What about this CAM???

[NJSS]

I am trying to figure out the Head/Cam upgrade and wonder what the in-house experts think of this idea. I plan on p&p the stock heads, and am curious about this cam here is the specs 214/220 .559/.564 111.5 LSA. How do you think this would idle and perform. Of course I will have all bolt-ons and headers. Not sure on what size stall as of now. Thanks for your help.

[Blindmelon]

Not sure about idle but it will sure like a shot of nitrous. May idle a little rough but with the correct stall it will pull from the bottom up.

[cakiki]

how about this one 298/308 .593/.610 114 lsa with ported l92

[NJSS]

Well it is supposed to be a torque cam, and I auctually want something with some chop to it but I want it to perform well. What size stall would suggest with something like that. I had thought about a 3000-32000 or so. I think it will have some thop to it with the 111.5 LSA and I had thought about a 100-125 shot on top of that. but that would be later down the road.

[MKEngineer]

I am trying to figure out the Head/Cam upgrade and wonder what the in-house experts think of this idea. I plan on p&p the stock heads, and am curious about this cam here is the specs 214/220 .559/.564 111.5 LSA. How do you think this would idle and perform. Of course I will have all bolt-ons and headers. Not sure on what size stall as of now. Thanks for your help.



Would work fine on the stock stall. Looks like XE lobes. -6 overlap would still idle fairly well, just a subtle shake. On stock manifolds and cats + catback the change in exhaust note will be minor, but noticable. With headers an untrained ear will easily be able to pick up the slight lope....or at least the untrained ear will know something has changed how the exhaust sounds. It would have a pretty good gain in tq in midrange, but top-end would not be the greatest. IMHO it will run out of steam above ~6000rpm.

[NJSS]

I wish there was a way to hear this cam before putting it in. Anyone have any suggestions on another grind that will perform really well, and have some lope to it? Appearently tha cam above picked up around 50HP and 40 or so torque with a set of headers on stock heads.

[Saladbar]

I'm running a 224/230 and i'm happy with it. It has a noticable chop on start up, but smooths out quickly. Still has a slight chop at idle, but then again my idle is set at 900 rpms

[Balistikss]

thats the speed inc si-torque cam isnt it? Why not call them and ask them what gains they have seen with it? (on the dyno, and 1/4 mile) Just a thought. I was actually looking at a 214/220 .600/.523 115+2 before. Maybe something else to consider?

[NJSS]

Yes that is the cam.Well I know what they said it mad, I am more or less wondering how it will sound and how muc I can expect with the heads worked etc.

[pharmd]

Yes that is the cam.Well I know what they said it mad, I am more or less wondering how it will sound and how muc I can expect with the heads worked etc.

What's the ball park your setup is looking to cost you? I was considering this as well, but I don't know if things have been sorted out enough. Looks like we are still searching for the optimal head cam combo...

[Alvin]

That 111 LSA would make better mid range (I know that sounds backwards) than the 115.

If any of you guys are looking for a custom cam let me know.

[Juice]

These are videos of that cam in NorthernSS truck..he has aftermarket heads and SW LT's as well.

Dual Exhaust
http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e345/cmadams4/?action=view&current=MOV01101.flv

Single Exhaust
http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e345/cmadams4/?action=view&current=MOV01101.flv

[northernSS]

Yeah, that was a nice cam to get my fingers wet. But after awhile I was wishing I had gone bigger.

[Blindmelon]

I think people on here try to go too big on cam's & forget we need big torque numbers also HP numbers aren't as important as big torque from down low to mid for sure. Guys running smaller cams are going faster.

[JBrown]

If I were you, I would go with Saladbars cam for what you want... Obviously, by looking at his times, the thing works well...(and it has the chop your looking for)

It'll take some tuning to get it to comply with everything else, but once the tune is ironed out, that cam flat out RUNS...

[MyGoatBites]

111 LSA depending on the other specs of the cam is going to be really tough to get to idle in an 07. The idle is going to be really tough with no VE to adjust. I have a spec I would suggest and I can get it ground for you. Grinding in some advance is your friend.

[NJSS]

214/220 .559/.564 111.5 LSA this is the specs of the CAM. MYGOATBITES what are the suggestions you have. and how much for the cam that you are talking about. I am still a little ways from being ready for this. I am just trying to get a good idea of what I want to do.

[yfz450]

I'm going with Livernois' stage 1 cam and stage II heads. They're giving a great deal which includes installation

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product.phtml?p=1477&large=2
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product.phtml?p=1351

If you've seen the issue of GMHTP with the cylinder head shoot-out, Livernois ranked very well and has a top notch shop.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0701htp_cylinder_heads/index.html

[MikeG]

Not a bad package...how much is it with install?

Honestly if you are going to being paying that much I would step up to the stage 3 heads and stage 2 cam...but that is me.

[yfz450]

$5200 with Kooks headers and y-pipe, around $3650 w/out. If my heads are infact 243 castings, they'll give me $300 for my stock heads.

This link lists their package prices for the Vette and F-bodies. It's a touch cheaper for the TBSS at $5,200 otd.
http://motownmuscle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59390

I was thinking about the stage 2 cam but I keep hearing these things need good low end torque numbers. The stage 2 is going to give me more top end while sacrificing bottom end - that's my biggest concern with going up in cam. I keep hearing people are running quicker times with a smaller cam - is this true?

I'm open to suggestions - I have about 2 weeks before I pull the trigger....

[MikeG]

$5200 with Kooks headers and y-pipe, around $3650 w/out. If my heads are infact 243 castings, they'll give me $300 for my stock heads.

This link lists their package prices for the Vette and F-bodies. It's a touch cheaper for the TBSS at $5,200 otd.
http://motownmuscle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59390

I was thinking about the stage 2 cam but I keep hearing these things need good low end torque numbers. The stage 2 is going to give me more top end while sacrificing bottom end - that's my biggest concern with going up in cam. I keep hearing people are running quicker times with a smaller cam - is this true?

I'm open to suggestions - I have about 2 weeks before I pull the trigger....

Heads: 1400
Cam: 400
Kooks: 1200
Misc: 100
Total: 3100
So they are charging almost 2 grand in labor?

Dude, it is not that difficult. As long as you are not changing oil pump/timing chain or anything like that it is not that bad. Should take a good shop less than 10 hours, so that would be about $200/hr in labor. Does the price include tuning as well? If not you will have to add that in.

On another note...the running faster times with small cams statement. I have yet to see any times and dyno numbers/charts from anyone who went with a bigger cam. So I have nothing to reference it from. I will have dyno numbers/chart and possibly times tomorrow, if the trans holds up.

[JBrown]

I would go stage 1ish cam(tourque) with the highest level of porting on the heads... and after that headers will help ALOT..

[yfz450]

Heads: 1400
Cam: 400
Kooks: 1200
Misc: 100
Total: 3100
So they are charging almost 2 grand in labor?

Dude, it is not that difficult. As long as you are not changing oil pump/timing chain or anything like that it is not that bad. Should take a good shop less than 10 hours, so that would be about $200/hr in labor. Does the price include tuning as well? If not you will have to add that in.

On another note...the running faster times with small cams statement. I have yet to see any times and dyno numbers/charts from anyone who went with a bigger cam. So I have nothing to reference it from. I will have dyno numbers/chart and possibly times tomorrow, if the trans holds up.

Here's my list. Total quote was $3650
Stage II heads
Stage 1 or 2 cam - "Free"
Hardened pushrods
GM MLS head gaskets
Head bolts
JP Performance double roller timing chain
GM exhaust gaskets - "Free"
NGK TR6 spark plugs - "Free"
Oil filter - "Free"
Royal purple synthetic oil
Coolant - "Free"
Dyno Tune - "Free"
Flatbed pickup and delivery of vehicle (100 miles) - "Free"

My "others" add up to more than $100. I figure about $1200 - $1500 for labor.

[MyGoatBites]

214/220 .559/.564 111.5 LSA this is the specs of the CAM. MYGOATBITES what are the suggestions you have. and how much for the cam that you are talking about. I am still a little ways from being ready for this. I am just trying to get a good idea of what I want to do.

My question is what are you planning to accomplish with that cam. I think the idle will be miserable and it is going to run out of steam pretty early in the RPM range. I wouldn't go less than 113 LSA in these trucks and I would grind some advance in. It helps with the power band and idle. That cam is so close to stock, all you are doing in reducing the power band and wrecking the idle with it.

You can run very low 12's with a mid 220 duration cam. You need 6-8 degrees more duration on the exhaust side to make up for a poorly designed exhaust systems. 224/230 226/232 220/228 all are good choices. Set the lift in the .580 to .595 range so you can use 918 springs if you want. Anything more is not daily driver friendly. You can have a reliable daily driver as long as you make a smart cam choice

[MikeG]

Here's my list. Total quote was $3650
Stage II heads $1400
Stage 1 or 2 cam - "Free" $400
Hardened pushrods $100
GM MLS head gaskets $25
Head bolts $100
JP Performance double roller timing chain Waste of $$
GM exhaust gaskets - "Free" Reuse Stock
NGK TR6 spark plugs - "Free" $12
Oil filter - "Free" $5
Royal purple synthetic oil $50
Coolant - "Free" $10
Dyno Tune - "Free"
Flatbed pickup and delivery of vehicle (100 miles) - "Free"

My "others" add up to more than $100. I figure about $1200 - $1500 for labor.

Red Total is $2102

What year is your truck?

I will tell you first hand that the double roller is a waste and much more trouble than it is worth. If it even fits. I tried putting one of those on my truck and you don't want to know what kind of trouble it caused us. It was the same brand. Talking to some other people, there are only like two brands that work good and the JP is not one of them. I think RollerMaster is one. But a single roller is fine as the LS2 single roller is better than the old LS1 single rollers. If you have an 07 model, you will need a new 06 sprocket (GM part # 12586841 around $25 at the dealership)

[NJSS]

MYGOATBITES I am looking to get in the 400 range with the cam and heads. After that if i want more I will put spray on it. I am trying to find a cam that will give me low end torque and perform above everything else. But if it had a nice lope to it that would be even better. I am not going for a stealth cam at all. But I am doing this for performance then sound.

[Balistikss]

NJSS, from all the people i have talked to, i think you need more lift, and like mygoatbites said, a narrower LSA and some + timing ground into the cam. I wouldnt go crazy on the head porting either, you want high velocity for low end torque.

[Balistikss]

Also talked to Tony Mamo quite a few times before making my heads/cam selection (he developed the AFR 205 heads) and he said keeping duration within reason is going to be key for making these things move, so i wouldnt go into the 234+ range, but that is just from talking to everyone. We will see what my setup does late this month (hopefully)

[MKEngineer]

Stage II heads - ~$1250
Stage 1 or 2 cam - $400, any grind
Hardened pushrods - $100
GM MLS head gaskets - $40
Head bolts - $150 for ARPs
JP Performance double roller timing chain - Skip it
GM exhaust gaskets - $20
NGK TR6 spark plugs - $15
Oil filter - $5
Royal purple synthetic oil - $50
Coolant - $10
Dyno Tune - $500
Flatbed pickup and delivery of vehicle (100 miles) - IF you can't get it there on your own, I suppose this is a plus.

Total: ~$2500, not including the flatbed run. $1150+ is a bit more than I'd pay to have someone install the stuff, but it may be a good value when its a reputable company doing it.

Word though, I'm not a huge fan of their heads. They actually spec out around 230cc's. Heck just machining out the rocker-stud boss adds 6-7cc's on its own, and you're starting from a 212cc stock runner volume on the 243s. For that port volume there are a few other alternatives that give better flow numbers (all measured the same). Generally speaking, you want the maximum flow with the least port-volume ---> this equals port velocity which equals torque. And don't get only hung up on the peak flow #s....your valves spend a lot more time at the midlifts than it does at peak....

[NJSS]

Balistikss Definatly let me know the set up you go with and how it turns out. I have been into my motorcycles for too many years and then went to 4x4's. Most of this stuff I am trying to learn as I go. This whole CAM choice has me confused as hell. anyway thanks for the input.