sensor on the B pillar, or the gauge cluster wouldn't have anything to do with this, right? Seems like a stupid question, but I wouldn't be surprised seeing as how engineers are involved.
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Old Apr-18-17, 02:27 PM   #13

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What's your a/c doing? Is it blowing and just not cold or is it not blowing? If it's blowing and hot look to see if your compressor is engaged

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Old Apr-19-17, 07:58 AM   #14
 
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I changed the air temp sensor in front of the radiator, disconnected the battery, and checked all the connections and repinned wires for the E-fan harness. Everything appeared to be secure, so I reconnected the battery. It again started with a little hesitation, but idled fine, AC was cool, no light, etc.. But alas, the light was on again this morning and it was hard to start/keep running.

It seems that I'm running out of parts to change. I've got a thermostat, but I was holding off on that for two reasons: 1) It's $48, and 2) The light is on as soon as you start it, which wouldn't seem to have ANYTHING to do with a thermostat that doesn't open up until 195*.

My tuner suggested that the gauge cluster may have some role in this. But are the gauges not just merely displaying what input it gets from the sensors/ECM?

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What's your a/c doing? Is it blowing and just not cold or is it not blowing? If it's blowing and hot look to see if your compressor is engaged
It's blowing, just not cold, when the 'check gauges' light is on. It still cycles erratically, and for very short bursts. Like it comes on, and i can feel the condenser juuust start to cool off, then it shuts off and it gets hot again. After I've cleared the code (disconnected the battery) after each part change, the air blows cold and it runs/idles fine.
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Old Apr-19-17, 08:03 AM   #15

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Your a/c is not cooling because your fans are not working and the head pressure is getting to high, once you get your fans working properly your a/c will work, with all the problems your having it could be your fuse box under the hood

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Old Apr-19-17, 08:06 AM   #16
 
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Quote:
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Your a/c is not cooling because your fans are not working and the head pressure is getting to high, once you get your fans working properly your a/c will work, with all the problems your having it could be your fuse box under the hood
Like the entire fuse block needs to be changed, or could it just be one or two connections on that block that screws with the fans (i.e. fan connections, fuse, relay, etc.)? If that's the case, why do all of the problems go away, albeit temporarily, with a simple battery disconnect?
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Old Apr-19-17, 08:10 AM   #17

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The entire block, you can remove it and check for corrosion and solider the bad traces, search for fuse box you'll find threads about them

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Old Apr-19-17, 11:16 AM   #18
 
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Not sure if this is relevant or not but my temperature sensor went "dead" a few times after it rained then simply reset itself once everything dried out. Mine went down to zero (not 100) and had no noticeable effects on the engine. I'm assuming there is a sensor down near the bottom that is getting splashed and shorting out temporarily.

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Old Apr-19-17, 11:59 AM   #19
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For what its worth the new temp sensor completely cured my starting problem.

And the tech at the dealer said it couldn't possibly be the temp sensor causing the problem.
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Old Apr-19-17, 03:32 PM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMax View Post
Not sure if this is relevant or not but my temperature sensor went "dead" a few times after it rained then simply reset itself once everything dried out. Mine went down to zero (not 100) and had no noticeable effects on the engine. I'm assuming there is a sensor down near the bottom that is getting splashed and shorting out temporarily.
There isn't a zero on our gauges, at least not mine; it starts at 100. Do we have more than one coolant temperature sensor? Mine was working fine until I got in it one afternoon, after it had been sitting for about 18-20 hours. It hasn't rained any significant amount in a week or two prior to that day.

I just had it scanned, and the only active code is P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range / Performance.
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