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Old Apr-19-17, 05:20 PM   #21

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Only one sender for water temperature, it wouldn't be running ruff at start up even if it was bad once it warms up and the ecm thinks it's still cold it would pour fuel to it causing it to run ruff and hard starts after it's warm, check your fuse box it's going to be your problem I think, did you get your fans working?

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Old Apr-20-17, 06:27 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bushwacker View Post
Only one sender for water temperature, it wouldn't be running ruff at start up even if it was bad once it warms up and the ecm thinks it's still cold it would pour fuel to it causing it to run ruff and hard starts after it's warm, check your fuse box it's going to be your problem I think, did you get your fans working?

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I just ordered my tune from Kelly at PCM of NC and I asked about my starting problem. It did it warm or cold. And he said yes, the computer will dump extra fuel in warm or cold if it thinks the temp was -37 like mine was reading.

My problem is fixed after just changing the temp sensor.
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Old Apr-20-17, 06:52 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Bushwacker View Post
Only one sender for water temperature, it wouldn't be running ruff at start up even if it was bad once it warms up and the ecm thinks it's still cold it would pour fuel to it causing it to run ruff and hard starts after it's warm, check your fuse box it's going to be your problem I think, did you get your fans working?
No, I haven't gotten the fans working, I assume because it still thinks it's colder than it actually is. I'm going to recheck all the wiring and grounds in that area, and then check the fuse block. What exactly am I looking for there? I assume there wouldn't be a single fuse or relay causing all this?

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I just ordered my tune from Kelly at PCM of NC and I asked about my starting problem. It did it warm or cold. And he said yes, the computer will dump extra fuel in warm or cold if it thinks the temp was -37 like mine was reading.

My problem is fixed after just changing the temp sensor.
My ECT sensor, nor the AAT sensor, change didn't resolve anything. Only clearing the code did, temporarily. I wonder if that might not be the easiest solution, just disabling the P0116 code? I don't live in Siberia, so what could that hurt?
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Old Apr-20-17, 08:55 AM   #24

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To check your fans just take the signal wire's that are pinned in the ecm lose and ground the wires they should come on if not you have a electrical problem, when you turn on your a/c the fan should come on regardless of the engine temperature

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Old Apr-20-17, 12:20 PM   #25
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Not sure if this is relevant or not but my temperature sensor went "dead" a few times after it rained then simply reset itself once everything dried out. Mine went down to zero (not 100) and had no noticeable effects on the engine. I'm assuming there is a sensor down near the bottom that is getting splashed and shorting out temporarily.
the coolant temp sensor is in the drivers side cylinder head in the front above the spark plug.
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Old Apr-20-17, 02:39 PM   #26
 
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To check your fans just take the signal wire's that are pinned in the ecm lose and ground the wires they should come on if not you have a electrical problem, when you turn on your a/c the fan should come on regardless of the engine temperature
The snowflake is on on the HVAC controller, but the compressor won't kick on, I assume due to the P0116 code. The fan blows high, like it thinks it's actually blowing cold air, but it's not. If I clear the code, the compressor comes on and the fans run.

Either way, if the coolant temp is actually around the same as the ambient temp, it shouldn't matter if the fans are on, and therefore, shouldn't throw the code. But that's logical, and I think we all know that logic does not always apply to GM vehicles.

Where would the grounds be that would apply here? I know it sounds like I don't believe you about the fuse block, I'm just trying to save that for last, since it seems like it might be a pain to pull off.
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Old Apr-20-17, 04:39 PM   #27

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Take the two wires lose from the ecm that goes to your fan relays and ground them both your engine fans should run on high if not you have a electrical problem, gm uses the grounds for the signal or turn on's , I'm not talking about your hvac fans I'm telling you how to check your engine temperature fans

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Old Apr-21-17, 07:51 AM   #28
 
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Take the two wires lose from the ecm that goes to your fan relays and ground them both your engine fans should run on high if not you have a electrical problem, gm uses the grounds for the signal or turn on's , I'm not talking about your hvac fans I'm telling you how to check your engine temperature fans
I know you weren't talking about the HVAC fan, I was just commenting that it's weird that it blows on high, like it thinks it's cooling it off by blowing hot air.

How will testing the E-fans confirm anything? I'm looking at them just like the temp gauge, as being just the end of the line for the data being sent by the sensors. If it's hot, the ECT sensor sends a signal to the ECM, which sends a signal to the E-fans to come on. But since that code apparently means the ECM thinks it's super cold, it disables all that, essentially telling you it's too cold to be driving. My understanding of how that process works may be incorrect, so I'm just trying to understand it better. Either way, thanks for helping with the diagnosis.

If they do or don't come on after grounding them, what's the next step?
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Old Apr-21-17, 11:32 AM   #29

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When you turn on your a/c one fan should come on regardless of engine temperature! And being your a/c isn't working right I assume the fan isn't coming on. So by checking the fans will tell me if you have a electrical problem or other issues

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Old Apr-22-17, 01:25 PM   #30
 
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When you turn on your a/c one fan should come on regardless of engine temperature! And being your a/c isn't working right I assume the fan isn't coming on. So by checking the fans will tell me if you have a electrical problem or other issues
Just checked the fans, they're fine. They aren't coming on when the code is active because the computer is telling them not to because it thinks it's too cold, which is the same reason the AC won't blow cold. I also got as good of a look at the bottom of the fuse block as I could without completely disconnecting all of the wires. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion, that I could see.
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Old May-26-17, 05:49 AM   #31
 
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Bought and installed a fuse block...no change. Still doing everything it was doing before.
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Old May-26-17, 10:42 AM   #32
 
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Did you change the coolant temp sensor?


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Old May-26-17, 10:45 AM   #33
 
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Whoops. Just read back into the thread and see you changed temp sensor already.


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Old May-30-17, 10:27 AM   #34
 
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Yeah, I don't know what to do now...
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